Jeep Driver

As far as I know, the ratios for gears 1 thru 4 are identical. The only difference is that the 5-speed has 5 speeds. I would just swap the bellhousings and use the 4WD setup. Some guys here report that the 4 speed will come with 3.55 ratio rears whereas the 5 speed comes with 4.10s and claim the gear box ratios are different. I have no experience with the AX4......so I'm just going by what I read. Moot anyway as both of his are AX4s....somehow I missed that. But he claims that the 4X trans as water in it. OP, Mine did too when I got it. Drain the fluid and inspect........I got 40K miles out of mine before I swapped to a different AX5.

If I'm not mistaken the main shaft is different and the short answer is no. Also, the ratios are different between the 4 and the 5. I suppose you could combine the two if you knew what you were doing........swapping internals.

The ZJ has a left and right cable, they are different. I should have gotten 2 of the passenger side or right side cables.

I have no pics of the brake shoes......sorry. But all parts are stock to the Liberty brakes. The cables I used were ZJ cables.....forget the year......96 I think. The passenger side is correct for both sides, I need to swap the drivers side out eventually. My parking brakes work fine. As I recall there is not much to them....two keeper springs for the shoes....two tension springs.......and the adjuster. I have no idea what 'kit' you have but I'd suggest stock parts.

Any double shears for no lift that you guys would recommend?

Also want to mention- The 94+ factory masters have TWO plungers/O-rings on the shaft the comes out of the back of the master, the after markets have only one plunger. Also, the plastic eye that connects to the clutch pedal lever will have to be drilled out as it is too small. I went through three after market masters, all of them leaked, I then realized with the help of another member here who had the same problem, that you have to make a slight bend in the shaft just after the eye. As the shaft enters the master at an angle and with only one plunger it will leak, the bend makes the shaft go in and out of the master more in line with the bore of the master and the plunger stays true to the bore.

Same thing happened when my master went out. It did not happen all at once, over time it became more difficult to shift, just as you describe.

Some header companies do not pay attention to flange thickness. You'll find threads/posts here and elsewhere whereas the installer had to back-cut the washer so that the washer placed equal pressure and sat flat against the header flange and intake.

Had your filter caught some sediment or debris, flipping it around and allowing the flow to reverse could have flushed out that sediment to the injector.

This way.......maybe. But according to others this is backwards. Also, when installed this way you cannot get a grease gun to the zerk.

I have them on my truck and there is no difference in ride height. You asked, I answered. And BS on the distance of the holes and the shape as it relates to height. If the shackle hanged STRAIGHT up and down, one inch in length translates to one inch in hight, however, the boomerang shape allows the eye of the spring to move further back on the truck......that was the point I was trying to make that you missed. The one inch is canceled out by the new position of the eye of the spring.

Yeah, there is a ground cable to the engine block.....from the engine head to the firewall.

yea it will crank over after sitting all day but after that it won't crank at all Check your grounds and cables.......after that I'd be looking at the starter. Also, there may be, should be, a starter relay, these are on the passenger side fender well right behind the battery. Could be bad.

crank position sensor? correct, and where is it located? From the driver's position- It is about 10:30 on the bell housing where is mates with the engine, two wires with a plug at the end. Plug is just behind the TBI.

If it won't turn over for a couple of hours- it's the starter. If it turns over but will not start.......see the above post. Assuming it is TBI.

Well, guess I'm the guinea pig. Just ordered.

I have no words of wisdom but it sounds like you are on the right track. I assume along with the Camaro clutch you will use a Camaro flywheel?

You PM'd me, I'll answer you here- You get no lift from the JKS shackle. Eventhough it is 1" longer, because of it's shape and the way it's installed, the overall height remains the same. The extra length will run parallel to the spring, not perpendicular.

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/afe-power-twisted-steel-headers-afe48-46206.html Anyone running AFE headers and can attest to the quality? Morris 4x4 is offering 10% off today only and that brings the price down to $314 shipped, so I really need to order tonight. I was also considering the Banks, however, I emailed them some time back and they were less than helpful. I also get the feeling that Banks is somewhat overrated. AFE also produces the 4.0 header, little pricey at $569 though. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

OK. I'm not here to argue with you but you are not the only one here and others get ideas from what is posted. You OP states that you want to run 35s with 3" of lift.......ain't gonna happen. You also state you have a pile of axles to choose from. The only one that makes sense is the Ford 9", but then you are not going to use factory wheels anyway since you need 10" wheels. So you are going full width? And you already have the wheels and tires? What pattern? Because the GM and Ford/Jeep patterns are different, mix and match? Wheels and tires alone will cost you $1800. And I'm assuming all your axles are matching with lockers? And the front axle is Jeep ready? Guess you already have the XJ donor too?........that's $500 right there........if you can find a good one for the front clip and seats....dash .....etc.. Guess you got at pile of control arms and adjustable track bars? Minimum $600 there....... Must be nice to have piles and piles of parts that others have a hard time finding or affording. Yeah, forget about body work and paint, hell, some guys here either rattle can or......yes, I've seen it, got a brush and a gallon of house paint. Flares alone will cost you $450.......but why bother with that, right? From a personal perspective- At least 1-2 guys a month come up to me in a parking lot and ask me if I know someone with a MJ for sale that has not be beat-up or cut-up or is not $6-7K. Why? because there are not many left and guys like you buy them and hack them up. It is yours though, do as you will. This is a perfect example- 33s on 6" of lift. $13K invested.......and that sounds about right. http://nwga.craigslist.org/cto/4641178830.html I'm sure I'm not the only one that wants to see this $2000 build, please post it up.

No. And there is a change from TBI and MPI, either the mounts/brackets are different or the pulleys are different. Either way I'm about to find out myself as I'm converting a MPI intake to TBI on my engine build. And there is a third change after 96-97. Also, the serpentine or V-belts are different in the early years......depending on what you have or get. Just be aware......you may have to change pulleys.

There are three groups of guys here- Kids, who do what kids do. Hacks, who cobble crap together. And men, mechanics who do with best with the talents they possess and the most of what they can afford. (yeah, I'm sure I pissed some folks off) Your post may have been somewhat misleading to me then- you say this is for your wife. I'm a fairly good judge of costs and I shop regularly. 8.25 swap done as cheaply as possible. New bushings in springs KJ discs JKS shackles Sway bar Lube, paint, bearings, seals, replacement axle, consumables.....etc.....brake lines....U-bolts....... $800 on the conservative side. Image Not Found I'm in the middle of my engine build- I'm at $1900 and change and I have yet to buy my paint, header, and roller rockers........$2,500++ total. [url=Image Not Found[/url ]

I'm not a 'lift' guy....can't help you there. However, first thing that occurred to me was- can't see how you are going to run 35s with 3" of lift and not cut your fenders out or retain anything like stock right quality. As for cost? I paid nearly $265 just for my Bilsteins. Ain't nothin' cheap about what you want to accomplish. $6-7K minimum.

I'm looking for the 'correct' engine color based on my personal tastes and I'd like to keep in in the Mopar family. As chrome and polished aluminum are not available for the 2.5 (limited for the 4.0 also) the engine will be two-tone with the block one color and the covers the second color. Wife has directed me to the turquoise scheme and in the end the engine will be some version of the Chrysler Blue. Below is pic of my original choice, with the block being Manhattan Blue the the covers Sea Water Teal, but after receiving the swatches, I'm back to my search. Any of you guys done a tasteful two-tone? any pics? This is not a rattle can job and the urethane paint will cost me well over $100, so, no mistakes on this one.