DirtyComanche

I figured that might be the only option. Get the new ignition cylinder keyed to whatever the new door key is... The other option would be to revert to the original setup with different ignition and door keys. The newer keys are easier when you're fumbling in the dark, that's all.

Oh, so I didn't have a stroke. Good to know.

I created a scarcity of a certain type of small Snap-On toolbox by starting a thread on mine there. Prices on eBay went up 400% overnight. They're a passionate bunch.

Interesting. I've had no issue warrantying old stuff through my dealer, but it's only the odd item every now and then. He grumbles about the guys that obviously are buying stuff on eBay and trying to warranty it, but only because they don't buy anything from him. Strap-On doesn't look at the dealer warranty returns, they just weigh the package and check it against the known weight for what those things are, then into the shredder it goes.

I wouldn't do that. I'd keep it, even if it's broken. You may be able to find a NOS rebuild kit on eGay or GarageJournal if you really care. Personally, it's a clunky old ratchet that has cool/historic value, but none for actual use. I do have some 60s/70s vintage stuff that I use, but it's the exception rather than the rule, and certainly not ratchets. The 'dual-80' ratchets are a lot nicer (T72/TL72/TX72/FX80/SX80 are the ones I have) than the old ones. Bang for the buck Gearwrench is making some very nice stuff now though.

Steel, and pinned to the leaf pack, sure. Otherwise, no, I've done my time with that stuff. Never again.

Fan for the s#*t to hit.

They're wrong, the change is in 91. HO bracket/pump/pulley is different than the Renix. You can mill the bracket down to correct it.

Fruit/vegetable juicer.

What is this on? Could you put it in your signature? I'm thinking that's a Chrysler MPFI 2.5L coil?

Yeah, he needs a 21 spline input.

So my door lock piled up for the last time on me today and I may have said some slightly negative words to my poor Comanche. The ignition cylinder is worn out to the point that I can take the key out while it's running, which is handy for getting my mail (community mailbox), but the downside is any would be theif can start it with a screwdriver. Can you order a set of keyed alike cylinders anywhere? 2 door locks and 1 ignition. It's the new style bisexual keys.

Why not buy a larger aux cooler? The B&M I have wasn't horrifically expensive, and you can mount them by means other than the zip ties. I zip tied mine (and my P/S cooler) for now because I plan to go to a better radiator and probably change the fan arrangement.

How was the ujoint while you were in there? Also the balljoints will wear uneven often, they're loosest at the center point since they spend most of their time there. Those complete axleshaft are actually CV shafts, I believe. (Checked Rockauto, the cheapest ones are $28 and $34, so $62 CANADIAN, or like $45 US for both sides )

That. It's a stupid feature. Okay, it works fine for the first 15 years but after that it's not useful. I just drive in 2wd. Not a fan of 4wd on the highway. But that's a different argument.

I have a truck brake drum out in the driveway for that. And yes, it does the toe stubbing nicely too, especially when it's dark out.

Run it and keep an eye out for one, it's probably not going to explode in the next couple weeks, and maybe not in the next couple months, and it miiiiight not explode in the next couple years even. I just picked up a 2wd external slave AX-15 for $50, I'm going to pull the parts off it to convert the spare internal slave one I have. The wrecker I deal with here wanted $550 for a complete tranny, pulled, not giving me a deal, and I do not see how it could be more in the US (except maybe HI, possibly AK, or any of the territories). You could buy one of out of state and pay for shipping and come in for under $1000. I know Portland is weird, but it's not that weird.

Find an external slave AX-15 or a NV3550 and don't look back. No Comanche came with a good manual transmission, some just came with less worse ones.

I'd also look for a loose connection personally, since your ebrake is not normally part of the fuel pump circuit. I'm guessing the vibration from releasing it is wiggling something. Perhaps the fuse, or the fuse holder pins. Lots of the aftermarket fuel pumps are junk too, so just because it was replaced doesn't mean it's not the issue. Unfortunately a lot of the jobber parts that are stocked by Autozone and the like are more or less tailored to people that aren't intending to own the vehicle for longer than a couple more years and simply don't last.

Wait, I think I understand now, your plan is to junk the one in the radiator and continue to run the aux cooler, rather than to junk the cooling setup entirely and hope the pan alone does it? My XJ doesn't have the radiator cooler. The jury isn't out on if that was a bad idea or not. There's just a B&M cooler strapped to the front of the rad.

You don't have it plumbed in through the cooler in the radiator too, or does your radiator straight up not have a cooler in it?

Are you sure he lied, or was just bad at math or counting turns? I've been there. I bought a 14 bolt FF out of a square body Chevy for my XJ. Buddy was like "Yeah, it's 4.10. It should be at least. I look at the tag on the front axle and I'm sure it is. Then we spun the yoke and it went around 4 times." And on and on. It sounded flaky but I went with it, and didn't feel like crawling in the mud to look at the front axle. Pop the cover when I get it home and it's 3.73. Wound up needing the carrier for the next axle I bought, which actually had 4.10s, plus I got one with the better style housing. My YJ friend bought a YJ D30 off the guy I bought my MJs off of. Same thing, was supposed to be 4.10, nope, 3.73. Knowing the guy he bought it off of, he just didn't know any better. If anything whoever that guy got it from told him it was 4.10s and lied (or also didn't know any better) and the axle was again resold with the same bad info.

Colander. AKA the religious headdress of The Church of the Flying Spaghetti Monster.

If it's a D35 it doesn't really matter what ratio it is, it's a waste of time and money to swap it in. Interesting, verified by checking the tags or gear stamps? Must be special order. Low pinion front axles suck, I'd pay for a set of gears + setup before running one. I think in 84-85 (and some extent 86) there is the potential for just about any freaking oddball part in the world to come bolted onto an AMC product, especially the XJ. The tow package XJ 3.73 ratio appears to be a myth, but then again I've never seen a 3.73 ratio XJ axle period, 95% of them come with a 4L and they're always been 3.07 or 3.55.

He is somewhat incorrect, you are required by law to purchase ICBC's "Basic Autoplan" insurance ($200k liability with a lot of fine print) if you've registered a vehicle in BC. If you wish to purchase insurance beyond that you are welcome to choose from ICBC or another insurance company. As I have a renewal notice here I will provide the actual numbers on it (this is for my JK). The "Basic Autoplan" required insurance is $738, that is with the $493 discount removed from it. The optional coverages I have are much cheaper, for another $4.8 million in liability insurance I only pay $242, yes I could drop that but IMHO $242 is a fair deal for $4.8 million in coverage (with a lot less fine print about what they will pay compared with the minimum requirement, and since it is all through the same insurer there's no arguing over who will cover what and which fine print applies). The collision coverage is only $152, and the comprehensive is a mere $70. The vehicle licensing fee (registration) is $61 (more than I recalled, but you can't avoid that). With no discount the minimum I could pay in BC is $1292. The actual amount I quoted myself as paying in a previous post was wrong, as this renewal (without changes) will be $1263 (I wrote $1256); I will price out adding $200 glass coverage since I need a new windshield, chances are it will be cheaper to just buy a new windshield out of pocket (doubly so if I put it in myself, since that went soooooooooooooo well on the last one I did, not. ) Now if I wanted to go with a third party for my extra liability, collision, comprehensive, etc, there is two main issues. The first is that of all the brokers I talked to, none of them would honor the coverage if the vehicle was as they described "off highway", which was not using the same definition of a highway as in the motor vehicle act. Basically once you hit a FSR your coverage was void. The second was that their own premiums were typically more than ICBC charged for the similar coverage; although one could not compare apples to apples as the fine print is different, you may well have been better covered using another insurer, however for the potential savings it didn't seem worth the hassle to talk to multiple brokers and try to find the best option. That said, I may well have been able to qualify for fleet insurance, in which case potentially I could have purchase a liability/collision policy that would cover all my vehicles, but again it would likely be a lot of hassle for minimal savings as the majority of the cost is the required "Basic Autoplan" insurance; also I may have been required to transfer my vehicles into my business to do this (and pay 12% tax on their value at the time), which would be a massive complication in my life that I want nothing to do with. I think had I wished to have a much better optional insurance package (loss of use, free glass replacement, coverage in Mexico) they likely would have had a product that would cost less than ICBC. Typically there's two types of people in BC that go with non-ICBC optional coverages. The first type is fleet environments; my employers have never used ICBC for this as they buy umbrella policies that cover everything from the aircraft to the buildings, but certainly any business running more than a few vehicles would seriously look into this. The second is people who are required to carry more than basic coverage (read that as they've leased or financed a vehicle) and have a bad driving history meaning that ICBC premiums for collision/comprehensive would be just way too much (I also believe ICBC can refuse to even sell you this type of coverage if they feel you're too much of a risk, I believe they're only required to sell you the "Basic Autoplan" coverage). I would agree that the basic premise of ICBC wasn't a bad one. It was intended to protect the consumer from the big bad insurance companies by guaranteeing they could purchase coverage at a known rate (not necessarily fair rate, although that was the intention), and it was intended to protect the people of BC by mandating minimum coverage through a government entity (meaning they would in theory actually pay victim claims fairly and in a punctual manner, this also isn't exactly how it works anymore). Unfortunately like most entities of government once the politicians got their grubby little hands all over the inner workings of it there was significant drift from their initial core values, and like everything else it became treated as another potential revenue stream (just like out 'Medical Services Premium' payments that actually don't go to pay for healthcare, but I digress). And that's more about auto insurance in BC than I suspect anyone wanted to hear.