DirtyComanche

Whoever turned in that Ford Galaxie deserves to spend some time in Gitmo. I am not a Ford fan by any means, but that's an absolute shame.

You have a 4wd Comanche rear driveshaft for your engine/trans/tcase combination already? Personally I would say to try installing it and see, but if it is too long and bottoms out in the tcase, you will destroy the tcase or other things, so if it is too long do not say "Eh, close enough" and drive it. If the shaft is too long it is normally fairly economical to take them to a driveshaft shop and have them cut it down and balance it. If it's too short it tends to cost a lot more, as they will need a new piece of tubing.

For the electrical connectors it might be easier to fish the lock springs off of them with a pick first. Then you can wiggle the connector off without fear of breaking anything if the lock pops back in. It's what I normally do with them, just don't lose the locks. I don't think you have to undo that bracket for the FP regulator buuuuuuut... I'm not sure, and I put a HO intake/rail on my current one. Soak both ends of the injectors with WD-40 to make it easier to get them wiggling so you can pull it all apart. The orings on them will glue themselves in place and make it seem like it is still bolted when it isn't. Change all the orings when you get it apart. If you reuse any of them it is asking for leaks. I lube them all with a little WD-40 or silicone oil before assembly. Make sure everything is clean too, no corrosion or burrs, you don't want to cut any of the orings on reassembly.

Please post the results. I would like to know. I have a YJ tank I was planning to use but I'm not sure it will fit either.

It was in the right place on the Renix, why are you moving it?

Any amount of lift has ramifications to how the suspension and the rest of the truck works. 3" is going to require a bunch of new parts in order to be made to drive decently. Perhaps you just want to replace worn stock components to restore the original ride height and quality?

I'll have to look at this later. We have NVGs at work, they're quite impressive.

This is a S-10 cap. As you say, works well, but not quite right.

The motor is indexed wrong. Take it off with the wipers where they are, then move the wipers to the parked position, then put it back on.

And a slight correction to your OP, the Peugeot (and early AW4, and 2.5L and 2.8L transmissions) use a 21 spline output, not 22. In case you wind up resorting to counting teeth on junkyard tcases. In your case it's probably easier to just find a whole tcase. It doesn't have to be from an XJ, later YJ and TJ options work too, along with probably many others. I see them for sale for $100-200 regularly.

That tcase is definitely junk. I wouldn't use anything out of it if at all possible, and certainly not the input gear. 23 spline input gears are pretty easy to find. You can use a Jeep or a Dodge one. Just be cognizant that the gear cut changed in 94/95 and you have to use the correct one or the planetaries will explode.

I made my own linkage from scratch. It was about a 1/10 for difficulty for a fabrication job. Just a small piece of flat bar cut to make the tab on the tcase side, some rod end bearings, threaded rod cut to the right length, and some other hardware.

At this point I'm going to keep watching the classifieds and try to find a used professional version. Failing that, buy the Stihl/Husky I put in the OP. Talking to more people about it, the consensus is you will kill anything less than that in short order. Also, if I have a good one, I can lend it out and avoid having to use it myself as much. I'm not the only guy who wants to clear these trails.

Unfortunately Amazon.ca, which is the site OP needs to order from for free shipping, doesn't have them. Summit Racing might be worth checking, they ship free to Canada over a certain dollar amount. I'd agree with your thinking though, he's probably better off just going SOA with quality stock replacement springs versus gambling on lift springs. It's the route I will be going with my current build. I did like the idea of using GM C-truck springs SOA to get about 4" of lift, but it's not been done (that I know of) and is quite a bit of money for me to gamble with given the shipping costs. Plus it turns out I probably need 6"+ of lift anyway.

The tank behind the coolant reservoir is the wiper fluid. The 2.5L already has the best coolant reservoir because it fits so nicely there, at least short of building one yourself.

The wire will go through, Canadian customs doesn't care, but you have no recourse if they ship you junk or the wrong stuff. If you pay by Visa you can tell them to make it right, and if they don't, tell Visa to do a chargeback. It's amazing how fast vendors change their tune when they realise the payment has been clawed back. I got in a fight with a vendor over a defective product, they wanted me to pay to ship it back and charge me a restocking fee, uh nope, I was being nice by trying to work it out, one call to Visa got my money back and they suddenly found it in their heart to send me a prepaid shipping label to return it.

Yeah, I wouldn't do it. It's going to drive and steer poorly too.

Roger dodger. For me bending down for longer than a few minutes is a problem in it's own anyway, so it solidly looks like the brush saw is the best tool for the job.

One guy swears by using pro-grade hedge trimmers. I'm not sure if that's a great idea because we're trying to cut everything off low.

I take a bigger Husky saw (I forget what it is, a 562XPG or something, way nicer and way more saw than I should own), and generally don't use it. The Milwaukee M18 one gets used 95% of the time because it's instant start/stop. Either way you run into the issue that the scrubby stuff tends to just pack up in them and throw your chain off. I'm not sure if I'm doing anything wrong that leads to that (chain tension is some sort of debate akin to religion or how to cook a steak), but everyone I've been out with has it happen too and considers it to be normal. This isn't going to be pretty landscaping at all, it's just trying to make it passable enough that you can drive through it, and hopefully enough people keep driving on it to stop it from encroaching for a few years. Some of the terrain is rather nasty too (half the point), so something lighter might be better anyway. It's good to know that a more mid-grade version worked fine, since they're half the price of a pro one. The space it takes up isn't a big deal, I'd be taking it only with the intention of doing this, basically as long as it fits somewhat okay in the back of the XJ (without a rear seat) it's not bad. If I had to strap it to the roof rack and unstrap it constantly it would get old. I might want to measure one or test fit it first though. That's a steal of a deal. I've been looking for a used one, this probably isn't the time of year to buy one though, and no dice so far, save for (very nice) used pro grade stuff for 80-90% of new. I have a set of similar ones and actually planned to buy a bigger version (you can get them up to about 40") to do the one off trees/branches quickly. No starting anything, or even pulling the chainsaw out of it's holder, just hop out and lop off the offending piece of tree. The sheer amount we need to clear makes them unsuitable for anything more than that though.

Boring video that shows how bad it can be, well, actually it's worse in a lot of places:

Who has experience with brush saws? Backstory: Some local guys want to host an off-road event, and we need to clear out some old trails to do this. In this region we get a lot of alder and poplar that will spring up in a hurry anywhere below about 5000' elevation, so anything that isn't driven on every year tends to start to grow in and then eventually disappear. This stuff is often pretty thick and twisted, mostly it will be only 1/2" to 3/4" diameter, but sometimes it will be up to 3" or so. For the big stuff a chainsaw works nice and quick. For the smaller stuff it tends to catch your chain and rip it off. Sometimes we'd just cut the big stuff and then drive over the small stuff, if you do that a few times it tends to break it enough that it dies for a few years, but this isn't as good long term as cutting it off at the ground. How thick of stuff can a mid range brush saw go through? Something like a Stihl FS131 or Husqvarna 336FR? These are both about $650-700 CAD. Does the Milwaukee M18 version (Quik-Loc trimmer with the brush cutter head) perform similarly to the mid range gas units? I have the 16" chainsaw and use it for cutting the larger brush normally, but it has impressed me in it's ability to cut 1' to 2' diameter logs for firewood, etc. I'm I stuck buying a $1400 Husky 545FX (or similar) to actually have a less painful experience with this?

That would be an annoying fix but not too hard.

That's interesting, because they used to take credit cards. Must have had one too many chargebacks for defective products and said eff it. I would look at what gogmorgo said regarding the ship centers that will hold the package for you. You're not far from the NY border and I'm sure there will be places there. Then you can just order it with your Canadian credit card (they won't know) using their website. I wouldn't wire them money personally. I'm sure they would ship you a product, but as to it being the product you wanted and not defective, well, that might be a different matter. Plus whatever they charge you for shipping will likely be outrageous.

I'd love to have that just to annoy people.