Jeep Driver

Very nice!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-EXPORT-Parking-Light-Amber-Park-Turn-Signal-Lamp-PAIR-SET-1984-1996-XJ-MJ/282930534893?hash=item41dff959ed:g:00YAAOSwm3Ba17Yv

Maine.

It depends on what you are after. Below is a temporary battery, I don't want to let a $300 battery sit for a year. I'm already set up for a side post as I had a gel lying down before, I like side posts. 78s are 1 inch taller, otherwise pretty much the same. As for CCA, I will either go with Odyssey at 850 or XS at 1000. Both are around $300. I'm reading mixed reviews about Optima, I've had two of them and they were 'ok'. Here is Jegs group size chart- https://www.jegs.com/Sizecharts/bcigroup.html For $50..........at least I can start it now.

Whatever remnant is in that tube, it's got to come out. There is no stop in the tube.

If you put the axle back in without a bearing, you'll scare the shaft and ruin it. Did the original bearing come out in one piece? or many pieces? If many pieces, that is the original race of the bearing that is left in the tube.

Did you use a slide hammer to start with?

I thought the same. Agreed.

Group 78 is absolute perfection. I'll post pic tomorrow.

Axle housing FIRST, then the tube.

Post a pic of the axle housing. You MUST know what you have to know what bearing to buy.

Replace with brake line (steel), bend to fit. 3/16 IIRC.

BTW, NAPA Gold/Wix or Pure1 filter, NOTHING else. Well, I do use Mopar filter on the wife's XJ...............

https://www.jegs.com/i/Royal-Purple/831/11487-7K/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710567970&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=15769068431&CATCI=aud-194567928791:pla-194386106711&CATARGETID=230006180037474934&cadevice=c&gclid=CjwKCAjwxZnYBRAVEiwANMTRX4A8vxgemwrcWQxVXpnl1XYNpvm_6mfWre2pfyrhQa8xXVBQVKo2MxoC5CsQAvD_BwE It's also available at OReily's, you may have to ask for it, by the quart. And no, I'd not do as you describe, break-in oil for first EASY 500 miles then change.

I have a good memory..........but for names. Glad someone remembered who it was.

As to the connecting rods I paid for the Rod reconditioning service, pressing the piston on the rod was a part of the service Reconditioning includes cleaning bringing both bores back into spec checking and or replacing Rod bolts If I remember correctly I paid $80 total it was about $20 per rod As to the T case, even though I'm in my fifties I'm very capable, the days of laying in a pool of ATF and lumping transmissions on my chest are forever over, screw it, I use a jack.

I priced it some time back.........IIRC, about $600 by the time you're done.

There is a member here who's MJ fell on him after a stand broke. F'd him up pretty good. It's your life.

Go to stock interiors dot-com

All I did was plug the front port, eliminate the LSV, rear discs. Perfect. Don't know what everyone else is running in circles about? Once I install the Wilwoods...........? we'll see.

NAPA DJ6138

Here, not 4x but similar principle. If I were dead set on 8.8 for my truck, I'd find the housing and gears I want, then send off to a rear specialist and have it retubed with 9" ends, and have axles made. Set up for discs. Yeah, will cost about $800 or so, but once done, it's done. And you can correct that horrific off-set. Skip to about 5:00

This is not about the OP. Find any block to build........pull one out of thin air. How do you know it's not warped? How do you know the deck is parallel to the crank? Low end build, scat crank, cam, bearings, rings, pistons, gaskets, valve job, timing chain, oil pump........etc........ Easy $900 to $1200 in parts, not to mention time, effort, misc such as paint, plugs, wires............on and on...... And you won't pay $80 to resurface the deck????????? But you got a ruler and a feeler gauge, right? I don't live in the world of .0001, nor do you, so I pay someone who does. As to the link I posted, dude screwed the pooch, for the lack of communication with the machinist.