DirtyComanche

Progress is limited because I fubared my arm. However, I did some things, and even took pics (after the sun had set). I purchased a peice of 4x7x.375 angle to make the front crossmember out of. It was as close as I could get. Then I welded some nuts into the stock front frame rails so I could bolt the crossmember in place for fitting/welding. Image Not Found I'm going to need to clean a few things up to get it to fit better. And if the steering is going to clear it will be an entirely different matter. This is the winch I intend to put behind it. Image Not Found It's cheap. But it's the same as a ramsey 8000, just under a different name. Not much space back there. Even with no fans in, and the steering and belts all gone, I could not get the winch in through the top. Image Not Found This means that to remove the winch I would have to either pull the crossmember, or pull the engine! Obviously, it's starting to look like I should make this crossmember bolt in, if I can. Unfortunatly, the nuts I have already welded in are not ment to be structeral. This also got me thinking that I probably could have used a better design than just a peice of angle, and probably avoided these issues. Live and learn.

The CJ ones use two peice shafts, which have a very bad rap because they are weak. The tubes are also weak (in all AMC20s). However, the ring gear, pinion, and carrier is stronger than a D44. And the one peice shafts are pretty darn good too.

The glass is discontinued. So, it doesn't matter if it's standard or not. You're getting it cut or pulling it from the bone yard.

I've got an 89 header, 87 grill, 88 headlight trim, 86 headlights/turn lights/driving lights, 86 fenders, 89 hood, a cut up front crossmember, and a booger welded hood release cable. Who says you have to take the whole clip? Oh, I've also got 86 and 89 doors. And a 87 windshield. And a 87 or 86 rear cab window. 92 tailights (don't ask me why). And some 96 ford taurus fans... And if we want to really delve into just how many different year parts are on my truck... Nah, let's not. I'll admit I took the easy way out by not using my 86 hood. Sorta.

Translation: You're SOL, son.

I've seen the fixed length ones, and nothing bothered me at the time. However, I figure a few bucks more for something else, or making your own, and just having some peice of mind.

Ever read my sig? Yeah, there's the occasional person who love's rusty's. I had somebody on JeepForum tell me that I was wrong about the LA kit that I had bought/installed, when he had done neither such things... Although, normally his springs are supposed to be fine, as I said, out-of-house.

They may lean a bit, one way or another, maybe the springs are bad, maybe they aren't. Mine used to, but it settled out. However, on the soft rear leafs, mmm. I added an extra main to my stockers when going SOA, and the my front rusty's coils were still of such a higher spring rate that the front absolutely refused to flex. The rear would just do all the work. Soft rear springs don't necessarily help... And from what you say, my rears are of a MUCH higher rate, as I threw two axles in the back and it went down maybe 1.5" at MOST. Those axles being an isuzu 12 (complete) and a waggy D44 (complete). Oh, and rusty's springs out out-of-house, and the rear ones are made comparably to just about any others now. The old ones were total crap... The front coils are the same as RE, teraflex, etc, IIRC. If they're leaning badly, swap their sides. Drive it a week. If it's leaning the way it was before, don't worry about it. Add a small spacer to the front if it bothers you (extra stock isolator). If it's leaning to the other side (as in, the short side you swapped never came back up) then send them back and b*@$£.

The winch is going under the radiator, behind the stock crossmember. The new crossmember is getting built over the old one, with the 4" part of the angle plating the front, and the 8" part going back towards the engine. I will lose approach; over my old setup at least. But not much, depending how things work out. I will be running stock MJ rear shackles in the front, which aren't very big. However, my wheelbase will be stretched by maybe 2" by this, so that will make up for the loss of approach. Departure angle still owns me. And the XJ has GOT to stay DD. Or, at least work when the MJ doesn't. Or I'll lose my job; which would be annoying as it gets me hella discounts on tools/hardware. Not to mention I'd be broke.

After writing this, I had an epithany (of that's what it's called). I will use 35" of 4x8x.250 angle, which will (hopefully) allow me to mount my winch behind it, like I always wanted to do.

As an update: I shaved the stock front crossmember, and pulled apart alll remaining steering (pump, box) as it is just in the way. I bought steel, but, realized I'd screwed up. I bought 32.75" of 4x4x.250 angle to make the front crossmember to hang the leaf pockets from. Later I realized that my spring centre-centre is 32", and the springs are 2.5" wide. Tomorrow I'll buy 35" of 4x4x.250 angle. I also bought various flat bar. Two peices were 12x4 to be the outside supports. After looking at it I realized that if I made them 12x5.5 they'd serve dual purpose as a steering box brace. And I bought assorted 3x3x.250 HSS (square tube) to cut open and make the leaf hangers out of. These I think will work. The idea is to weld the crossmember and supports to the front of the truck, and bolt the leaf hangers to them. This will allow me to easily 'do away' with them if I decide to at some point. Unless I get lazy and just weld them in place. Oh, and I trimmed the front fenders on my XJ there was some rub with the 31s. Then I relocated the flares higher, like the MJ. Then I decided to bedliner the lower quarters on it, but didn't quite get around to it. I've also decided to put my LAs on it, as my buyer backed out. I think it's scared of me already.

It's an open system. It's in front of the airbox, IIRC.

If you do it right, no. However, your DMV and my ICBC thinks differently.

But to answer your question, the NV3550 will bolt right up to a 4.0. I think you need to fiddle with the pilot bearing like with the AX-15 swap.

My MJ did that, but I went to the jyard where they have 20+ cherokees and rolled windows up and down until I found one that worked. And I lubed the cable before I put it back in. I think it'll outlast the rest of the truck.

Don't look at me like that! I have to write down my thoughts in order to fully access a problem. And I'd rather just hit the reply button than having to go and make a thread with a title...

The new interior doesn't match much of the old. Try it and see...

Junkyard. Cherokee 4-door front doors are the same. Find one in decent shape and roll the windows up and down to make sure it works good. Then drill out the rivets and yank it out. Cost will be $15 at most.

The bearing will just about instantly die without it. I think.

Well, the pitman arm is @#$%ed anyways.... The TRE had seized in it so bad that I cut it off with the arc torch....

Well, I picked up some SJ front leaves today. Set 'em in place to looksee at things. Looks good so far. Just gotta wait for the machine shop to be open again (buy steel). I also got a ZJ pitman arm. Is there a way to pull a pitman arm without the puller? Can I BFH it?

Just spray it with some POR-15 and it'll pass. Unless that first picture is actually of the frame. Anyways, the cab back area that is 'frame' is a hell of a lot easier to fix than the rest of it.

I think I included the e-brake bracket in those 8 bolts. Hard to remember. And the exhaust, who needs it? Cut it off at the tranny. Or, you could just undo the two bolts that hold the hanger to the frame. Or is it attached to the bed? Man, it was a long time ago that I changed that. The exhaust was the first thing to 'fall' off. So, 10 bolts, 2 or 3 straps, and about 15 wire snaps, and a bunch of grunting (if you're alone).

Staun's internal locks are probably street legal. So are hummer locks, sorta....

The screw lock system actually works... I'm not for it, because it kidna f's the tires. But it does work. Oh, you don't have to take the old lip off the rim. There's a shop here that does weld on ones without. They work. And you can still mount the tire the normal way. I dunno where Pat can find cheap beadlocks... I can't. Well, once you figure in shipping. I can get a set welded onto my wheels for $600 though. If I was to do it, I'd cut out some plate into 1/4 of each ring (to save plate), then weld them together on a flat surface. Then I'd centre the ring on the rim hillbilly style, and weld away. But then I'd be running two sets of tires though, because I know they'ed be scary as hell. Oh, and blowouts aren't that bad. It's when they happen when thigns are already bad that they kill you.