DirtyComanche

It'll be okay as long as the swaybar end links are mostly vertical, and the arms on the swaybar (where it is bent back to the hole for the end link to attach to) are mostly vertical. A swaybar is an incredibly low-tech device. If the bushings are all shot, you might replace them. It'll work more 'as intended'. Short answer, if you dropped the bar equal (or close to) lift height it'll be okay.

I fully intend to put some, if not most, of his contact info on crawlinbc publicly by tonight (it's a forum that does require registry to be read). After being egged on on the bcjeepclub I gave it to them. So, if your female friend wants to phone before things get ugly... Well, she probably has a couple days. Everyone is out of town for a competition right now. I might have to post it on funinbc too, much as I hate that site (I have no clout there, almost none of them know me). And maybe even BC4x4 if I can remember my login info.

I don't know how economically sensible it would be for him to deal with some of the smaller shops in the states. It normally isn't for me, but I'll admit I haven't tried a lot of them. I deal a lot with Jeap Thrills (that typo is no typo, Chrysler freaked out and wanted to take them to court for trade mark infringement) in Abbotsford, or maybe it's Surry. IDR, but it's in that hell hole that I simply call Vancouver. Anyways, 'B', Bryson, is my contact there. I either call him or deal with him via www.crawlinbc.com. Actually, ANY of the vendors on crawlin would do their best to treat you right, but none of them have online stores. They are all in BC, so there is no pain with customs or foreign currency. They do normally list their products in the vendor section of the forum, but sometimes you will have to PM them for specific requests. But, crawlin is a lot more like pirate4x4, if you're going to sign up there be careful what you post. Oh yeah, www.speedwaymotors.com; they have some cool products (I ran up a couple hundred bucks the last time I looked at their site :roll: )

Well, if he doesn't provide you with a tracking number... I might phone his home address. Or, his manager and explain that they have a slightly less than ethical employee, which could cause them some headaches. In retrospect, I could have laid a few more cards on the table and told him that I expected him to email the tracking number by 6pm, as he gets off at 5 and it wouldn't take him an hour to get home in richmond, even if the bridges were busy.

I phoned him at his work. I chatted politely with him, and informed him that you were slightly upset about the lack of a tracking number for the seat. He said he had shipped it, but did not have a tracking number on hand. I told him to do us a favour and email you the tracking number ASAP. We'll see.

Not at all. I emailed him via his CL ad. Told him I'm from Westbank, and that I was interested in the driver's seat even though it was marked as sold. We'll see if he gets back to me. Beyond that, I'm thinking maybe I should just give him a friendly phone call. Since after all my phone's area code is a BC one. It might not be the same as his (604), but it still might be 'close enough to home' that he gets spooked. Or maybe I should phone marine chrysler and ask for him?

I'd suggest talking to your bank about it anyways. I don't know if they can/will handle it the same way, but it couldn't hurt.

Depends... Diff covers, I like ruffstuff. http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/cat ... s-c-5.html Gears, generally I buy yukon. http://www.ringpinion.com/ Brackets, tabs, rod ends, etc, either ruffstuff or polyperformance http://www.polyperformance.com/ I don't buy anything that I can make, generally.

Oh, do you pay your paypal account via credit card? If you do, you can normally get visa/mastercard to put pressure on paypal to return your money. IE, phone the credit card company and say it wound up not being a legit payment. If you keep money in the paypal account or take it directly from your bank account, I imagine you're screwed for the money.

I'd second that as being the most correct solution.

Give me ALL of the information you have on him, and I will make some inquiries. What site did you contact him though?

For what purpose? To change your bolt pattern? It's probably the wrong width, if nothing else... I could be off-base.

How far away is he? Do you know anyone in the area that owes you a favour? Do you want to destroy his life? Is he registered on Pirate4x4? How much money is in question?

I'm against financing such an item. I'd finance a house, but only if I had 20% as a down payment minimum and reasonable job security. Otherwise, no, I won't finance a damn thing. It'll be $200 cars before financing.

Let's put it this way... If I was that guy I'd be watching the classifieds. After all, I'd need a replacement set of tires/rims.

I'd not heard that before. But generally everything regarding the 8.25 I disregard. Not enough strength to bother or care.

Visteon wasn't spun off until 97. Sterling in 98. These axles showed up in the late 80s, IIRC. Visteon also makes no mention of building axles, just interiors and electrical. Whatever, it's largely irrelevant. Referring to is as a 'Ford 10.25' might well be most correct.

Yup, so he showed up tonight with an 07 A4 w/ the 2.0T, 6spd, Quattro, and some sort of 'winter package' (all seats are heated, and a nifty pass though for skis from the tunk into the cabin area). It was dark by the time he got here, so I couldn't say much other than the interior looks nice. And there's an overwhelming amount of features, it seems. He'll figure it out, eventually. I have some faith in the old fart.

Does Visteon own Sterling? Or, did they? Ford owned it, spun it off, bought it back... Anyways, the 10.25 is probably cast nodular iron. The sparks were more consistent with cast iron, shorter and more orange in colour. Also, it feels soft when grinding, cutting, drilling, etc, which is consistent with cast nodular iron. Cast steel would also be very atypical for an application like this. As to the 8.8, I wouldn't comment, but I'd assume the same. So, I welded this thing on. I pre-heated to about 500*... Welded 1"~ segments, peined the weld, blah blah. Used the MIG, and did it seriously hot... Image Not Found Ground around the edge to smooth it all out. Image Not Found I shouldn't have made the plate as wide as I did, it was slightly counter-productive. Ohwell. Also, I welded the inside but neglected to take a picture. And I hate wire wheels. Image Not Found

But... To what pressure? Shop air is gonna be 120PSI, you don't want THAT in a tire. And they aren't going to read the manual; how dare anyone suggest such a thing. It's unfortunate, but most people don't have a clue. So the light comes on and they take it in. Or they drive around with the light on forever.

Carfax? Here you can just take a VIN number to the insurance office and have them run it for $10.

Hey! Who you calling stupid! :D . I've been prefilling oil filters for 30 years I mean the process, not the intention... Fill filter, flip filter over to install, spill all the oil out of the filter and onto the engine and floor, swear. With a remote setup with the filter oriented correctly, I could fill it and stick it on there without spilling it. I'd actually bother then. As it is I just grumble, put some oil on the gasket, and spin the new filter on.

I like how that cost you $2300, and I was looking at one on the stealership for $8900 CND a couple months ago (a 98, also white). Looks good. Treat 'er well. And umm, I'd avoid financing $2000 vehicles in the future (at least you aren't financing a $30K vehicle that you can't afford).

I often pull the plug cold. I don't really care. I imagine there will be a little sediment on the bottom of the pan, but I have trouble believing there would be a lot that wouldn't have been caught by the filter that could actually be suspended by running it. Maybe I should waste half a quart and flush a little clean oil through it when I do that, just because. Whatever, my oil change interval is way more often than recommended anyways. And pre-filling is stupid on these things. I'm dead set on running a remote mount oil filter on my XJ (when I get that far).

Actually, it's a brand/trade name, like NiArc or Nickel-99 or such. It's just a rod that has a high nickel content so it welds better to cast iron. It's expensive. I have some, but it will have to go in the oven before I use it (if it is still in decent shape). Also, I haven't used my stick for much more than burning out bolts/stuck stuff recently (now that I think about it, it's probably been 2 years, that rod is probably garbage). To complicate things a little more, I didn't want to just plate it in with regular hot rolled steel. So I tried to buy some A-50 or T-1. Turns out neither are easy to get here. But they had a chunk of .375" AR (Abrasion Resistant), which is brutally hard. It requires to be preheated to 300* minimum before it'll weld nicely. So, there's going to be a fair amount of heat in this process. I'm thinking I might go rent an oxy/acetylene torch to aid in pre-heating. I have a little oxy/mapp torch that take the small torch bottles (1-lb?). I don't know if it'll throw enough heat. Also, I'm going to need some serious heat to get the freaking pinion yoke off. I broke my harmonic balancer puller trying to get it off. Durr. I would have tried my little torch to get it hot first, but I had no oxygen left.