DirtyComanche

A rear D35 is worth nothing. I have thrown away several in the last year alone. Everything else, I can't say. You don't need the drag link if you steal that P/S setup though. Actually, you can use any P/S box out of an XJ. Just the pump/brackets need to come from the 2.5L. I'd not be willing to pay more than $100, I don't think. But I have 2 or 3 spare boxes and probably a pump for a 2.5L on hand. :roll:

http://www.avkfasteners.com/ I think they sell plain or plated steel ones. We have stainless ones at work, but they carry a funny part number (not an AN or MS number), and we have to buy them from Dart Aerospace or something... Probably really pricey. Hard as fork to pull.

What's actually wrong with the green thing? It got hit by hail? Everything looks peachy in the photos. But they say it's damaged 'all over'? They wrote it off because of hail damage on the hood and top? Or what? If it's cheap, scoop it. Could always part it out if nothing else.

I don't have A/C, but I need OBA. So that's where the pump will be going. Maybe. Nothing is ever set in stone.

Actually, I don't like the 4-link the way it is in that picture. It will be changed to a dual triangulated setup. It'll be tight. I didn't do it that way from the start because I didn't think it would fit. And I wouldn't recommend dong this in a 2-car garage with a low ceiling and everything else... I need a real shop.

I could pretend to love that for a while. Not long.

Bringing this back so you can hear me ramble, and say inappropriate things... So, I stuck some frame rails on the front: Image Not Found I wasn't smart enough to figure out how to make the piece between those frame rails and the ones in the mid area other than by sticking it all together and using the 'measure once, cut 40 times' method. Also, I put my hood on to give me that fuzzy feeling that I was making forward progress. I didn't use any bolts because that would be hard. Then I figured I should test fit the 4.0L shaped peg into the roughly 4.0L peg shaped hole: Image Not Found The axle is in the approximate full-bump location, and is offset to compensate for not yet being narrowed. Bad-@$$ homemade EGR delete: Image Not Found Just another mystery of this pile. Like the daytime running light installation... In place, I think: Image Not Found The wood is just to wedge it nice and tight because I'm going to leave it there for a while, and the engine isn't totally level for that reason... I put the engine in basically the same place as stock, but my frame rails are narrower so the alternator didn't clear (I expected), and the mechanical fan is only a 16yo C-hair away from self clearancing on the frame. So, probably going to have to run dual Taurus e-fans. Clearance around the axle is good, and there will be room for the downpipe near the driveshaft. Also, the engine clears the stock brake booster, not that I really care since I was looking for an excuse to bolt on some hydro-boost. I think I will remount the alternator something like this: Image Not Found But maybe not. Shot from behind: Image Not Found That's an AX-15 in there. I'm actually contemplating the unthinkable, keeping it and using a box4rocks or similar NP231 doubler with my NP241. Probably not. But it isn't like me to make a plan and stick with it. And in closing, I'm full on wallowing in wheel/tire dilemma land.

I smell white trash. I can't see it in that picture, but I can see the signs of it.

I do about 14Km each way. Pretty much nothing... I might change that to 50Km each way. Which would be all highway, not even a traffic light (but there is one bridge, which is about 30' long, and never causes real delays).

:rotf: :rotf: :rotf: Just like playing starcraft.

Cool flatbed, it really 'fits' with the rest of the truck. Now go close your hood. (And maybe post more pics)

I don't understand their reasoning for doing that, as it is common in places other than just CL. It's not like I go 'Jeez, that's a nice Fiero. I was looking for a jeep, but you know what? This would be way cooler.' It's more like 'I'm going to send this %*#& an email to tell him he's a $! idiot'. Maybe I just have anger issues. :dunno:

Practice, practice, practice.

Maybe. The economics of the whole swap are goofy unless you have 'free parts'. If you had a desire for V8 power, then a V8 would be the swap to do and paying the extra price wouldn't be a big deal... If you wanted something milder, and had a bunch of stuff lying around, a 4.3 wouldn't be a bad idea. If you were in a situation where everything was junk anyways (all your 2.8 related stuff, trans, rad, etc etc) I'd recommend going to a 4.3 over a 3.4, even if the 3.4 would be more 'bolt in'. But, I'm more than willing to rip and tear as needed to make something fit.

TPS issues.

The 4.3 works out better than a V8 for cooling/fitting... Sorta. Headers are still a fight.

One of my few posts on NAXJA in a long time... I need a 3/4" spacer regardless, if I just wanted a clocking ring I could get a 3/8" one. The input on the NP241D is a deep/long 23 spline deal. Unless I swapped input gears on it, or cut the input down (either might be viable, but there is issues with both) it would bottom on the output shaft of the trans before things mated up. I'd decided that I'd simply buy the clocking ring and then I could at least play around with the position of the case to a certain degree. Ultimately, it might be a smarter idea to put some new holes in the transmission, but I'm still undecided. This swap would be a little weird regardless. And probably ridiculously expensive once everything was in place... Cummins B3.3 (I don't like how the 4BT would have to fit), plus a 5-speed since I've half convinced myself that it is a better idea than an automatic for what I intend to do. It'll be expensive since used B3.3s are NOT easily had, so I'd probably be buying a new/rebuilt (crate) one either from Cummins or a rebuilder. Plus I'd need everything to go with it (turbo, injector pump, figure out the power steering and alternator mount, etc), and the SAE adapter for it. I think it could come out swell. Maybe I'm silly/stupid. But there is a member on here with one in his MJ, and I think he used an AX-15. Works for him, but I don't recall if he played with his pump settings...

I like the 4.0L, but it feels underpowered in the ZJ. In the WJ it is terrible. I think the general consensus among the grand owners is you should look for a V8 one unless a 4.0L comes up as a screaming deal. Waggys are great other than the whole 8mpg thing.

I'm betting junk, but you could try 'em and let us know?

Nope, he put 'talented' in bold for a reason, I'd say. As to of which, I wouldn't judge. But she was a hotty, and didn't do any annoying BS that I can recall (I'm the slightly wrong generation to judge, meh), so I will mourn her passing.

I don't have any problem with a $500 fine for parking in a handicapped space when you're not handicapped. I think $1,000 is not unreasonable. Remember, we (most of us, anyway) are the class of citizens known as the "temporarily able-bodied." You never know when an accident might put you behind one of those handicapped decals. At that time, you would curse the healthy, ego-invested clowns who think they have a "right" to park in handicapped spaces. Yes, I agree, I don't like seeing people who don't need the handicapped spots using them. However, like Geonovast says, there is a lot of abuse of that particular part of the system. Hell, here you can get a permit for simply being TOO FAT. Screw 'em, make 'em park in the back 40 and they can walk those excess calories off. Anyways, that's beside my point. I think that a $500 fine is unwarranted if there is nothing stating that that is the consequence (besides had I looked up the local by-laws in the regional district office), or it is not universally so. I had no idea that I would be faced with an $85 fine for letting my meter expire, I probably would have been absolutely anal about throwing more change in it had I known, typically such a fine would be $20 at most with a reduction for early payment (the last ticket I payed was $10 after reduction for being early).

Well, I'm sure they could afford the best meter technology available given the amount of $85 fines they hand out. Or the $500 fine they give if somebody parks in the handicapped spot without a valid decal for it (it's one of the other check boxes on the ticket, I went :ack: ).

So, I got a parking ticket a couple days ago... At the airport in a certain crappy town in Northern Alberta... I let my meter expire, but got back within 5 minutes of it expiring. I was waiting to pick up some people, and I didn't really know when they'd be there. They showed up about 5 minutes before the meter was going to expire. Apparently that's an $85 ticket! And the time on the ticket was exactly when it expired. So the by-law guy waited, or checked the time and came back right then. :fs1: I was pretty mad about it. But a lot of people think I have no right since I was 'wrong' for not having placed another quarter in the meter. :dunno:

Price out the dies on the JD2 and you'll see how it gets expensive. If you only ever intend to bend 1.75" tube, then it isn't too bad. I've got way more in dies than I do in the bender, and that's only with a 1.5" and a 1.75". I need/use a 1" and a 1.5" pipe from time to time. The only upside is that most people in my area have JD2s, so we can trade/borrow dies as needed.

Hmm. That's not a bad idea. They are rated for 300ft-lbs on the dot. And I could get one with a GM pattern, then use a SAE#3 or #4 (whatever) to GM adapter. The list of GM vehicles that I can pull one from isn't too bad either... Also, one wouldn't be nearly as expensive, nor as large, as a NV4500. Maybe all the little pieces will fall together...