DirtyComanche

Everything that looked like it could be cut off :nuts:

IMHO, fuel takes a while to go bad. Yes, if you live in a warm area and keep the truck outside it happens a little faster. But still, it should remain stable enough to not affect engine operation, at all, for at least 6 months. And it has to be really bad to cause major issues. EFI vehicles doesn't react as bad to it as a carbed engine would. Even if it is really bad it'll normally stay running, just not very well. Anyways, sounds like this truck has a friend/disconnected fuel pump ballast resistor. Big ceramic block on the inner fender on the driver's side. Without it the truck will start and run for a few seconds, then die. Then you turn the key over and it does the same thing.

Your cab would probably fall apart around you.

I would have cut more than just that front X-memeber...

So, here's the top triangle... Was a bish to get those in like that. Image Not Found Windshield wiper/hood problem. The standard solution is to bend a bar way up so that everything clears. But that looks like $#!&. Really Image Not Found I think I'm going to get some hardware store hinges and change how the hood opens so that there isn't as much of a clearance issue, then run the bar in front of the wiper crap. Or I'll get pissed off and not run wipers (I already took the guts out). Got my front crap together, mostly. I'll have to try out my fenders. I have to do the other coil tower tie-in too. And I wasn't very impressed with my notching on this part. But it'll work. Image Not Found And that gap between the hood and tube looks like $#!& on that angle. I might run some FB down the side of the hood to clean that up... Or not. Hopefully my propane guy will be back from vaction tomorrow and I can get the rest of my fuel system stuff and get it wired and move-able soon. I need some breathers for my PCV system, and an air filter too... Ugh. Oh, and I think I figured out the rear X. I can take it out and weld it, then put it back in. Yeah, why didn't I think of that before? Because I wasn't thinking. Now I just have to cut down the peices to get it to fit.

The pressure was keeping it from freezing. Never had it happen with a drink though. But, that's better than a broken bottle.

I see a large problem. It has the blue oval syndrome.

It's always a shock when they move on you. Often after I get mine out I go "Wow, the garage floor looks like that? I'd better park this thing back in here so nobody sees..."

I don't know if the mechanics of it will work. Maybe. I'll mock up exactly where it has to be and think about it... I wouldn't mind getting rid of the glass in favour of lexan... Glass is just heavy and breaky.

Revolvers suck... And I don't know what a z-box is, but if it's like a revolver, it sucks.

Winter wheeling and no glass = lack of fun. I might just do it but use a sheer plate (gusset) to tie the node together and not worry about being unable to weld all the way around. I'm going to have to do some of that anyways.

I got part of the rear X done.... Image Not Found It's really tight... I doubt I can actually make it an X... Image Not Found Because the last time I checked, I can't weld through glass.

That would make a really cool DD or a street truck project.

Hmm, got a part number on those breather/vents you used for the PCV system on the XJ? I need to eliminate mine. It won't work anyways...

I really wouldn't worry. The problem is the spider/side gears like to blow in half. The only way to fix that is to weld them to the carrier. Then things can get tricky if you ever want to get them out. If you don't wheel entirely with the throttle, you should be okay.

How it is looking so far... Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found The light is bad... And I need to clean up a bunch of that junk. And there's a gap in it I don't like, I'll see if I can get some more stuff tacked up and get it outside to show ya'll what I mean. I'm going to have to play with the back X, it's kinda odd. And the windshield bar setup. Dunno exactly what to do with it, I want to run wipers but I'm having trouble getting it all to fit. I'm going to look at some other rigs and see...

It'll work. You might still blow the spider gears like that. Hence I'd personally have welded it an aweful lot more. But that's me. It's unlikely you'll have any problems.

As comparison, mine droops this far and is still 'safe'. I damaged the joint in my other shaft when I lost my limit straps (er, shocks) and went beyond that). Image Not Found If you don't think it'll droop farther than that, you'll probably be okay. And you can cheat and take about 1-2* out of the static drivetran angle by raising the tcase (ever hear me bish about tcase drops?). Grind the DC joint too and you'll be fine. I think.

Are you paying to have the knuckles turned? 'Cause if you can turn knuckles you can narrow it. Anyways, I hate my LPD44 for various reasons. The driveshaft bind is on the list, but really not a huge deal. The main deal is my driveshaft sits on rocks and gets obliderated, same with the pinion yoke. As to how much better the TNT long arms flex... Well, radius arms over-droop anyways, so it'll probably bind the shaft. I betcha could bind it with a HP axle. I mean, the pinion height change is what, 3.5"-4"? Spread over a driveshaft length of say, 26" working? The stock DC joints will flex to 30*, and can be ground to 35*. So, you're talking about 7-9* more in static driveshaft angle with a LP axle. Which is substantial. And ballpark. Find somebody that is running them with a LP axle (naxja) and ask how it went.

He's got a 2wd one, so it hardly matters. Oh, and the head on the HO motor is different. It is 'worthwhile' to swap it onto the earlier renix engine if a guy is willing to go through all the associated BS. And there's a bunch of that.

Patent pending... Umm, right.

That 4-eyes grille actually looks really good with the brush guard... And I doubted it.

You can get new replacement ones off ebay or some website for cheap-ish. Or it's URF situation.

Umm. You're missing that they're turning the knuckles back and the housing foreward. So the knuckles and caster will remain at hte same angle, but the pinion will point sky-high. If a guy doesn't see street he can run zero caster though... Anyways, you'll bind the double cardon joint at the tcase with a bunch of flex. I don't even have my pinion turned up much, if any (at 8.5"ish), and I don't bind the u-joint at the pinion. Just the ones at the tcase. Which you can grind out to get 5* more. If your suspension doesn't droop/flex great, I wouldn't even worry.

Well, I welded on some attachment points for the front hoop. I wasn't too proud... But it'll be okay, I've got it dialed in now. I tacked the front hoop in too, only to find out the one side needs to be kicked in about 2* more. I hate the pointer on JD2s. Once I actually weld something I'll take some pics... Just because I'm a lady of the night.