Jeep Driver

Thanks.

I get to be the first to say WOW, just WOW! That's nice. Speaking of $$$$, what did the paint cost you?

If you are asking if you can replace with one long cable, like any other non cruise truck? I don't see why not.

The elliptical shape allows for a greater range of movement. Yes, it's supposed to be that way. Yes, adjust your TB to center your axle, then adjust your steering to center afterwards.

That wire should complete the ground circuit all he has to do is touch it to ground in the bulb should light

Lastly- The point of this thread. I think for myself and I expect others to do so also, apparently this pisses off one or more people here.....how dare you think for yourself? In the vid below, in the intro KC states that he has not done a how-to vid because he 'pushes' his product to the limit. I understand completely what he means when he says 'push' product, I've been doing it for years. IOWs, you can do things with product that it was not necessarily designed for, extending the limits, not by the 'book'. This comes from years of experience, knowing what you can do and what you cannot do, and being able to clean up your mess when you make one, fixing your mistakes. Find the old curmudgeon, the old guy that's been at it for 30-40 years, the guy that's willing to answer your questions, who is willing to impart his years of knowledge and experience, someone who has actually done something in life. Experience and knowledge are rare commodities these days. And it's interesting to watch the BASF guy pitch his products.........and knowing that KC must think what a bunch of BS, but I suspect the product was free for grandpa's truck.The big Sata sign, yeah, I bet he get's his $1200 guns for free too.

I'll add this- You won't realize it until you take your interior panels out and actually compare them against each other just how different they are in color. My dash valance/knee panel was closer to taupe in color, the kick panel was closer to camel color and had an orange tint. Also, each panel will fade differently over the years, age, fade, dirt, cannot be color matched. Once he got the paint color close, somewhere in between the taupe and orange, I asked him to take the orange out...........IOWs the color I wound up with is neither of the two but a compromise. The color you see is closer to the taupe family and now that it's applied I like it much better. This should give me more options when I go to the upholster to have the seats done, I should have more color choices in the bone/taupe/tan family of color than in the camel-orange family. Point is- you have a lot more leeway when doing a custom color than when going to the rattle can rack at the AP store.

Yes, all three. The adhesion promoter is excellent, smells like nothing I've ever used before.......so it must work :P. I don't have a product number for you, Sherwin Williams basecoat, hardener added. And clean clean clean, then clean again. I cleaned these panels 4 times, then wiped down areas that I thought might cause problems with lacquer thinner. The brand Awesome is a dollar a bottle at Dollar General and is just that, awesome.

I just did it, ordered my gauges. These were my first choice, over a year ago, however, Speedhut does not do one-off customs. I then went to NVU, NVU agreed to make me a one piece custom panel/insert, a complete cluster to replace the stock cluster, they wrote me an estimate and I agreed. I called them twice last week to pay my deposit, they did not return my call. I've decide that I'll have to make my own insert panel. The two smaller gauges, AF and clock, will be mounted in the two side panels left and right of the cluster.

One last set of speakers. The 5.25" will interfere with the window crank. This left me the options of a smaller speaker (4") or going to electric with the crank/switch mechanism, the crank becomes the up and down switch. I still have to think about this one. The door panels will be covered with vinyl and carpet....at least that's the plan, the idea is to make the newer door panels look older. And thanks to a member here, I have a cluster to dissect. I'm ordering my new gauges, the panel that I have to recreate in aluminum is the black bezel.

I also repainted my grille and headlamp doors, below is the tailgate handle compared to body color. Handle is the same color as the grille.

The paint is basecoat, same as used on the exterior under clearcoat. The trick is to add hardener, same hardener as used with single stage and clearcoats. I used 2ml to about 8oz of paint/reducer. The hardener gives the paint a nice soft angular sheen. Hardener is not otherwise added to basecoats. Paint dries to the touch in about 5 minutes, can be handled safely in 10 minutes. This Bulldog really works, I used a scratchbrite between coats and could not scuff off the paint.

Don't hurt my feelings.

And further............ Is this not the BS forum? Is this not where anyone can post whatever? Why are you questioning me? Does it not have a part number or a shop manual reference? Your $#!& gets old. Maybe you need a new hobby?

It's how people speak. Some things are not worth typing..........rambling, continuation of though, I expect you to know where I'm going with it. And, I'm really shocked at your line questions, at your lack of thought and curiosity. Do you know how paint is tinted? So, lets assume that Wayne is close to what I call Camel color of my interior but the color has a pink hue/shade, do you know what color tint is used to cancel out the pink? That's how it works, you not only add color but you cancel out color. And you are not the least bit curious. Not mention that most men, if not 99% of men, if they are not color blind, they are certainly blind to shades of hues (such as a shade of pink or a shade of green). Generally, I'm in awe of people who can do things that I cannot do. Apparently, you are not, wonder if you give anyone credit for anything?

It's called- Planting the Seed of Curiosity. I know it's a foreign concept to most people these days, curiosity. I'm trying to encourage the rattle-canners to step outside themselves. I'm also pointing to, differentiating from, the knuckle dragger that pushes a button on the tint machine and that of a professional whom I consider an artist. Since most people's experience with tinting product is walking into a Home Gimpo and ......................... And, since there was a recent inquiry regarding staining/painting interior bits.................. I also intended to post pics of a couple of panels I'm spraying today. ...........since you had to ask..................

I've applied product for years, home and industrial. This isn't my first go-round with automotive but I'm no expert. I do know a good tint man when I meet him, they are few and far between. Color matching my interior bits from scratch. He knows his $#!& and this is how it's done. He also tinted my paint from scratch back when I stripped down and repainted my little Kubota.

No. One will have nothing to do with the other.

Yep.

Never been to PA. Would love to go but have other commitments that weekend.

Synergy.

Danish Oil is a very light oil, nothing heavy like a tung oil, actually it's very similar to a rubbing poly. It dries in about an hour, cures out in about 24 hours. I'm not trying to sell you on it. The only reason I mentioned it- Danish oil has to be reapplied about once a year to maintain it's finish, it does not last forever. Also, you don't like it, give it a couple of days and you can poly over it. It's a step that can be taken before you poly, once you poly........that's it, you're stuck with it. As for wood preservation, it's an art that I'm not into, there are waxes, vegetable based products......etc...... Anything that is auto related, vintage, nostalgic, is very cool, I like it, that said- These stake bed signs have no real value, yeah, someone might give a couple hundred bucks for it, but, it's not Washington's rocker. You an do whatever you want with it, just know that you have to live with the result. Like trying to help someone here with an electrical problem.......go round and round.......yet, if I could just get my hands on it I could figure it out in short order. Some things one just intuitively knows once he gets his hands on it. Below is an outdoor kitchen that I build over the winter, I made the mistake of allowing the homeowner and the contractor determine what finish I applied to the walnut BB top I made. Next week I'm going back to strip down and refinish the top. Live and learn. Point is, do nothing that cannot be undone. After 30 years of this $#!&......like I said, if I had my hands on it, could study it, I'd know what to do.

This word 'poly' is thrown around in the abstract. Just curious? One one hand you say no to oil, on the other hand you say apply poly. What do you think poly is? Tom was close. Two forms of polyurethane, oil-based or waterborne, even the waterborne is going to be 'oil-modified'. However, waterborne is not 'high build', even after several coats you'll have an uneven finish. Solvent based or oil based products attack the substrate, the chemicals break down or melt the finish they are applied to, this is how poly adheres, just so you know. Just know that whatever you apply.........you can never get back the original finish. Any varnish, and some polys, will yellow or amber out on you in a few months, especially in the sun. Clear by the responses here that none of you know what Danish Oil is or have ever used it. If it were me, I'd hang it on the garage way and enjoy, just the way it is.