Jeep Driver

I measured my stock uppers and lowers and adjusted accordingly, the first time. The second time, I pushed the arms out 5/8", much better. You could go 3/4" past stock and it'll be fine.

Check the slides for the brake pads they will wear in an indention get stuck there and not relax The way to fix is fill with weld

Thank you.

Yet, another set of speakers, these are lower end coaxials, but now I have options. I'll be painting the interior panels soon, I want to get the fitting out of the way.

My headliner was in pretty bad shape the first time I recovered it. I applied a sealer to it and I though that the foam would hide the imperfections, it didn't. I sealed it again and tried to use filler to smooth it out, that didn't work either, there were small areas that had blistered. I slit those areas and used a syringe to inject resin. I then went ahead and glassed the inside too. The backside is now completely glassed. I'll trim this and clean it up a bit tomorrow, I'll then use body filler to smooth it out.

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Hopkins/HM48470.html This is nice.

No. Do you need 7pin? If not, a flat plug is all you need, under $10 anywhere. 7pin is nice, but you can get a plug for about $15.

Is it in the switch? in the column? Or somewhere else, that's what you need to find out.

Drop your column again. With a test light, run the switch through each position. Back probe each connector and see what is happening at the switch. Red- power in. Brown- accessory. Orange- run. Yellow- ignition. Green- starter. Other two wires are to ground, bulb check, ignore. I may have the orange and yellow backwards, don't remember, however, both must be hot during start and run positions.

Scrambler

Newer stock pumps have an impeller that looks just like the Flowcooler impeller.................IIRC.

A shot of gas or ether will tell you immediately. Did you replace the CPS?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-250-5364?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-wilwood-disc-brakes&gclid=Cj0KCQjwl7nYBRCwARIsAL7O7dHHFZmK5gAJhn6dzUE-eT6X83sKYQXB9ElDxWusUW0BUAiizbFPq1gaAqhkEALw_wcB This is the way to go, IMO. Those with 8.8s could easily set this up with the 9" conversion ends. I can foresee countless situations whereas a handbrake would be the $#!&. Not just a parking brake. Managing a steep incline while working a clutch, for one. No, not cheap, but worth the effort. And yes, hydraulic over mechanical? hydraulic.

For those of us who have gone discs with the mini drum in the rotor...........they SUCK! Those cannot be trusted.

I cannot imagine why it's flexing at all?

I'll eventually do the same but with dedicated calipers. T'ing into the existing line? no.

Those are very specific shoulder bolts the head is 11 mm and I don't think it's quarter 20 thread

https://cart.bilsteinus.com/results?custom=Custom Light Truck&typeId=131692157456791104

Most of the shocks you find will have a 9" stroke. I took a static measurement, then found a shock that was at half stroke (4.5") at my static measurement. Both eyelets are 5/8, others will say 9/16, 5/8 is fine. Find a shock chart and start comparing. I'm running Bilsteins. Good shocks will cost you, butt cramp or not. And no, you won't find MJ shocks listed anywhere (lifted), you'll need to find them on your own.

Got another set of German made MB Quart, this time 6x9. Yes, I'll have some cutting to do, on the B-pillar too. Just sitting in the hole....... Mechless, light, small, no flashing lights, no extra buttons, no BS. And it's water proof. Deep river anyone??? kidding. And back to the headliner again, this time I'll get it right, I hope.

You can relocate it, many of us have. I made a new one and moved it.

That part I don't have.

Are you talking about the purge solenoid/valve?

You ain't going to touch that 7 piece Makita kit for 399 either

Two pieces of 3/4 metal conduit. Use a vise or BFH and flatten each end. Drill 3/8 hole at each end. Attach one end to tie-down eyelet, use a fender washer or plate on the other side of eyelet. Attach other end to box, drill hole through the box. Conduit will be cut to length, length will depend on where you want it to land on the box. Both sides. This will keep the box from sliding, keep it from a quick-grab thief. Will do no damage to your bed. Or- I have a very nice newish DeeZee box, black, diamond plate, with keys, that is a perfect fit for the MJ. I was going to put it on CL for $200, I paid $435 not long before I parked the MJ, I will not mount it again. It's yours for $100...........you are not that far away. LMK