DirtyComanche

I need to see this. I've seen pics of the one that was assumably a hack. But might as well see this one. To actually make one a drop-top is a bit of an interesting predicament. At least to have it meet crash and roll-over safety. They'd have to do some interesting things...

The wiring harness must be swapped in it's entirety. The rad support and rad must go. The motor mounts must change AFAIK. And a bunch of other stuff.

For $300 the donor is probably screwed. It should be an easy swap.

The 100A~ models seem to typically be stamped with a 100A, or something close to that, marking. Never have I seen a 61A version stamped. I always get the ones that have the 100A stamping on them out of the boneyard.

D35 standard, D44 avaliable.

They're 42" centre-centre. Don't measure outside, it isn't a relevent measurement.

They're both supposed to draw a light vacuum to pull the half-burnt oil fumes from the crank case, so they can be run back into the engine and burnt. It's an emissions thing. I have the front one plugged and a filter on the rear. It smokes like mad right now. But I think that's because there's still gas in my oil more than anything. I need to run it a bit more then change the oil and we'll see what comes out of it... It'll probably just puke oil then.

I think the s-10s are over-done. I don't dislike them. But it seems everywhere I go I see one rocking a SBC and some stupid rims. I know, an LT1 is a bit of a different beast. They've got lots of potential.

The bedsides did the typical rust out. How's the cab on it? What's the plan, just a resto? Or gonna lift it? Lower it?

Toy axles are, umm, different. BrettM runs one in the back of his truggy thing. Anyways, there's a couple different types. The ring gear actual diameter is 7.8". The splines are either 27 or 30, but I don't think the shaft size corrosponds with the dana ones. However, the shafts are said to be about as strong as D44 ones (which means nothing, there's so many different D44 styles). They have a good inner pinion bearing. But otherwise I think they're garbage. Oh, the width on them is kinda different. 58" is the normal pre-IFS width. But if you have a dually one, I don't know. I didn't even realize dually toys were factory. I thought they were all hack jobs. I'm pretty sure they never sold them in Canada because I've never seen one in person.

The real question is if you can actually tell anything with it? Never used mine for anything. If it was being a pile you could tell why by looking at other things.

Wakka, you can get a real battery up in the cold north. Anybody who deals interstate batteries can get you an optima. The blue/yellow ones are most resistant to being run flat. However, the reds will take a beating too, and provide simply stunning short term cranking amps (mine tested at 1026CCA, not bad for being rated at 800). Not to mention they don't puke acid, and don't weigh as much. But I'll admit that the reason I run one is because I got it for $100. Brand spanking new. It's good to know an interstate dealer. Oh, is your alternator's internal regulator actually allowing enough voltage output? 14.4 would be the minimum to get a full charge on the battery. I don't know ANYTHING about internal voltage regulators other than that they normally work so you don't touch them. But I've had an alternator that would not produce enough voltage to properly charge the battery. Output hovered around 12.5-13V. Why, I am not sure. I sold that pile before I checked into it. Otherwise it just seems like the typical annoying parasitic loss problem. An amp clamp works wonders on figuring that out.

Would be nice if I did. But these TREs are metric, I think. Stupid chyrsler. I couldn't get it off with the pickle fork actually, and had to revert to the puller with the correct castle nut on upside down. In the end I destroyed the grease boot and mashed some of the unimportant threads. Oh, and when it let go it made a very audible bang.... Then after pulling the P/S box and tearing down the input side of it, I learned why I hate parts stores. The sold me the wrong seals for it. So, now I get to put it back together with the wrong seals and attempt to get a refund for the seals I bought, and attempt to get the right seals. And hope it doesn't just geyser P/S fluid when I go to drive it. Since I just replaced the pump and at the price they are I'd really not like to do it again.

You can pop the springs without pulling CAs, but you normally need coil compressors or to undo a bunch of other stuff.

Yeah, I always smack it first. Tried a ball pein, nope. Small sledge, nope. Did a quick check with the pickle fork to see if it would work without messing up the grease boot. Didn't look like it. Figured I'd try a pulled for something completely different. Nope. Started wailing with the pickle fork. Got PO'd and went back inside. I'll get it off tomorrow.

No offense to the guys who actually do it right. But it seems a lot of them are lazy and figure it just zips back on with the gun, and you might as well rattle it for a minute so you know it won't come off. I f'd over my pulled and the TRE trying to get it out.

You want the brain power of www.ifsja.org They know these trucks.

Or don't worry about it. For the idle, clean your throttle body and the IAC. And perhaps the injectors. But normally it's just the IAC and TB are dirty.

Why must they insist on torquing a TRE by rattling it with the impact until it won't move anymore. If you actually torque it correctly it won't spin. HELLO. And the nut won't come off because it has a cotter pin in it. HELLO. And there might be a slight chance that the average guy with a puller and a pickle fork can actually get it off in his driveway. HELLO. And I will extend this to the troquing of SAE fittings. The correct torque is really low (maybe 15 ft-lbs AT MOST), but it seems they'd much rather get the biggest french (cresent) wrench they've got and yard on it with both hands. Accomplishing what? Crushing the flare so the fitting isn't re-usable. And maybe actually making it leak. :mad:

That's way over complicated. You'd need to run a drag link and a panhard bar for that to work. Unless you were using leaf springs. And you'd still need to run hydraulic hoses all the way to the second box. And a control setup for a motor. And a motor. The correct valve is a shuttle valve. 1 pressure in line, 1 return, 2 outputs for each side of the ram. Which I new before I asked. But totally had forgotten about. Been a long time since I took any hydraulic theory.

It says that one 30-40 trucks were made in 86 with the 2.5L... In which case, I ruined a rare truck. And it says the TF 904 was only used with the 2.8L. It came behind the 2.5L too. It was a POS in either case. The article could use some work.

That's how you build the axle, but no electric motor would give enough force to push the knuckles to steer. You need hydraulic force. A single ram on the tie-rod works. Wait, I see what you mean. Use the motor to turn the steering box. Would be interesting but highly complicated. I'd be better off buying an orbital valve than doing that.

I looked at a quadra-steer truck quickly a couple times. It looekd like a compromised setup to me, after all it was built for a street-driven truck. They used a double ended ram, IIRC. I don't have money like that. You'd think that hose explansion would be minimal. It is quite a distance. But, hydraulic hose is tough stuff. Especially if it's rated for 4000psi and my pump tops out at about 1400psi. One way or another I doubt it would be an issue as I do not forsee using it at any speed. The truck drives WEIRD enough as it is. Probably something to do with zero caster and leaf springs. A lock-out would be a novel concept. But I know I'd just leave it unlocked anyways. If I crab walk it at 100, I'll just have to put some faith in the exo cage.

AFAIK, the t-stat located temp sensor is for the gauge, same as the one in the head on a renix motor. There should be another sensor in the block for the EFI. But I don't know much about the HO motors.

Outta the blue on this one... But I was looking at a total pile of a suzuki that has rear steer. And I started to think. Which is bad. Normally I'd go read pirate until I get bored with the concept, but instead I posted here. So, can you get a simple hydraulic valve that would allow you to cycle an actuator in and out, yet offer some sort of automatic return to centre? Do you think P/S pump output would be able to drive a second ram? I don't see any reason why not, since I would only use rear steer when I'm moving slow, and fast steering isn't a huge deal. And it drives the ram I have without any hiccups what-so-ever. Comments? Maybe I should go read pirate until I realize this is immensly complicated and lose interest.