aemsee

Crossing the wires 180 is exactly the same as pulling the dist and turning the rotor 180 and reinstalling it. Believe me, I have done it several times to ensure that I messed up the dist installation before pulling it.

I'm guilty of not knowing as well. Been busting arse at the new work location and sleeping. Wife told me about it tonight.

Is there any way that the engine got turned over while the chain was off? How did you line up the marks on the gears? If you think that it is 180 off and just want to check, don't pull the dist, just jump all the wires directly across from each other. Easy to put back if that isn't it. The best way to check for being off a tooth is to use an old dist cap and cut a window in it at the #1 terminal (on the side). With the #1 cyl at TDC, the tail of the rotor terminal should line up with the #1 terminal. You say you have spark and fuel. Seems like a timing issue, OR, if the engine got turned over by hand a few times, I have seen lifters bleed down enough to not fully open up the valves to get a motor to fire. Try pulling all the plugs, and using a good boost charger, or a good jump box, crank it over for a few minutes, in 15 or 20 second bursts, to try and build up oil pressure and get the lifters pumped back up. Worth a shot and only cost is time.

stick or auto?

It looks like an old Renault Le Sharro motorhome.

Stupid. Just stupid :nuts:

For what? The last time I use an oscilloscope... Well, let's just say I'm glad the AC systems on the helicopters (that do actually have them) are basically bomb-proof. I can't think of a time that I've needed one for automotive use. Nor for household use. Best way to check for hall effect cam and crank sensors, voltage spike on coils, injectors etc. The more you play with them, the more uses you find for them.

Just as an FYI. That clip doesn't do anything but hold the injector in the rail during assembly. The bolts holding the rail to the manifold are what keep the injectors in place.

Only thing worthwhile on that would be the oscilliscope feature.

For what you say you want the laptop for 30Gig HD is fine. I just picked up a copy of XP home off e-bay for $20 to slam a a used laptop. If ya want I can tell you who I got it from so you don't have to worry about bad software.

I agree with wallisek on the RAM and the PCMCIA card. I would keep the XP though. Mostly for the software support that is out there. 800Mhz is fairly low, but unless you are doing a lot of video stuff or games, you should be fine. Just be sure what the max RAM capacity is for the motherboard. Usually 1 Gig is max, even if there are two RAM slots. I certainly wouldn't hesitate to just throw another 256 stick in there if it has one stick and there is an open slot. XP usually runs just fine with 512. A 256 stick off e-bay is usually stupid cheap. Same with PCMCIA cards. I just had two new in package D-Link 108G cards on e-bay for $10 plus shipping and only one sold. I use the same exact card in one of my laptops, and it has better range than any of my other laptops with built in cards. I doubt that unit has an excess of USB slots anyhow. Those laptops are stupid expensive new.

The clicking relay thing bothers me. Does it click once with the key in the "run" position, or continue to click steady? I would triple check ALL the ground connections. Especially if it is a nice new PAINTED block.

Hitting those bumb's will do that :D . From what can be seen in the pic, looks like you might be running very little positive caster. Also check your control arm bushings.

Not a whole lot of shaking going on back there. Make sure it is HP reinforced and there is enough slack so that the engine vibrations don't do any damage. Putting a flare like whowey said is a very good idea. They also sell a clamp that is designed for trans and fuel hoses so that it won't cut in to the rubber like worm clamps do, but they are more expensive. I still think it is a bad idea to use rubber hose near the engine, but I'm getting out voted here. (and if you deadhead the fuel pump, it will probably put out more like 80 to 100 psi)

It wouldn't, unless he converted to MAF for fuel injection instead of speed/ density. Or if there is a massive exhaust leak at the manifold and it was pulling in exhaust gasses. I'm guessing that something got fixed coincidentally when the snorkle was changed.

sure, if your jeep is carbureted. The pressures in the EFI stuff is too high for rubber lines and worm clamps. This could be dangerous. Don't do it

Two weeks ago it was a 2500 Cummins, last week was a Hemi C AWD, this week it's a Commander and next week will be a Rubicon. After that...who knows?

absolutely

Hey Brent! Good to "see" ya :waving: I would check ALL cennections for the strater, at the starter and the main ground from the block to the battery. A voltage drop test is the best method. Any chance it could be the starter itself? How old is it? Something I have done in the past... If it is cranking slow, use a pair of jumper cables and run one from the positive post at the battery to the starter terminal. See if it cranks better, if not, then the positive connection is probably not the issue. Then do the same thing with it, but run it from the negative post to the housing of the starter, and try again. If it doesn't turn better with either of the cables hooked up, just recheck the jumper clamps to make sure they are well connected, and if so, it usually points to the starter. Redneck diagnosis at its best! I know you said you checked the cables at the battery, but did you pull them off and make sure you see shiny metal? I am amazed at how much resistance just a little patina of dull grey corrosion on a battery post has.

In the baskets is fine. I think I could reassenble an XJ/ MJ in my sleep after 15 yrs of working on them. :D

Depending upon how high you can get the vehicle off the ground using jack stands you will most likely need to drop the steering shaft at the gear box and the track bar ( easier, I think, at the axle end). You will want the stands under the frame so that the axle can hang as much as possible. Remove the bellhousing inspection cover as well. Do you know if the pan has been off before and the up graded gasket installed? If so, this will make your life, and that of those you love, much easier and happier. The original gasket will be miserable to remove. The main cap bolts are at least 3/4, maybe bigger. Being a 88 at least you won't need to deal with the stiffener plate. You MUST use a torque wrench. Getting it wrong would be catastrophic. You do not need to loosen any other main caps for the seal. With the cap off, use something blunt to move the RMS around the crank enough to grab it with some good pliers and roll it the rest of the way out. Make sure you do not use something that will score the crank surface. A small brass punch is best, but I don't know if you have one of those. Make sure you lightly oil the new RMS before installation, and make sure it is facing the right way. The lower is idiot proof, but the upper isn't (not implying you are an idiot. I have seen seasoned techs do this with 4.0 motors). Start the upper and try to push it around the crank and in. Sometimes you need to have someone turn the engine over by hand as you push on the seal. If you do this, be aware that you may have the upper bearing shell roll out if you turn it the wrong way. If you look at the bearing shell, there is a small lock/ locating tab keeping it from spinning. Start the seal on that side so if you need to turn the motor over you won't lose the bearing shell. Be fore-warned, if you roll the motor over, oil WILL come out from many places, going directly in to your eyes, nose and mouth. Safety glasses are a must here, and some cold beer is very good at getting the 40 weight taste out. There are two different size bolts holding the pan on. either 3/8 and 7/16 or 7/16 and 1/2. Can't remember which. A deep socket set is very useful as some of the bolts have studs for heads. Remember to mark your pan as to where these go as they retain trans cooler line bracket etc. If the pan is stuck on, try smacking the side of it with a large plastic or rubber hammer. The lips bend very easy. Get yourself some sort of adhesive to hold the new gasket in place as well. Try to get the one piece if you can. Much better gasket. :cheers:

One thing to look forward to, is that there is a fairly large turnover of employees at those places. You may find yourself moving up rapidly, especially since it seems that you actually WANT to work, unlike most. Hell, you may find yourself being offered a management position in a few months, either there or at another store.

That thing just sreams "put me out of my misery!". (where is CFC when you need it!)

I honestly lost a nights sleep thinking about this truck :nuts: . My wife thought there was some major life changing problem I was dealing with :D . The cash isn't really the problem. That is an exceptional price for that truck. It is the 20+ hrs there and back, and having to flat tow it back to boot. After my trips to Pitt and Cincy, we'll see how my back is doing to see if there is another long, strange trip left in it for this year :ack: . ( The trip to Cincy will be in the 2dr Rubicon. Ouch!) Hey Wildman, how about you go get it and I'll buy it from you? :clapping:

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=18053 Take a close look at the pictures. There is NO rust on this thing. The darn frame rails still have color on them!!!!!!! This thing needs to be put back together and saved! NOT PARTED OUT!!!!! I wish I was closer to Va. It would be mine. C'mon guys. 4.0, auto, 4x4, buckets, full console, A/C, tilt with cruise, floor shift. A paint job on this thing and you could flip it for $5000 easy. Everyone is on eliminator to fix up the 92 he found, but I hear nothing about this except for the vultures looking for scraps. :fs1: (sorry for the rant. just venting that I see my perfect truck, and it is out of reach)