Jeep Driver

What gear ratio? No, the knuckles and brakes are not the same. Your '86 knuckles are valuable, do not discard those. As stated, from now on you will purchase brakes and unit bearings for a '98. Everything else is the same, steering and ball joints and tie rod ends.....etc....... Also your '98 axle shafts will interchange but ujoint size is larger.

OP, I learned to do Ujoints using a simple C-clamp. You will not destroy anything with the limited strength of your wrist. Vid provided here, I cringe when I see people beating $#!& to death with a hammer........do not beat anything to death. You are correct, this is a most important lesson, be gentle, force nothing. You need a die grinder and flap wheel.......if you don't have one, use a Dremel, if you don't have one of those, buy one. And you don't' want to remove material, just clean and polish. I have a 20T press, I use it but I also know when to back off, take a look, if something isn't right, I stop and make it right.

242 never came behind the AX5........that I know of. Input shafts will not be the same. 21 vs 23 spline. OP, find a 231, for the AX, that's about your only affordable option. Are you having a hard time finding one?

It even says 0 downloads. still nothing.

Nothing there.

I'm wondering if the ears of you stub shaft are bent now? U joints don't take a lot of pressure to press in. A lot of guys use a vice or a hammer.

The alt is just as important as- Wiring Fans Radiator Sender/switch Battery It's all important. I'm guessing- sitting in traffic on a rainy night with AC on.......... He'll tax his electrical system to about 115-125 amps.........lights, radio, amp, aux lights........whatever else he has running. He could get by with a 140 alt. The 95 amp alt will not keep up, not even close. Not to mention the one I recommended will out perform the stock alt at idle. At idle it's capable of putting out more amps than the stock is at full-tilt. There's a reason he got a rad with three fans cheap......wanna guess what that reason is? Those cheap fans will draw better than 40 amps each at start up........continuous draw will be close to 25amps. And he'll run hot anyway. Big picture.

500 miles of normal mixed driving. Don't even think about it. The only restriction is pulling a trailer which doesn't apply to you anyway.

There is no area on a proper filler panel that would be flat.......it's entirely round. A flush mount light will not work.

Got to get away from the Jeep style radiator. Spal fans. Guys who go to V8 radiators........I'm not hearing any complaints from them.

If you are going to bother........ Why not be creative? Also, are you going to match the multiple radii? If not it will look cheap and you'll be unsuccessful.

No they're not. That's not what's happening.

For those of who need to shim out for the Wilwoods, you can use thick washers to make up the 1/8" spacer. You won't have enough of the provided shim anyway.

That's a mistake. Your cooling system needs to be mindless, build it and forget it. I'm typing this not just for you but for anyone who may read this. You are building a cooling system. E-fans get a bad rap because most people who go E-fans fail to build a cooling system which works. Each fan must have it's own relay. Wires from relays to fans should be no longer than 24". I'm posting this as an example, I'm not suggesting you buy this, do your own homework- https://www.ebay.com/itm/123916172594?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&var=424997860739 That is an ON delay relay. You can use- Fan 1 - standard no delay relay Fan 2 - 5 second ON delay relay Fan 3 - 10 second ON delay relay Sender from water neck will have a neg wire. Neg wire to trigger main relay. Main relay triggers three fan relays. You will need two standard relays and two delay relays. You have now created a sequential three fan system. Fan (1) will come on immediately upon reaching 180 degrees. Followed by fan (2) 5 seconds later, followed by fan (3) 10 seconds later. Bonus thought- You can piggyback the Main relay (double pole) to a second Main relay with a 3 minute OFF delay. When you turn the truck off the second Main relay is then triggered for three minutes to continue cooling after the engine is shut off. Eliminating heat soak.

I did. I wanted to clean and seal and paint the channel as I was painting the truck. It's been done both ways.

It's too bad you don't have a catalog. You have a simple GM 1 wire alt with a 6 rib serpentine pulley. You need to look and measure yours to know which one will fit. You can get a 165amp alt, you just need the correct part number to order it. Never talk to the idiots at Jegs or Summit, they don't know what they don't know and they don't know that they know very little. You left out of the equation your battery, the battery is the ballast of your electrical system. I saw your build page.......three fans...... The only fans I would ever use are Spal. How you wire your fans......controller? all at once or sequential or soft-start? it all matters. It matters when your fans come on, at 180 and get ahead of the heat or at 220 when it's too late? Anyway, below are a few pages of the catalog.

Scroll down through my first page.

Do your homework- https://www.driven2automotive.com/blog/spot-fake-walbro-gss342-fuel-pumps-2017-18/ Chances are your existing pump can provide flow but not pressure at peak flow. Consider something like this- https://www.jegs.com/i/FITech-Fuel-Injection/546/50004/10002/-1 What I will likely do is use a 12gal cell in the bed, use the existing stock pump to keep the cell replenished, this gains me additional volume and opens the door to a variety of pump choices. Either way, neither of us will get out cheaply. I've not decided entirely what I will do about fuel until the time comes but I've looked around in the past and those who went the cheap route...frame mounted, external pumps, have nothing but headaches. If you want frame mounted pump you will be in the $800 neighborhood for one that works (with regulator)........or at least one you don't have to replace every three months and one which won't leave you stranded.

Hawaii?

This is a small case unit for a 2.5

Do you want quality? You should have a CS130, you can get those up to 165amp with 100amp at idle.........that's at idle! Call them. http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/

The DS is the only thing keeping your axle from doing a somersault. Leave it be. Just find a hole in the frame for one end of the strap and the other end to a bolt at the upper CA mount.

Skip to 4:30 As I said, power is made at the head. Ford 300

I have not done the passenger side yet.

Ratchet strap. I guess the old dogs ain't teaching the pups much anymore. Use a ratchet strap to pull the axle around to the rear, get one bolt through then work the other side. You can also use a floor jack to manipulate the axle.