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Everything posted by DirtyComanche
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The factory spring clips are best. The el-cheapo ones you can get at auto parts stores and spring/brake shops aren't exactly great. Actually, I hate them. The factory ones are actually rivetted to the bottom leaf spring so they don't move around, but can be left loose to allow the springs to flex. Which is the major downfall of the aftermarket ones. But it sounds like you have none of the factory ones. So, you'll have to go aftermarket... Or be like me and weld a peice of cut up HSS to the leaf spring, er, don't do that.
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WTB - One VERY LARGE buffing wheel.
DirtyComanche replied to DirtyComanche's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
If I knew, I'd tell you. Somewhere behind the tank, I guess. -
My 86 had 6x9s in the rear. The just cut out the stock holes in the plastic panelling to fit a 6x9, and screwed them to the plastic. Sound quality was not there.
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WTB - One VERY LARGE buffing wheel.
DirtyComanche replied to DirtyComanche's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
I can't take the credit for this, I had a friend help me. It's his bender and he knows how to use it! But there was still a bunch of 'umm, hmm, let's just give'r and hope for the best!" which is a good attitude with DOM. Pics suck. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found I like the grille hoop. I think I'm going to run a YJ style grille actually :brows: We got that side hoop pretty tight. Just gotta do the other one and the hard/weird stuff is done. Then it's just making fairly plain peices, and figuring out how to weld it. That might be hard. -
I got totally sidetracked by the 4BT. S10eater has a 350 as well. Seems to fit pretty good. And there is at least one guy on here with an AMC 360, not finished but looked promising.
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It most likely is. While a guy can pull off a rebuild on a higher milage motor without over-boring, typically it makes more sense to just bore it out a bit. However, there's almsot nothing to be gained in regards to power by this. Unless you're going to bore is .060+ over. Then you're running risks with the block's integrety.
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WTB - One VERY LARGE buffing wheel.
DirtyComanche replied to DirtyComanche's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
2 peices of tube were bent! With about 1' of waste total! I'll get pics later. The light is wrong now. -
If I was a betting man, I'd bet he's a bot.
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Or spend about $50 more and get a yukon chromo. Yukons are cheap. :popcorn:
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WTB - One VERY LARGE buffing wheel.
DirtyComanche replied to DirtyComanche's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
Pics. Hood clearance is rather tight... Image Not Found I might have to cut it up major to fit an air filter. Or just not run one... Throttle rigging... Image Not Found I screwed it up and the cable is going to chafe a bit. But I'll fit it when I have a chance to get a 'new' cable from the boneyard. Got the HEI on. Image Not Found Not crazy about the plug wires... But it'll work. I'll get some other ones if I have to. Started messing with the rad hoses. Image Not Found Hmm. Keep my feet warm. Image Not Found Image Not Found I'll run some sort of hard pipe from here to the back of the cab. Dunno what. I'd rather use plastic because it'll weigh less and be less likely to burn the $#!& out of me. And apparently I gave away my old lower rad hose... Might need it. Since the outlet/inlet sizes on the block don't match the rad. Or I'll get a reducer for the bottom hose or something. Got the top figured out at least. Still haven't bent any tube. But I did polish up that die that somebody left in the rain. -
You gotta cut the extra bracing off normally.
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I wish it would rain. I have garage, but it's too hot.
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So, the 4BTs are mechanical injection? A guy could probably get a lot of power out of one for very little money.
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Relay click then no start
DirtyComanche replied to Kenosha Warrior's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
You've probably got some parasitic loss... Or the battery is a pile. Which it is. -
There'll be a difference... Not sure how much, but probably 50-100lbs at most. The 4.0 isn't exactly light. It depends what you want to do with the truck. It is YOUR truck.
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They're huge... I have one, but it's not going anywhere. Image Not Found
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Well, that's a cummins... Sure it's a 4BT, not a 3.3? Either way that's pretty sweet. I didn't think anybody had dropped the cash/time to do it.
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Where? Proof? I didn't think it would fit.
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WTB - One VERY LARGE buffing wheel.
DirtyComanche replied to DirtyComanche's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
Yeah, but ford made them. Ford parts = crap. I have a new unit on order. It's too bad mallory doesn't make a 250 I6 unit, because they were on sale to be the same price as the stocker. Ohwell. It's just gotta make a spark at the right time. Ignition systems are so over-rated. -
Got a pic of the front axle...? 'Cuase if it has a D44 front, that'd be interesting.
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keep the 2.5 or convert????
DirtyComanche replied to bhorocks's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Actually, I couldn't find any of my posts either. If you want to do something really cool, get a buick 4.1 and mate it to an AW4. I think I know how to make it work, but don't feel like buying the parts and having it not work. -
WTB - One VERY LARGE buffing wheel.
DirtyComanche replied to DirtyComanche's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
Well, the docotor put me on some 'great' meds to try and fix a chronic sinus infection. So this entire week seems to be pretty pathetic. Basically, in the last two days I managed to determine that the HEI distributor I had lying around was only good for a core. It has some sort of problem, in that when it spins, well it really doesn't spin actually. So yeah, that's a problem. I'm just going to buy a whole new unit, if I can. New as in it comes in a box and has a warantee. Might be a little more reliable that way. I hope. I cut my hood again. I think it looks sweet. Maybe I'll bend some tube this weekend, if I'm not feeling so lousy. -
Okay, okay... I don't have a pic. Weld the spiders to the side gears. Weld the side gears to the case. Weld the spider gears to the case. Make sure the weld is good and thick, you want as much mass in there as possible or it is more likely something will break. It's unfortunate that it is a c-clip axle, otherwise you can take a peice of FB and weld that inside the carrier too, then just keep making passes across the carrier until it is entirely full of weld. Don't weld the centre pin. Don't weld the axleshafts, gearset, bearing, and all the other 'duh' parts.
