Jeep Driver

I'm not at a loss........... They used stock measurement and then increased arch, that placed the pin forward in the arch. If they are going to produce lift springs they need to move the pin accordingly............idiots abound.

Drill a new hole forward in the perch and plate. It looks wrong, it looks like you did something wrong............and I could not live with that.

You should have three holes on the bottom of your perches, one round and two square. Move the axle back so that the pin is in the forward square hole and see how that looks. You may have to drill a hole in your spring plate to match. I'd call, email a pic, to whomever you got the springs from.

That is inexcusable, in my opinion. And, very fixable.

Rugged Rubbish, I think you mean.

Or no key at all.

Talking dirty here............. I prefer an A-sexual key.

As Dirty posted..........the bar end may be the same, the cut in the mount may be different. Which ever it is..........

My guess is there is one TB being produced..........the later TB, and it is sold under both part numbers. So, no matter the number or year referenced, you are getting the later TB.

As in 'paint runs'?

Every store bought POS TB that I bought wallowed out the frame mount hole. I went to a 98 frame mount...........solved. Taper has to be different. Play it safe and get a 97+ frame mount. Or, go to JKS and be done with it all together.

Yes, the taper is different.

https://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/d/jeep-comanche-pickup-truck/6391693626.html You better jump on this one. Chrome rear bumper, ClassIII hitch, cab light, straight bed.........he didn't mention rear..........may have AMC20 https://greensboro.craigslist.org/cto/d/jeep-comanche-pickup-1986/6328784691.html This guy deals in parts, Alan is his name (I think) or Andy, can't remember, he may just sell you that bed.

I never go to the home page.

Motor oil in the AX5 and it will be motor oil in the future AX15.

On the clearance issue............. Looks like you've taken your time, nice job, but now you've cheaped out on the important parts. Banks or AFE...........yeah, expensive but worth it.

Wow, had to read a novel to get to the question....................lol No, you cannot leave it like that. Use washers that at the same diameter at the OEM, grind out the moon shape of the intake so that the washer makes up the difference in thickness on the exhaust side. To be clear.......you will use two washers per bolt, new behind the old. I had to do the same except that the exhaust (AFE) was thicker than the intake........opposite of yours.

Glutton for punishment?

FWIW, wherever you have crevices/joints/seams........etc.........that you cannot reach, you'll load it up with sand that you cannot clean out.

You'll likely find that the rot is behind the flare.......through the bed side, under that flare.

My heads were too big. I took the bolt/pin out and spun it on a belt sander for a couple of seconds.............solved. Nothing happens when you take the pin out, no need for clamps. It does just what it's supposed to, center/align the pack, nothing more.

I used to watch AVE but his mouth is a little much for the wife.

I'll be pulling mine soon for paint and gutting parts of it. Let you know how it goes.........lol

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/premium-protection-20w-50-synthetic-motor-oil/ The more I seek quality, the less I even go into an auto parts store. I still get my oil at Walmart though.

You didn't ruffle my feathers........:) Just offering a counter POV. Guess I'm just grateful that we're able to get parts at all, let alone, quality parts.