87MJTIM

Pros? Cons? of swapping in a reman? What have others experienced with reman's? I am kind of sentimental and think keeping the engine that came with the truck is nice/cool. But, it is just a "consumable" like other parts on the truck. Already swapped/replaced: BA 10, for and AX15 (and proper tcase). D30 w/ CAD, for a D30 w/o CAD Sagging, broken leaf springs, for General leaf springs. Closed cooling system to open cooling system

I bet there are 4 to 6 people in the backseat manning the orr's and one person in the front seat beating a drum.

I was going to ask him to drop the oil pan and look at the bottom end. I know everything is do-able - with time. For the next three months, I am very busy. (I am a CPA. It's tax season.) The OP is approx. 60. I did see it running up above 70, but not 80. (If the gauge is correct.) See above, re: my work. It was rebuilt about 6 years ago, 50k miles. It was done by a client (not the current mechanic) that ran an engine shop. He is no longer in business. My mechanic would get a Jasper. I've searched Jasper's before on the internet. There are some good reviews and bad reviews. Often, only bad experiences are given reviews. (That's not meant as judgement, just an observation.)

My 87 has had a ticking sound for a while now. I thought it might just be an exhaust leak. A visual look at the manifold didn't show any large cracks. I then thought it my be a lifter tick. I pulled the valve cover and tugged and twisted the rocker. (I don't know what to look for.) None seemed excessively loose. I could twist two sets ever so slightly. I think those were not under load from the CAM. Last week or so, the ticking became louder. I took the truck to my mechanic to inspect. He feels the sound is coming from the bottom end. Rebuild or Reman - that is the question. It was rebuilt 50k miles ago.

Possibly stuck in open loop with long term fuel trims very high. You will need to perform more tests to understand these engines and fix the problem. Do you have a Nickintimedesign REM yet? If not, it is well worth getting. Also, download the electrical and Renix fuel system manuals from the DIY section.

Year? Eng? Trans? 2x or 4x?

Date codes are usually Yr/Wk. The last two digits would be 01 - 52. If the tires are from the 90's and earlier the first set will have one digit, 2000+ will have two digits. From the numbers you pictured, I don't think that is the date code. There are not 88 weeks in a year. The number on the left in the photo (ending 29) may be the date code.

Now you're just older?

The LTFT above 128, the computer is detecting a lean condition (too much air), it will enrich the fuel. Check for vacuum leaks and tighten the intake manifold bolts/nuts. Check the fuel pressure, and possible clogged injectors.

Your LTFT is WAY too high. The computer is enriching the fuel trim. LTFT should be ~ 128.

My profile shows I joined July 2011, but I signed up earlier than that. I couldn’t remember my login info and re-registered. I am now both CC certified and YouTube certified. Thank you CC.

What are your LT and ST fuel trims?

Mine is always running cool. I think my thermostat is stuck open. The REM show temperatures from 170* to low 190*s with outside temperatures in the 30-40* F.

To far for me

Where?

87-90

The front brakes changed in later years. Specifically, the knuckles and calipers. If your D30 has the CAD, then you may look to swap a whole axle from a later year XJ. That way you can get the "newer" style brakes and eliminate the CAD. Just make sure the gears match. You 88 manual would have come from the factory with 3.07. As for the D44, the retaining plate is different from D35 plates. So pulling the parts from a ZJ with a D35 disk-brake set up will require modifying the retaining plate. The D44 four retaining bolts are equally spaced (like a rectangle). On the D35 plate, the two top bolts are closer together than the two bottom bolts. I have seen videos where the plate is drilled to change the bolt hole locations (see Nickintime youtube). There are disk brake conversions for a D44 that have the proper plate.

Yr? If RENIX, the do Cruiser's Mod's first. Look in to getting Nick-in-Time-Design "Renix Engine Monitor" (REM). Mine had a somewhat similar MPG issue. Turned out I was stuck in Open Loop - bad O2 sensor.

My mom used to say to me "You need that like you need another hole in your head." This reminds me of that.

Both of these are well worth reading. Renix fuel injection manual 88 Wiring manual

Did you connect the Crank Position Sensor (CPS)? It is at the back of the engine, close to the firewall. It's two wire (three socket connector) that drops down to the transmission bellhousing.

the three are the knock sensor, the temp sensor, and the O2 sensor.

They don’t fit! There are LOTS of write ups about them on CC. Do a search and decide for yourself

http://www.comanchemj.1hwy.com/photo6.html The above link has a detailed history of the Comanche as well as the numbers Pete gives above.