89Patches

That's what I thought. Fuel enrichment on a warm start up then right into closed loop. Looks like it's coming along nicely! Very clean setup in a Jeep I must add as well.

Was that video a cold start? From what I saw looked like it was in closed loop.

I haven't been on here much, But this thing still ain't boosted? Also I wouldn't really worry about the the max speed of the supercharger, Because with the stroker of yours I highly doubt your going to keep making power pass 5K RPM's as the supercharger will probably be out of steam and the motor it self probably won't keep flowing past 5K RPM, plus it would be better to shift early to get back into your powerband.

The guy I bought my Comanche from had another one with 1.2m km. It was his daily driver and was of to the crusher becuase of serious rust issue's and was still on the original 4.0L. I believe he was the second owner.

Do I see a MK4 supra beside the comanche?

I can't wait to see this done, It's been along it since I last seen your progress (Pre body shop) :rotf: Good luck with the rest of the build :thumbsup:

I will check the solenoids again tomorrow. It's the only thing I can think of that would be the problem. And as for the TCU fuse under the dash, It doesn't have one. The only fuse is in the fuse block in the engine bay.

I haven't tried that yet. And it doesn't shift above 4k in 1-2, Doesn't shift at all.

So a few weeks ago I bought a 1995 XJ, And was told by the PO that it skipped second gear. I didn't think that was a problem. So I went out for a drive a couple of days after I got it, And like the PO said no second gear. So I started digging in to the likely causes. So here's what I have done so far.. - Replaced Trans filter - Replaced fluid with DEX/MERC III - Tested Solenoids - Tested TPS sensor - Tested fuse - Adjusted kick down cable That is all I have done as of right now. When I first got the XJ I checked the Trans fluid and there was barley anything in it and was very burnt (looked like dirty engine oil) Don't think it is a mechanical problem as it shifts fine through the other gears, I believe it's a electrical problem. The only other things I can think of is the TCU and or the NSS, which I have no idea if that affects shift patterns. I have never worked on a AW4 before so I am not to familiar with them. And when I search about this problem nothing is very helpful or completely useless information :yes:

So basically from what you guy's said, My truck as it sits could tow 5000 lbs. Because I guess you could say I added a "metric ton" package when doing the 97+ swap. So I may as well go over the current mods that are done to the truck. - 97+ interior swap - 00' 4.0L H.O - AW4 w/ Big trans cooler - Ford 8.8 3.73 LSD - Dana 30 HP 3.73 - Retained Rear 8.8 rear sway bar - WJ front sway bar - "Metric Ton" rear leafs - 3" lift kit - Braided SS brake lines/ DD brake booster I am probably leaving some stuff off, It's been awhile. And just throw up a Pic of how it sit's at the moment. Image Not Found And I do realize that there will be problems with the certification, But that's a problem for later.

I see what your saying. But I believe what your talking about applies to lifted truck with like you said 35" tires, The forces are much different when towing so I don't think It will have a large impact like your saying, with only a 3" lift and 31's. But I would like to eventually up grade the front suspension, But as of right now I don't think it's necessary just yet. But I do hear what your saying!! I have to finish the engine build on my car this winter and also get the MJ painted, So I will be drained to start the engine build on the MJ. but I would like to get all the "supporting mods" and suspension mods done before I tear in to the motor. I hope you stay tuned in when the build starts :thumbsup: And finally does anyone know what a Metric Ton is rated to tow from factory?

I drive my brothers truck with the Peugoet, never have had a problem with it. Heck I don't even use the clutch when shifting . :MJ 1: .

The link didn't work for me. By "Real tow rig" you are talking about diesel truck? The reason why there suspension is way more "beefed" up is because they have a fully dressed 2000lbs motor that sits in the front. From what I read I am under the impression that you think i'll be towing 10,000+ lbs :doh: The most I would probably ever tow would be 5000 lbs MAX!! which really isn't a lot of weight. And I would like to daily the truck as well with out having stupid stiff suspension... My truck is a LWB :thumbsup: I like having a usable bed ;)

I have had 2 Comanche's break in half... They were only parts trucks though. Now I am looking for a LWB bed for my truck and I would pay $700 for a completely rust free one. But that because I can't find any good one's in Ontario, Canada.....

As for the brakes I am thinking of stock R32 GTR 4 pots up front, As they fit under 16" rims. And for the rear probably just stock 8.8 disc brakes. I already have a car hauler, which was built to the max width that's legal in Canada and the MTO doesn't like that and I get harassed for it if they see it. And it's steel and weighs in at around 2000lbs not loaded, :rotfl2: So I am planning to sell it and buy a brand new aluminum open car hauler that's half the weight and a bit smaller in size.

Holy this was the first MJ build I followed, Then I left the jeep game, And now to see how far it's come since the last time I check this thread is amazing :rock on: Just beautiful!! :bowdown:

I have thought about building a stroker. Depends on the cost difference. I have built plenty of engines from all sorts of cars as I am a machinist, But have never done a 4L so I really don't know about availability of parts. And if I were going to build a forged engine I would probably want 500hp :doh: As I am a very power hungry person So keeping It Somewhat stock will limit me and save money for other modifications that I want to do in other area of the truck, So I can have a better overall truck not just a POS with a 5k engine. :banana:

Thanks that's Something I was looking for! So basically the only thing the bottom end should need is pistons to handle the more realistic 10 to 15psi of boost. Brake's = something that fits inside a 16" rim. Truck also retained the 8.8 factory rear sway bar and WJ front. Hitch is being welded to the frame. As for the stickers I believe they are the black plates, That's on my brothers Comanche, I do not have mine plated.....

A 2500 to 3000 lbs car with a aluminum car hauler. That's probably the most weight it would haul to be honest. But I want to do it with ease.. And as for the drive train that's what I did when the plan was just the 97+ swap, So it wouldn't be staying that way. It will be going back to a standard. I know what it will take for the rest of the truck to make able to tow, It's just the limits of the motor I don't know. Don't get me wrong this isn't 100% set in stone, Just something I want to eventually do.

So I have been away from this forum for sometime now and I never finished my MJ because I wasn't happy with the direction it was heading and was bit by the DSM bug. I was going to make it a trail truck but I don't offroad so it didn't make sense for me, lol So basically I want to make the ultimate towing Comanche :yes: I always like the low end grunt of a 4.0L but in the upper rpm dear good is it slow. So how do you change that? A TURBO!! I have lots of exprience with turbo charged vehicles. So it's not make to the turbo work is what I don't get. So the question is what breaks when a 4.0L is boosted on a stock SHORT BLOCK? Do the rods breaks, Pistons, Crank? I am guessing the rings would be the first thing to let go. So I guess I better go over the plans for my truck. Engine - Refreshed Stock short block - Ported cylinder head - MLS head gasket - ARP head studs - ARP main studs - ARP rod bolts Turbo/Exhaust -GT3076R T3 housing. -Full 3" exhaust/ 3" down pipe. - Water to Air intercooler And tuning will be done by a AEM unit And I already have the 97+ swap done with a 8.8 rear lsd axle and beefed up rear leafs And it will also be airbag'd in the back as well, Oh plus It with be just with a 3" inch lift... And want to run around 20 psi of boost So basically I am looking for 400+ ft-lbs of torque . :MJ 1: . And Yes I know what it takes to make horsepower :cheers: Image Not Found

I think its only good for trim and rims etc... To paint a whole vehicle your going to need a spray gun or else 90% of the time it looks like crap.

I think this will be the first time I'd ever seen AEM gauges in a Jeep = Pure Awesomeness :rock on: Now you just need the matching boost gauge. ;)

The only difference in rust issue's is the MJ's rust from the inside out and Toyota's rust from the outside in. :D

You could probably keep the bottom end and just swap 98 cylinder head, along with everything that is driven by the serpentine belt.

You can also do a leak down test, it will tell you alot. Also if it isn't given you problems just drive it till your crank walks, haha. And remember "if it ain't broke don't fix it"..