DirtyComanche

:shake: Yeah, there's nothing political in that post.

How is a 260X joint stronger than a 297X? Better yet, why not a 760X joint instead? I like your consistent labeling for the options. If you don't have lots of cash, lower and find some cheap 33s for it.

Did you just buy the house and not change the locks? Personally, I don't believe in heavily armed home defense. If I were to live in an area where I specifically feared that PEOPLE are going to try to make an attempt against my life for the sake of my possessions, I would be moving shortly. But, I guess it's different here... If you want my opinion on small arms, well, maybe later.

More details...? :thumbsup:

Well, most of what I 'got' I bought for myself... Which included: -2X propane saddle tanks for a GM truck -SM465 -NP205 -About $400 worth of stuff ordered off summit racing (Dist, wires, valve covers, and I don't know what else but it added up somehow) But that's okay, they know not to bother with my truck parts problem. Beyond that, I got -Leatherman Wave 8) -Several books/magazines encompassing a broad variety of topics -Monty Python's Flying Circus on DVD -Some clothes and socks -Misc small stuff

For Christmas! I don't know yet, I still haven't gone to bed.... PS, this is the 'official thread', since I've seen so many of them for other things and want on that band wagon!

Welcome to the club... Got any pics of the GMC K4500? :nuts:

And this is where we realize that when it comes to the number of available TV channels, quantity =/= quality. So, how long have you watched it for so far :???: ;)

Potential Vs Reality A teenager comes home from school with a writing assignment. He asks his father for help. "Dad, can you tell me the difference between potential and reality?" His father looks up, thoughtfully, and then says, "I'll display it to you. Go ask your mother if she would sleep with Robert Redford for a million dollars. Then go ask your sister if she would sleep with Brad Pitt for a million dollars. Then come back and tell me what you've learned." The kid is puzzled, but he decides to see if he can figure out what his father means. He asks his mother, "Mom, if someone gave you a million dollars, would you sleep with Robert Redford?" His mother looks around slyly, and then with a little smile on her face says, "Don't tell your father, but, yes, I would." Then he goes to his sisters room and asks her, "Sis, if someone gave you a million dollars, would you sleep with Brad Pitt?" His sister looks up and says, "Omigod! Definitely!" The kid goes back to his father and says, "Dad, I think I've figured it out. Potentially, we're sitting on two million bucks, but in reality, we're living with a couple of sluts." (I tell this joke a lot...)

Chevy made it easy. Or close. Clutch is mechanical. So you need the pedal and linkage. It's the same on all of the trucks, IIRC. Bellhousings are sold with transmissions, I'd tell anybody trying to sell me a tranny without just 'exactly' what they could do with the trans (unless it happened to be cheap enough that it was understood). Chevy 6er bolt pattern is the same as a SBC, and a BBC, as I recall. Also, I seem to think the flywheel is also the same between a 6er and a SBC, but I could be wrong. Regardless, you can get a clutch easy enough. The tcase will need a different input in it, and may or may not have other issues, all of which can be worked around by simply looking for a trans and tcase that are together (they often are). Automatics were more often to have NP203s, where as a manual more often got a NP205 (as a very 'loose' rule). So, there may be potential to upgrade there anyways. Driveshafts, you're on your own. I think they put the rear of the block in the same place regardless of motor (6er, SBC, BBC), so any other truck with the same trans/tcase should yield the correct driveshafts. It's early GM, just start sticking parts together. It normally works. That said, it would be easier just to put another slush box in. Or even to rebuild that one. They aren't smoke and mirrors, or even PFM.

Resistance is resistance. As long as either is within the spec of 35-500 ohms, you're good to go. Any of the bulbs will work, yours will just be brighter.

I'm normally a long way from the coast. So it does get bloody cold. -40 is normal in a lot of the places I work, and and it will get colder than that (-45 and windddddddddddddddddddddd). But, PG isn't bad, normally it only gets down to -35ish, -40 for a couple days at most, and often it hovers around -10 to -20 for most of the time. The suckers in Vancouver have it easy for the cold, -10 is about the limit, and not much of it at that, but it rains all the time. Victoria and the southern parts of the island is best. Like I said, I'd rather it snowed than rained. If it sits about -10 or colder, you won't get wet if you have half decent clothes. If you get wet, it's nasty. Probably the worst night of my life was doing an inspection on a helicopter (all night) in the coast mountains, it was fall and it hadn't gotten cold yet. Actually, it was probably the first snow fall of the year. Of course, it rained for about 3 hours before it turned to snow, so we were soaked long before the temperature went below freezing. Then we continued to slog it out in soaking gear and heavy snow fall. The next day was great, above freezing, no rain or snow, but the inspection was due the night before :doh:

I'd rather work in the snow than the rain. Although, they both suck. At least in the snow you can lay on the ground and not get wet (you just freeze to death instead).

Exactly.

No No No No No. Go USPS (United States Postal Service) if you can. UPS will charge a ridiculous 'brokerage fee', which often is as much as the part.

I hope you're joking... I can't wait for the death of the compass Theres a little fight to bring a "scrambler" to the table, but it wasn't included in the chrysler-fiat 5 year plan they released lately. (on a side note, if you haven't read that yet, you should http://www.allpar.com/corporate/chrysle ... -plan.html) They have a 'unibody pickup' in the works as a potential for 2011, under the 'Ram' lineup. Since they're a bunch of retards anyways; I could easily see somebody deciding it would sell better with 'Jeep' on the tailgate, if such a truck even featured something that one could actually call a tailgate (I have visions of a complicated 3-piece design consisting of mostly poorly fitting plastic parts). Looking at the direction they're taking with their engines, I would not be surprised if it featured a transverse mounted abomination coupled with a gearbox that could make a peugeot seem reliable. I imagine the use of plastic would also be quite prevalent in the driveline too, since it's economical and light weight. And what latte-sipping yuppie would even consider buying something with the 'harsh' ride of a solid axle? Hell, if they build another light truck I think we could all be happy if the actual usable payload capacity equated to more than a couple 2x4s. They're still better managed than GM.

They'll take stuff across the boarder? I didn't know that. They're normally the cheapest/easiest way to ship within the country...

The concept has been dead for a long time. It never had a chance anyways. It would compete directly with the dakota and 1500 series dodge trucks. But, I could see them redesigning it to be smaller, entirely unibody, not jeep appearing, and featuring IFS/IRS, FWD standard and 4WD optional. Something we could all be proud to call a jeep.

If it can go USPS it will be the cheapest option, even if it isn't flat rate. Expect there to be a COD (charge on delivery) for taxes and additional charges when it reaches you.

That was really cool, actually. I was thinking :nuts: at the start.

Fuel delivery issue to the carb...? What condition are the hoses in between the tank and a fuel pump? If I'm reading you correctly, you're getting air out of the fuel inlet, past the needle valve for float bowl fuel height? That air is being drawn into the fuel either at the pump (I'm assuming it's mechanical), or prior to it. It is common for the rubber hoses to deteriorate and produce pin hole leaks. At low fuel demand the leaks are minor, but as fuel demand increases an increasing amount of air is drawn in with the fuel, leading to fuel starvation and a stumble. Something as simple as a hose clamp being too loose can also cause the same problem.

Guys used to stop for fast food with the helicopters all the time... It's kinda frowned on now, but we'll still do it if there's an empty field or a large empty parking lot in a less populated area. It turns heads :rotf:

See how solid the floors are in the cab... Things might be shot there too. Lots more work that way. I don't know what the dimensions of the factory frame behind the cab are, but I'd try to get some HSS that matched that reasonably. I think it'd be 3x6~. Also, I'd recommend .125" for a wall thickness. And be prepared to scab/fishplate all of the joints. Oh yeah, check local regulations. What you're doing probably isn't legal. I don't care, but one should decide how much work they want to put into something that can be issued a VI and possibly never be driven on the road again.

I'd stick with a water/soap solution if there's a wood stove. I'm not exactly Mr Safety, but eventually something like that will catch up to you. I can't comment on how dish soap would work, since I've never tried it. However, I don't think it would be strong enough. :dunno:

I don't have one, buuuuut.... We've got 4 at work. Varsol in three, and the other one uses an organic soap and water mixture. I'd run a soap/water one for most of what I do myself. There's some really effective products out there now. Normally I'm washing stuff that's covered in dirt and oil anyways, not the inside of a transmission. Which is also why they have as many at work as they do, one runs only clean varsol and is only for transmissions and gearboxes, the others run much less clean varsol for general usage. Jet fuel works pretty good in place of varsol. I'm not sure what the price difference is like, jet-A is about $1.50 a liter.