DirtyComanche

I don't have an odometer.

I bet you're right on the hydrogen production, I had assumed it was produced by electrolysis but it makes more sense that it isn't (I'm thinking acid donors would be far cheaper, just not sustainable.)

That car did make the hydrogen on board right? That in its self would make it a bit more efficient than pumping stations filling storage tanks.. NO! NO! NO! The busses I spoke of run on liquid hydrogen that is pumped out of a filling station. It is made in a facility that consumes MASSIVE amounts of electricity to make it. The hydrogen is essentially a battery, as electrical energy is used to make it from the water, and then re-released either as heat in combustion or as electricity in a fuel cell. My point is if you make hydrogen on-board (which is what that math exercise is) you will ALWAYS be opperating at a loss. Hence it is NOT WORTHWHILE. In that example we started with a given amount of energy (100%) and through the process of converting it whittled it down to only 13.5% of what it was. 86.5% of it was wasted in the form of losses, IE it did not do any useful work for us.

There's LOTS of hydrogen powered vehicles out there. I do believe that a large portion of vancouver's bus fleet is hydrogen. There's large carbon fiber tanks mounted on the roof to store it... However, they are not breaking physical laws. That hydrogen was made from water, at the expense of a GREAT deal of energy. In fact, quite a bit MORE than they see as a final production (motion). It's all parasitic loss, it happens EVERY time you convert one form of energy to another. But don't worry, we didn't break the laws of physics there - that energy didn't simply vanish - it just became something usless to us (heat normally). When you use an alternator driven by the engine to elctrolize water into hydrogen and oxygen, you're doing exactly what was done to produce the hydrogen for the above busses. However, again it is done AT A LOSS. An alternator is actually fairly efficent (in the range of over 90% IIRC), however the internal combustion engine isn't. It's maybe 30%. Electrolizing water is also not very efficent - it varies greatly on how good the design is. So, what we've done is taken energy from gasoline to drive the engine at a 30% efficenty, which then drives the alternator (the belt drive has a friction loss too) at a 90% efficentcy, and electrolizes water at say a 50% efficentcy. Combined this is .30x.90x.50 = .135 or 13.5% efficentcy. So, for all that gasoline we burned to make this system work we only got 13.5% of that energy back. This is not a gain, it is a LOSS. And if you aren't willing to believe that, too bad.

Wow, what a bunch of BS. Pretty much like EVERY other fuel saving device that you DON'T see implemented on modern vehicles.

They're all 2.5s, so they don't have as many clearance problems. With a 4.0L the oil pan is lower... Also the UCA towers on the axle hit the oil pan flange. Again, that can be fixed. Notching an oil pan for clearance is nothing new though. Look at the oil pan in a 6cyl IFS toyota truck if you want a really good example!

Vista is garbage. Do not buy anything with it. Eventually they might fix some of the glaring bugs and make it a little more stable, but I do not have enough faith in micro$oft to expect them to get around to that for a couple years. That's all the advice I can give.

Which guy? And I THINK you'll be at about a 3" drop with ZJ rears? The ZJ guys put their stock fronts in the rear to give them about 3" of lift, IIRC. Clearances with the oil pan get bad at about 3" low in the front, I think. I'm sure it can be fixed, but everyone I've ever talked to about it seemed to think it was a 'major' problem. :nuts: I think they just aren't willing to use a sawzall.

You know, after just hitting momma bear's cub I'd NOT be thinking about going back to 'try to help'.

There's an IFS MJ on here, JBhill's truck... Those are SFA though. The use a 2wd beam. I think they used adjustable ball joints. The SCCA rules didn't allow major modifications to the trucks AFAIK.

Some might be interested, just a short little clip. I don't think it's a repost. http://www.brightcove.tv/title.jsp?titl ... =140859702

I took out a flock (er, heard?) of quail with it too. Stupid things. It's really nice when you have to wash the blood and feathers off your car.

I hit a deer in my cutlass supreme, it looked like this: Image Not Found After I fixed it.... I wasn't much for paint at that time. But I drove it for a week with a smashed front end with big chunks of deer flesh hanging off it. It really impressed my vegetarian girlfriend (er, ex girlfriend). That car just had no luck with me. Two trannies and a deer. I actually miss it, it was really nice to drive. Oh well.

Electric... I don't pay for it, so it's all good. Most places that people actually care about not going broke have a wood stove to at least cut down the electric/gas bill. Here I pay flat rate on my rent, so it doesn't matter. I also plug my dodge in because my coolant mix is borderline at -40. That and diesels HATE cold. Like I said, I've seen a few wrecked blocks. It only takes a couple degrees the wrong way to cause major problems.

It's both! It doesn't matter, the other measurements were C, but you get the point.

;) How's about the negative 30's? I grew up north of you in PEI.....you don't get temps as cold as we get out here, but you get the wind which we don;t....all evens out. PEI? Prince Edward Island. It's been -41 here the one day this winter. With a bunch of -20s to -30s.

I too epoxied my shifter and broke it power shifting... It's not convenient to have your shifter come apart when you do have a rev limited and aren't big on letting off the skinny.

I've seen that before. I've also seen destroyed blocks from it. You definatly lucked out. You guys don't know cold. Although it actually hasn't been bad (yet) this winter.

That's what I figured... Should be worth a try. Depending if I bother. The reason is that there's a lot more NICE aftermarket rims for the chevy BP than ford/heep 5x4.5. There is some rims, but not likely what I want. And I have this half brained plan for something involving IFS eventually, and the S-truck stuff is probably easiest to 'borrow' the necessary parts from. But that's going to be depending on what my research comes up with.

I want to try drilling them from 5x4.5 to 5x4.75. Long story. Anyways, that's 1/8 farther out. Is there enough material on the flange to get away with it?

Takes about 5-10 on the MJ (probably less now), but on the XJ I had it took me about two hours... Stupid thing had A/C and a front skid. Better yet the front skid had been installed with SAE hardware (in metric pal nuts) and I had to cut it off after wasting a lot of time with less destructive methods (I hate front skids). So, if I'd budget a fair amount of time if you've never done it on that truck before.

I wouldn't powder coat anything that gets 'used'. It's not that tough, so it'll look like $#!& in no time, then if you touch it up with spray bomb it still looks like $#!&...

Who would have a brand new 2.1 not installed in anything? Seems kinda strange...

I wonder what my VIN is and if there's anything outstanding on mine. It'd be worth it just for the looks on their faces... :nuts:

Oh, you're another northerner... I live in Dawson Creek (for now at least).