DirtyComanche

I added this one to my subs after Curious Droid lead me there. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZFipeZtQM5CKUjx6grh54g It's not really videos, more like podcasts, but he has thought out a lot of how we could could leave this rock, and the implications thereof, without relying on any technology that we have no understanding or scientific capability for at this point.

Nope, working on other things for the time being. It will be a month or two before I am back to this. I did order clutch parts, I need to see of UPS lost them or not.

The one you bought is described as being a switch, IE for use the with idiot light. The way it is behaving would suggest it is too. Rockauto's listings are too screwed up for me to verify if the other ones are correct. They look it, but maybe not.

DIY it with some rod ends and threaded rod, etc if you can't get the factory one to work. Cable shifters are never that reliable, and generally give poor operator feedback, they're really a solution that is meant to be used when a traditional linkage would be too complicated to ever work reliably (typically in cases with doublers/triplers or divorced transfercases) and at $180 I just don't see how anyone could justify the Novak setup. Boostwerks makes a linkage replacement, but that chances of it actually fitting correctly and working are very low, I also seem to recall it's quite expensive as they complicated it several magnitudes of order more than it needed to be (which is also likely part of the reason why it often doesn't work). This is mine, total cost invested was under $10: It's just a piece of flat bar which was drilled/filed to allow it to index correctly on the shift stud on the tcase, some rod ends I had lying around, and some stainless allthread I had left over from a JB Custom Fab NP205 shifter setup. You may need to make it slightly different depending on the positioning of the tcase vs the floor/shifter, but the main thing to keep in mind is to keep the throw ratio at 1:1 and have the arm on the shift stud nearly hit the tcase when in the farthest back position (which is 2wd high). I can shift the tcase with my pinky finger using this setup, and the gates/detents can be clearly felt. Make sure your motor mounts and tranny mounts are in good condition though as it may want to pop out of gear otherwise (which is a problem with the stock setup too).

I wouldn't.

I've not yet seen any 3D printed plastics that would hold up to usage as a taillight. I'm sure they're out there, but not available on the hobbyist level.

And the spring rubbing the inner C (or inner knuckle, not the steering knuckle) is because the coil either isn't in the bucket and pinned correctly (there is clips to retain them, they strip out), or it's an aftermarket coil that's too large of an OD, or the track bar is the stock one or poorly adjusted so there is side loading on them. Spring steel is super hard, so it's not going to wear out any time soon, but it may be able to be corrected.

Assuming you read your tcase tag correctly you have a NP242. The shift positions are 2wd, 4wd part time, 4wd full time, neutral, 4wd part time low range. Note, part time means it is only to be used for part of the time, as there is no central differential action in this position, IE not for dry pavement. Chances are the tcase shift linkage is all screwed up and out of adjustment because it's a terrible design. You may be able to adjust it. You've got the regular non-CAD HPD30 in the front, and a D44 in the rear. Good stuff.

That would be cool, providing you either set it to something I know or email the details to my actual email address.

IIRC the 8.8 is offset to the passenger side a couple inches. Either way it does not produce any negative effects in the MJ chassis, as the small amount of angle added to the ujoint is within the working allowance regardless if a double cardon shaft is used or not, and it does not cause the driveshaft to foul on anything.

I doubt it will matter, but I'd put it in the bottom based on cooling system function theory. You may need to 'adjust' it later though.

I don't think the "I forgot my password" feature actually works. Or at the very least it won't for me. I have no idea what my password here is, I'm automatically logged in on an older laptop and given you only get a couple tries before it locks your account I think it's unlikely I will figure out what it is.

It should have a 1310 yoke on it. No need for a companion flange.

He needs it for his sunshine shovel, snowboard, and surf board...

Explorer companion flange is 1310. F150 is 1350.

That's a little too bro'truckin' for me. Oh yeah, anything with a company logo laser cut into it is automatically on my "Will not buy" list. If they read this. Yes, that can limit what is available for parts, but I paid YOU for the part, so unless you're going to pay ME for the advertising, you can keep your gotdam logo off it.

Typically when you go to purchase one you make sure you get the companion flange (and the bolts) at the same time. I made that mistake the first time around. While I have never done a KJ 8.25 swap, the Furd 8.8 swap is quite simple and straightforward. But really, any sort of a swap (except a D35) with the perches actually welded on in the correct place would probably work fine for him.

On the upside, even if this MJ is a total disaster you still came out ahead.

Since this harness/ECM was out of a ZJ, I'd go ask on MallCrawlin. Otherwise you're just going to get more advice like that ^^^.

Looks really nice... Is there damage on the ring gear teeth, or is that just that disgusting contaminated gear oil on them? I wouldn't bother doing anything with that axle beyond selling it or throwing it in the metal recycling bin.

The restrictor works for this sort of stuff 99% of the time; some race classes it's common to not run a thermostat and just tune the system with a restrictor. If either the water pump flows too much, or the thermostat's 'motor' moves the valve too fast when it hits rated temperature, you will get a massive rush of hot coolant from the engine into the radiator, which displaces all the cold coolant in the radiator... Drilling a bypass hole in the thermostat can help too, as it means there is always a little coolant flowing through the system. This problem is why GM smartened up and started putting the thermostat on the inlet side of the engine.

Don't turn your efan on all the time for a start. Beyond that your thermostat is moving too fast. The restrictor Don mentions will help. Or try a different (better) thermostat.

Cool, a bobbed longbed. I want to do that with mine, but unfortunately I'd have to find a better box (one that a tree didn't fall on) to start with to do it, which just makes no sense at that point. It's going to take some time to stitch that cut they made back together, but certainly it's doable. Would I be correct in guessing the truck has a 5spd? If so, I would highly suspect that front axle has 3.07 gears. I don't think it would be too hard to get that thing safe, but it will cost a few bucks depending how bad things are. If you stick with that much lift you're going to want new aftermarket upper control arms (adjustable would be a good idea) or to go to a long arm kit of some sort, and the steering will suck unless you make some changes there too.

Self proclaimed expert. Most torques given for engine assembly are with the threads lubed with oil. It's standard practice, as no engine components are assembled dry. Anti-seize would require a higher torque, if anything, than lubed with engine oil. If you've spent any time behind a wrench you should be able to feel the bolt stretch when it hits torque. This is elastic deformation, there's a brief period (15-30 degrees) where you can turn the bolt without the required torque to do so increasing. After that the torque increases, then it decreased, this is plastic deformation at that point, and you'd better f'ing stop or it will break off or the threads will come out. Snap-On used to sell a 'magic' torque wrench. It worked on this concept. They were great, but people used them when they shouldn't have... No, I don't trust my arm or elbow, I use a real torque wrench. I do not decrease torque values for applying anti-seize, there's enough spread on the torque range for a fastener that regardless if it was a dry or wet torque that was spec'd you will get away with it, UNLESS it is in some special cases with either low grade/super elastic bolts, or threading into soft metal castings, or you've got bolts/nuts with threads that could only be considered a class O fit. In those cases you have to be careful, as always THINK before you do something. Examples would be if you're threading into straight aluminum, or a poor grey iron casting with minimal engagement. Too tight is always better than too loose. An overtightened bolt will live, and undertightened one will either back out or break off, save for rare instances that mostly don't apply in automotive use. If you take your truck to a SAE certified mechanic, the chances are he will tighten everything with the impact set to 11. He does this all day. Either the bolt breaks off then, or it is fine. Is it right? Hell no, but it works.

Looks like a good candidate for a donor driveline for a MJ. Any chance somebody can 'accidentally' wrap that one around a pole so I can buy it for pennies? Just don't damage any of the moving parts.