aemsee

Yeah, I'm' sure you're right aemsee. Using factory parts you're relacing apples w. apples. Using aftermarket stuff like Wagner, even though the caliper has the same shell, who knows about the internal rubbers, piston, and spring rate? Anyhoo, it worked for me. But I still have that dayem squeel. Hopefully I'll receive that new caliper bracket from the Windman soon so I can try that........ Have you tried any of the anti squeal stuff? The BG stuff you put on the pad surface always worked well for me.

If the pistons are the same size, then they should exert equal pressure on the pads. Just because one caliper goes bad, say due to a torn boot, that doesn't automatically mean the other one is also bad. Will it hurt to do both? Absolutely not. I suppose in your case there may have been a difference between the aftermarket caliper and the original? To me that would be like a tech saying that because you have a bad left hub, you should do the right as well. As a dealership tech I changed plenty of calipers and wheel cylinders on one side only with no problems. But it was usually factory parts.

Hey-- did you score the rust free 87 with plow and 30 some thousand miles on it, for $1200 or best offer, from Rochester craigslist? I saw it late last night, and now it is gone!!

Thanks for making me pissed off today! :D

I need to get a different cell phone. My LG VX5400 gets no reception at my new work location. It is a Verizon account. Some of my students with Verizon get reception in the room though, so I know there is a signal. They were all the flip or slide phones with the qwerty keyboards. I really don't need that as I rarely text and like to keep my phone in my pocket often. Anyone with a Verizon acct recommend a phone with exceptional reception? I know some of you live out in the boonies :D , so what are you using?

OK, I disagree. Pads and rotors yes, but why the calipers? What is the reasoning for this one?

Having the center of the rotor terminal just past one is correct. What should line up is the trailing edge of the tail of the rotor. The outer part of the balancer on the original motor has most likely spun on the inner part. Not at all uncommon. That is why it is very important to verify TDC through the spark plug hole when setting up the dist. But since you didn't pull the original dist, (in the new motor), and are sure the crank or cam didn't turn when the chain was off, ign timing shouldn't be the issue. If it ran before the chain, it should run now. You say that there is fuel and spark. The only other thing is air, and it all needs to be getting these at the right times. The fuel we know isn't old. Are the plugs getting gas fouled? This could be caused by too much fuel, fuel getting sprayed at the wrong time, not enough air or too weak of a spark. You can pick up a spark tester from any parts store for just a few bucks. It plugs into a plug wire and makes the spark jump a measured gap to check strength. Not enough air? Back to my previous post about bled down lifters. I know you pooh poohed this, but I still recommend pulling all the plugs, probably changing the now gas filled oil in the crank case, disable the fuel pump and spinning the motor over using a jump box at least until the OP on the guage shows good pressure. Ideally you should pull the VC to verify oil coming up the push rods. To check the injectors you should use a NOID light to check to see if it is blinking. If it stays on all the time, your injectors are just staying open all the time. But you would have a ton of fuel in the crank case if this was the case. Another way to check for injector issues is to disable the fuel pump, make sure the plugs are not fouled, and spray some carb cleaner (O2 safe of course) in the TB and crank it over to see if it runs or at least sparks off. One last thought. Make sure the IAC isn't stuck in wide open mode. This would be like not having a choke on a carbed vehicle. Try throwing another TB on there if you have one. Good Luck. We are all pulling for ya!

Speed pro was designed to give less assist at highway speeds, and more assist at slower speeds. There is a control module under the dash that regulates it.

LOL a little but I just bought a J20 with a plow and a pto take off so I can hook up the snowblower from the tractor to the rear of it and move that snow no matter if I go front or back wards HHAAHAAAAA I want a video of that!!! :D

Don't worry about that grass. You'll be shoveling that yard soon enough! :D

I just remembered that I had a Linksys WAP54G access point in my cabinet full of computer parts :nuts: . So I just got done figuring out how to piggy back it off the Belkin router. See if that ends the wireless drop out. The biggest issue was trying to get to the web-based set up screen. Finally changed the belkin IP range to match the linksys. Gee, only spent about 3 hrs messing with it :ack: . Hope it does the trick! Thanks for all your input, guys.

how tough was that aw4 into the TJ swap? '

that 200' of cat5 gets to be a bit cumbersome at times :D

Range isn't a real issue. The problem is that the Belkin craps out and I need to reset it by unplugging the power cord and plugging it back in. Thanks for the info guys. I'll now see what I can get off fleabay.

Need to replace the POS Belkin I have. It keeps dropping out and has to be reset all the time. What are some of your recommendations? Thanks.

yes it is ingenious, and yes, you are a redneck!

nice pics. like the license plate!

Thanks for the pics. Beautiful car. Used to have a 69 Satellite. Just a 318 but it was bumble bee yellow with a black top. What a tank. Paid a cool $100 bucks for it (1982) with a broken torsion bar. For the life of me I cannot remember where it ended up :dunno: .

Have you ever posted up any pics of your Mopar?

Great buy. CJ's are way cooler than YJ's or TJ's, but they definitly aren't as civilized. Maybe your wife won't like it, and you'll be stuck driving it :D . Sheet metal isn't bad price wise. Here is a hood I found on craigslist here in Rochester. http://rochester.craigslist.org/pts/1374503694.html

And they are a fine pitch thread as well. Wildman probably has a couple dozen sets laying about :D

I would be interested as well. I've got a bumper design, but need frame brackets.

I got one from snap on. A long time ago though

You COULD have a bad converter that doesn't make the trans lurch or jump. The turbine spins the input shaft. The impeller is welded to the case. Only the fluid makes the impellor spin the turbine. You might want to pull a cooler line and fire it up for a minute to make sure the pump is working. No pump, no fluid to converter, trans no worky.

Then forget about the wires if you are sure. Usually off a tooth it will still fire. Don't pass off the bleed down lifters though. I have experienced it more than once. If the VC is still off, watch the amount that the valves move when you crank it.