Jeep Driver

Read- http://www.federalmogulmp.com/en-US/Technical/Documents/How%20To%20Prevent%20Head%20Gasket%20Failure%20-%20Low%20Clamping%20Force.pdf A bolt will lose more than 50% of it's clamping force when reused, interesting read on Ubolts here- see second page. http://www.suspensionspecialists.com/techinfo/Ubolt_Information.pdf

Since you have a CPS on an '86, I assume you have a 2.5? Last time that similar thing happened to me it was the fuel pump relay.

Image Not Found

From the x-member back, no cat, local shop charged me $180 labor and material- how much more freakn' cheap do you want?????? All WELDED! I don't like it and it will get replaced after I get the new engine installed but that's a different matter, still, it was well done.......and CHEAP! Image Not Found

They are not pricey, $24 at Summit, call them if you cannot find it online. Order the ones for a '97 and you'll get the 12 point bolts. Or you can get a set for the 4.0, same bolts just more of them. No, do not reuse 25 year old bolts.

Correct. He had a catastrophic bearing and bearing retainer failure.

http://www.generalspringkc.com/SearchResults.asp?searching=Y&custom=1&show=50&page=1&f-Comanche=2531&f-Jeep=2143&f-1988=2907

There is a reason for X-pipes or H-pipes you'll find on just about every performance exhaust on V8s, to balance the pressures from the left bank to the right bank. Also has to do with the scavenging effect....positive and negative pulses........way beyond my pay grade but I do understand the basics. Also, go look at the amount of space you have at the x-member......now.......imagine squeezing two 2 1/4" pipes through there....imagine two pipes bent perfectly from the header THROUGH the chassis and x-member perfectly as to not rattle or put stress on the header. To get that right......you'll need to find a REAL speed shop that specializes in performance exhausts......and that'll probably run you about $800 or more. Keep it simple, balance the front three cylinders with the back three.

I would go 2-1 at the header and then 1-2 after the x-member. And it's dual, unless you are expecting a gun fight.

Just cuz it's free doesn't make it a good deal. I'd go with a 8.8. Sucks tracking down disc brake parts and the parts are NOT cheap. 8.8s can be had from $50-250 complete. He's running a SBC 350. Yeah yeah yeah.......I know. I'd still go with a bigger axle..........in his case this is likely a good move.

Yep, all the above. I use mineral spirits in a cup gun and use it like a mini pressure washer. I also use Gunk Original. Dollar General sells a product called Awesome that is $1 per spray bottle.....works great......you can't even buy a spray bottle for a dollar.....

$230 per side in 2011, don't know the prices now. Thanks, that's reasonable.

The other guys have you covered....I'll add........ I'd only have someone with a jig weld up one for me, I found a company in Nashville several months ago when I was considering a similar axle. I just went with the 1 1/4" spacers for the rear.......if you need to you can take this into account when you narrow and bypass the spacers......nice thing about a custom axle. I'd also have them consider rear disc before they weld up the Ford flanges.....may be able to accommodate KJ or other discs.

How much did they run you? I scanned their site, quote only.

Not to be a sourpuss.....but.......$100 shipping just took me out of the market for metric set. And why do you not have a standard set with no lift?

I made mine. They sell them on ebay.

?

Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found And plug the vacuum line to it also. And my vapor can hits the trash next week too as soon as my vented gas cap comes.

Also wanted to add this- Motorcycle days....way back then...... I went to a full exhaust and K&N intake. The guys I rode with told me- "lean makes horsepower, leave the carbs alone". My power band completely changed, 6K rpm on through 9K rmp....grab a handful and hang on..... but above 9K? complete fade....nothing. Re-jet my carbs and even though I lost that quick twist....I regained my pull right on through 12K. There is a member here who claims that he had a 2.5" full exhaust installed on his MJ, he says that his power loss was so significant that he immediately turned around and had the new exhaust removed and another new 2.25 exhaust installed. If you free-flow the exhaust side and do nothing to increase your intake side....give no consideration to fuel supply....what the hell does one expect? Free-flow the exhaust and restrict the intake, starve it of fuel.....yeah, sure you'll lose power.

I made up this exhaust for a project that I was working on a few years ago. Before I clamped the tubes onto the manifolds I started the engine up and attempted to hold the tubes on by hand, I was all I could do to hold them on and I'm no sissy. The point is- it doesn't take much to create back-pressure, anyone who says otherwise is full of $#!&. I'm no expert and I don't claim to be but I do know this- there are intake pulses and exhaust pulses, disrupt one side or the other and you will lose performance, horsepower, torque, or both. A full exhaust, all the way to the rear bumper, will have back-pressure, cat or no cat.

I look each time I go to the PnP, most are worse than mine.

Ordered, I'll let you all know how they fit. Also ordered my carpet from Stock Interiors :)

But you didn't say anything?

Excellent! Very nice. How about selling me your engine mount brackets off the 2.5?