Jeep Driver

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f135/high-performance-aluminum-intake-manifold-for-carbureted-2-5-a-185423.html There is an old ad, someone was selling a used Clifford intake.

Does Clifford offer a manifold for the 2.5L? I thought of them, too, but I was just on Clifford's web site and the only parts I saw for the 2.5L were camshaft kits. Did I overlook something I should know about? They used to offer the carb intake and headers.......no longer.

AMC/JEEP 2.5L 4 CYLINDER 47-0025 CAST DISHED 264H, 272H $799.00 Above is the only listing Clifford shows for the 2.5, they are not making the intake anymore. http://www.cliffordperformance.net/index.html

http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Tuning-and-Troubleshooting-the-2.5L-Jeep-TBI-Four.html Something you might want to look at.

The short answer is, no. ECU that runs a single injector will not run dual injectors. Renix ECU cannot be remapped. Otherwise you could simply use a Clifford intake and a two barrel TBI off a SBC.....you cannot. You could spend about $800-$1000 on a pair of Webers. Have some machine shop custom mill you a pair of billet long runner intakes...that might run you about $2000. Pay a specialty shop to sync them.....another $300 Go find a mechanical distributor out of an old 258 and see if you can cobble up something with a points ignition or you'll have to go aftermarket all together and I have no idea who makes a stand alone aftermarket ignition system for the 2.5. After you spend $3-4K.........let us know how it works out.

About $200

Cut off 1" of an allen wrench, 1/4". That was the reason I swapped mine out. Nothing like spending more time taking out 4 bolts of the DS than removing the entire transmission. My front DS bolts are now at my rear DS. Image Not Found

Blend door is operated by vacuum, check the lines.

I fixed mine too......gone. Got $50 for it on ebay.

What's the cost of a trans mount???? $12 or so? I'd start there.

I take it you do not have the pipe? to make a plug with?- Image Not Found You can take the EGR off and make a blank for it- Image Not Found Or you can order a new pipe and EGR. I would not think that gas should be coming out of that hole though......but 4.0 intakes may be different than the 2.5 in the way the EGR is set up.

How does it even run? or does it?

I forget the size but I used regular allen head cap screws. 5/16 24 x 1 1/4 ...something like that.

Did the Goodyears come from Walmart? If they did.......so did mine and I took them back. They suck. Image Not Found

The two boots came today, the smaller will not work with the TC shifter. Back to the drawing board. Going with homemade leather boots.......if I can get the wife to sew.

It's 28 degrees here this morning. I turned the key twice without touching the throttle, both times it fired right up but died, third time I just barely cracked the throttle and it fired up and stayed running, ICM took over. Most days I can reach in and start it without my foot on the throttle (this after I replaced my ICM).

Image Not Found As you will see here, just to the left of my thumb, the idle control motor. I guarantee you that yours does not work or does not work properly. My engine has always started up on a cold morning, even before I replaced the ICM. 4-5 revolutions, feather the throttle twice....starts right up.....feather the throttle two more times and let it warm up for 5 minutes....good to go. The ICM never worked from the day I bought the truck, I manually adjusted the idle at the adjustment screw at the end of the push rod, set at around 750rpm, engine ran smooth at idle. When I replaced the AC compressor and got my AC working I wanted it to idle up as it's supposed to, so, I replaced the ICM. You will not find one listed for the Comanche, you'll need to get one for a '84 Cadillac. Once replaced, I thought I would be able to do the same as before, set the idle...doesn't work that way. No matter where I set the screw the idle returned to the same spot, low, around 250-300 rpm, this is where I discovered I had a mechanical problem but that's another matter. Originally, I thought the ICM only bumped up the idle 2-300rpm when the AC came on to compensate for the drag. I was confounded as to why I could not set the idle to a fixed rpm until I realized that the ECU takes the readings of the TPS and the MAP and likely reads the rpm to continually signal the ICM to adjust idle rpm. FWIW- Most of my OE vacuum lines are gone. Once my new engine is installed the only vacuum that will be connected is- brake booster, MAP, PCV to VC, and one line to the heater control.....I'm considering even getting rid of the vacuum ball if the heater control works without it. As a side note and probably unrelated- Saturday night I cut out the vent line to the charcoal canister and replaced my canister with a homemade unit at the tank, I also replaced the lines to the new canister. My idle bumped up to around 600rpm and has smoothed out a little. I still have low compression and a miss at idle but idle does seem a little stronger now. I'm wondering....convinced.......that the vent line was clogged and not venting at all. My next move will be to cut out the C101 connector and I have an expectation that my idle will improve again. To answer your question- You'll need to consider ICM, TPS, MAP, temp sensors, electrical, EGR........basically the entire system if you want to fix this problem. My new engine has a new NOS TBI on it with factory TPS and ICM......at that time I will dig further into.....spend more time fine tuning my idle.

I'm using two separate boots and I'm making my own single trim that will connect the two boots. That's my plan anyway. core-shifters Items 1 NV231 transfer case shifter shift knob BLACK 1987-1995 YJ Jeep Wrangler 3/8"-16 @ $25.19 = $25.19 1 Hurst Chrome Short Shifter Stick 5387201 w/ hardware & boot support grommet @ $46.69 = $46.69 Sub-Total: $71.88 Email Chris at Coreshifters and ask him to send you the Hurst stick PDF. That short stick will not work with the console. If you want to modify one to work you'll need a longer one and go deeper into the mechanism and weld it up. I did not care as mine will be covered by the boot. The stick vs the OE shifter- Feels much better than lifting and pulling up and back.....stick feels correct. Now that I've spent the day driving with the Core/Hurst.......could not imagine going back, no way.

Apparently you are not programed to receive. The ignition system is signaled by the tone ring on the fly wheel, the CPS is mounted to the AMC/Jeep/Chrysler bell housing. Just because a GM trans will bolt up does not mean you can use it unless you go to an aftermarket ignition. What is so difficult about that that you cannot understand?

All I can say is- Wow! Shifts great! New boots and carpet on the way. Crappy night pics- Image Not Found

Crappy night time pics, but the Core/Hurst short shifter is the $#!&. :) New carpet and boots are on the way. Image Not Found

http://comancheclub.com/topic/45526-before-and-after/ See above. I did not change the compression ratio in my engine and I expect to run 87 octane as I am now. Torque is what I'm after, not necessarily horse power. I have every expectation that my engine will fall away above 4K rpm as I retained the TBI. My truck is a daily driver, I cannot afford for it to sit idle in front of my garage while I mock-up and wait on parts...etc. Going V8 has it's own challenges and costs. For example- the thread posted above, the builder is building a 2WD street driven truck, if for off-road he'll need a stand-alone injection system from a GM engine or aftermarket. If you already have a lift.....now you have to balance spring hight and rate to accommodate the additional weight of the V8 and maintain the desired hight. Now you have transmission selection and adapters.........ask the builder what he spent at Novak? Cooling is another matter....and so forth..... My guess is that the builder above will have an easy $4K in his before it's over with.

Little something to drool over-

Stock Interiors sells headliner material in OEM colors.

The ones you listed are not for the AMC 2.5 that you have.....these are for the GM version of the 2.5, not the 84 up AMC/Chrysler. ...? They BOTH show that they are for the AMC 2.5 that's why I asked. Or, is it that amc just grabbed some other makes pistons for these motors? And the comp ratio, I thought that I read somewhere that the 88's had comp in the 8's. Must have missed that one. Also, I don't "facebook" and probably never will if I can help it. Pretty much a waste of time if ya ask me E No, Jeep used the GM Iron Duke in the 70s/80s CJs......completely different animal. There are multiple versions of what seems to be the same engine.......Pontiac and S10 share many of the same parts.....look to the Fiero sites for info.....GM versions. AMC/Jeep version you have is not part interchangeable. Facebook is the gateway to the site he directed you to.....you want in......you want to learn........that's how you get there.