DirtyComanche

It's pretty convoluted. But I think I've got it figured. I'm so god damn cheap. I can re-use the stock gauges without the cluster now. I know, who wants stock gauges? Well, they're cheap...

Oh, and the connects for the factory tach are labelled in japanese. Luckily I can read that... Sorta.

That was sorta a given. With cross-over you won't run into the problems I had (inverted T high-steer). I Had the drag link binding on the tie-rod. Then hitting the leaf spring. It was really sweet. My steering is hack. It's on my 'list'.

It depends on the terrain to be wheeled, the tcase gears, tranny gears, and the power level of the motor. 4.56s and 37s works for me. You just get to smell my clutch sometimes.

Looks like the axle location is about right... The steering going to clear everything? I want to move mine out a little more once I change up my front end again.

Anybody ever really spend a lot of time looking at the wiring diagrams in the FSMs? Ever get the feeling that you're either retarded, or there's a lot of mis-prints in the diagrams? :nuts: :headpop:

I dunno, I'd totally rock that thing. Just think of all the chicks you could pick up.

How old is that thing anyways? Is there more than one? I've seen many pictures of it :dunno:

It's more like 5". The WT rear axles aren't exactly 'wide'. It'll probably look goofy.

This project hit a stand still because I am to retarded to ever remember to go buy parts. Hmm, 2 weeks, better have it done...

A ford HPD44 is oh, 67" WMS. About. A wide track waggy is only 64" front and 62" rear. So you might have width issues. Anyways, apparently that thing just welds on there and solves everything. I'm not a fan personally, but if you're looking to keep the jeep style coil suspension, WTH.

It's relatively cheap. Depending. How he did it is where it might differ from me. If he bought the axles, he'll have about $6000-8000 in them. If he built the axles himself, he'll have maybe $4000 tied up in them. If he's like me, he'll have $2000. If he's like my buddy Curtis, he'll have a 40 of rye and a couple hours of time in them. To build all the leaf spring crap is only about $100 in steel. To buy the springs would be near free (those aren't lift springs, see how flat they are and how far the shackles are dropped). Those tires are what, $1600 for a set? Less if you know people. I don't see beadlocks, so he's probably got $100 in rims. He'll have a few hundred in driveshafts. As to of what he has in the motor/tranny/tcase, who knows. Depends what he's running and how he built it. A good running 350 can be had for $500, plus whatever performance parts he wants. A TH-350 can be had for free, but $100 is reasonable. And a NP205 goes from somewhere between $50 and $200. Then there's all the little costs for the motor mounts and tranny mount and blah blah, totalling $500. Somebody want to add that up? I don't. Anyways, mud trucks are cheap in many ways. That calculated cost would be without 'lucky breaks' like a buddy trying to throw out a 14B FF with 4.56s, or some farmer selling a D60 for $100.

When you undercoat it, are you just going to spray over whatever is already down there, or clean it up majorly first? Sorta thinking about doing my dodge, and bedlining it.

That chevelle is one of my dream cars. Luckily for the other chevelle enthusiasts, I will never buy one. No sense me destroying something that beautiful.

Maybe I see it wrong, but... The liquid was already below freezing. Possibly by several degrees. However, it did not freeze because water, unlike almost all other substances, expands when it freezes. If it were to expand, the pressure would rise and effectively force it back into a liquid state (compressing ice = water). When the pressure is released (open the cap) it allows it to quickly turn to a solid state as there is no pressure forcing it back into a liquid. It's an equilibirum reaction, until the cap is pulled.

A lot of guys put the reserve at the same price as the buy it now. Wait until the auction is about to end, bid what you can spend. If you fall short of his reserve he might still decided to sell it for what you bid.

I'd do it. It has some great factory parts (4.0, AW4, A/C, etc) and appears to be solid.

i hear that a lot about rams Perhaps. If it happens my 6BT and associated parts will go into something else... I know somebody that has a 57 chevy that's longing for a cummins. It'd make a badass tow rig.

The pirate thread got interesting. Somebody claiming to have driven the pile stopped by to post!

No, I actually didn't cut the crossmember out completely. It's still in there, just plated and covered so you can't see it. Try to make sure the frame is aligned decently straight when you weld your new one in.

Everything that looked like it could be cut off :nuts:

IMHO, fuel takes a while to go bad. Yes, if you live in a warm area and keep the truck outside it happens a little faster. But still, it should remain stable enough to not affect engine operation, at all, for at least 6 months. And it has to be really bad to cause major issues. EFI vehicles doesn't react as bad to it as a carbed engine would. Even if it is really bad it'll normally stay running, just not very well. Anyways, sounds like this truck has a friend/disconnected fuel pump ballast resistor. Big ceramic block on the inner fender on the driver's side. Without it the truck will start and run for a few seconds, then die. Then you turn the key over and it does the same thing.

Your cab would probably fall apart around you.

I would have cut more than just that front X-memeber...

So, here's the top triangle... Was a bish to get those in like that. Image Not Found Windshield wiper/hood problem. The standard solution is to bend a bar way up so that everything clears. But that looks like $#!&. Really Image Not Found I think I'm going to get some hardware store hinges and change how the hood opens so that there isn't as much of a clearance issue, then run the bar in front of the wiper crap. Or I'll get pissed off and not run wipers (I already took the guts out). Got my front crap together, mostly. I'll have to try out my fenders. I have to do the other coil tower tie-in too. And I wasn't very impressed with my notching on this part. But it'll work. Image Not Found And that gap between the hood and tube looks like $#!& on that angle. I might run some FB down the side of the hood to clean that up... Or not. Hopefully my propane guy will be back from vaction tomorrow and I can get the rest of my fuel system stuff and get it wired and move-able soon. I need some breathers for my PCV system, and an air filter too... Ugh. Oh, and I think I figured out the rear X. I can take it out and weld it, then put it back in. Yeah, why didn't I think of that before? Because I wasn't thinking. Now I just have to cut down the peices to get it to fit.