DirtyComanche

Anyone got any ideas for a name? Gangrene? Or is that too negative?

Mine only went 65mph on my trailer. But I was towing it with a Cummins so I probably got better fuel economy than if I had been driving the MJ.

Unless you're getting some amazing deal on those axles, pass... No point swapping a LP front axle in, even if it will 'work'. I'm hoping that rear was at least an 8.25", because swapping a D35 would be a real waste of time.

I misread the OP. As Rockfrog says, try an earlier year. Or just get them to tell you what they have it listed as covering (if they aren't dorks). They likely have it in their computer wrong. Or their Chicom supplier is not building them to spec, in which case try another brand.

Since it is specific to the knuckle, you may have a replaced knuckle... They can break in even a minor accident. Try the newer one.

You can cut that 'sticky out thinger' off the tcase too, IIRC. It's not there for any purpose that matters to us.

Save more money and buy both?

Still seems odd. Likely the original hubs could have been turned down and drilled to 5x5.5, and the spindles bored for the 1.5" 35 spline shafts (if they even needed to be). But that's me, like I said, I love FF axles.

Why the semi-float conversion? I personally love full float axles...

Yeah, 87 seemed to be the year that they had them on the shelf and went "Shoot, we better stick these things in some Cherokees before they go bad." Picture only, or you don't know, things get changed over the years. I've bought vehicles only for one a couple parts in the past, swap them out with whatever you have on had and resell. I KNOW people would do that for an XJ D44. Personally I'm going to say you're better off with an Exploder 8.8. They are very plentiful, so they are cheap, and they are strong and have disk brakes.

It turns out I know the guy who owned it before the guy who I bought it off. There was a lot of thought put into it. I don't know if all of it was good thought, so I'll have to do some poking around. It's an 88, started as a 2wd, probably a 4cyl at that. He swapped the 4.0L and AX-15 in, I don't know what year any of that stuff came out of but it's a Renix setup and it has the dreaded C101? connector above the brake booster. Tow hooks were very likely added, I will have to see if the braces are installed, but I suspect he would have known to do that. I didn't check too close, but I'm sure the bucket seats were swapped in out of an XJ. Were those mirrors the factory option tow mirrors for a MJ? It has been converted to an open cooling system also. There is no windshield wiper reservoir, guess he just never got around to that. I don't know if he bondo'd the body or if he had bought it like that? He also tracked down the XJ D44 to swap into the rear of it, but he took a job in another town before he got it swapped in. There is a long 2wd driveshaft in the 'parts' truck (in it, as in it's in the bed), so I can have that cut down to either fit with the D35 or the D44 if I decide to swap it in. Or I'll see if I can find a SYE and go that route. I'll have to check gear ratios either way. But before I do anything to it I will have to decide what the plan is. And look at all the junk in the back to see if anything in there is good besides just the D44.

In my driveway. Image Not Found Drove on and off the trailer pretty well. Didn't even need to jump start it, just had to squish one of the lugs on the battery cable so it actually made decent connection.

Is there a single CPS out there that actually has the wires secured as in the picture?

I'd not worry about it since the head was replaced.

Pretty much. More driveway obstructions. Heaven forbid the sun should shine on the gravel,

Umm. Now the proud owner of two Comanches...

I have 2~ rusty FSJs also. They're in line before any Comanche project at this point. I really don't know what to say though. I'm betting he would go down to $1200 today. I could sell the XJ rear d44 for $400 easily. Arrrgh.

Price went down to $1500 for the two of them... hmm.

There's some nicer ones out of province, it might even be the best bet... Half tempted to phone this guy and see if he's starting to get desperate: http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/lethbridge/1987-jeep-comanche-pioneer-pickup-truck/1146589878?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true The one I looked at tonight was 'alllllllright.' It's been spray-bombed green over god knows what. I would call the box a write off, magnet didn't stick in all the usual places, feeling it up some of the paint flaked and I could see my flashlight shining through from the other side. :doh: Rockers are pretty done, but I can get over that since the floor and door sills were still solid. Clutch master leaked and ate the firewall, not the hardest repair in the world but it is time consuming. 4.0L ran nicely and has an AX-15 in it, so that's not bad. Clean basic grey interior with buckets. The guy seems fairly honest and was fine with me saying I needed a week to think about it. Parts truck has a title, box got crushed by a tree over 1' in diameter and MIGHT have tweaked the frame in the process. Sheetmeal on the cab looks okay on it too, not beyond the point of being able to be saved. Parts truck has no engine/trans. Also the package comes with a D44 that allegedly matches the front axle in the 'good' truck, just add a driveshaft to complete the 4wd swap. And probably 10 million little things. :rotf: Pic of the green one: Image Not Found He's asking $2500 for the both of them, I think it's steep. Asking and taking are two different things though. Honestly, part of me just wants the parts truck.

My '15 JKU runs pretty well for what it is Mine is a 3.8L rebadged minivan. Actually, the 2.5L 5spd base model XJ might give it a run for the money, if it was tuned up right with factory 28" tires. Let's just say I wouldn't put pinks on that race. :rotf:

What's notorious about the 4.0L? That it will outlast 90% of other engines? That it actually has low end torque? That it actually wasn't designed on a computer by somebody that never opened the hood of a vehicle nor would be able to? Get new PCV parts. Pull the valve cover and do the PCV mods and cleaning. Put the compression tester away. Drive it.

If anyone wants to hear my drivel... The diesel one wound up having nowhere near as clean of body as I hoped. Detailed pictures were sent and it would need a large repair around one of the doors, above at least one of the wheel wells on the box. and probably some work around the window seals. Basically, it was not 'clean and rust free' and didn't seem like it would be worth the hassle and added cost of going to get, given that I felt the engine is likely pooched. I had somebody with one minus a driveline, said the body was pretty near mint. Perfect, I have a spare everything from an XJ that could go somewhere. It's stored a couple hours out of town, and he says he's going out there and can get me a bunch of pictures. Alright... I was half tempted to just hitch the trailer up and take some cash since it's a nice drive anyways, but I actually lent my trailer out for the weekend. Last night I text him to ask if he took pictures "Oh, sorry, when I told the guy whose property it is on that I'm selling it, he bought it." Arrgh. There's another one that I might go look at tonight, if it works out. Comes with a parts truck. Pictures have already verified one rocker and cab corner is MIA other than the bondo. It's repainted, so I'm not sure what else is being hidden... And it's in the midst of a 4wd swap that has probably been going on for years, so who knows when it was last driven on the road. It just started snowing (was beautiful spring weather before), so I'm not sure that it will help me much. Honestly if the parts truck has a title it looks like it might be better, since it's factory paint so I'll at least know where the rust is. So, in short, I got nothing.

The ball joint axles have proven themselves... Basically if you air it out the uppers will get sloppy in short order, and if you're really hard on it they will actually start to pull out of the knuckle. There's a couple guys who have been boring out the knuckle and the taper bushing to run a lower ball joint in the upper for those reasons, but for 98% of users it isn't needed. I debated sending my knuckles out for it, but I can't justify it. And unlike the Ford kingpin knuckles, the ball joint ones rarely break in half. Kingpin Ford knuckles are notoriously weak, and on used axles (not wheeled) it is common to find them cracking if you look closely. Throw big tires at them and go wheeling and they break in short order. To do everything over again (and stay with 1-tons) I would just buy a F-Superduty D60, preferably the F-450 and bigger version, and be done. 35 spline inners, outers, and hubs, large unit bearings that actually last, low profile hub design due to the unit bearings, bigger/better ring gear, massive u-joints in the axleshafts, etc. ftpiercecracker1, have you tried phoning heavy truck wreckers? Places that do semis and equipment... The ones around here seem to get 1-ton trucks fairly often.

I can't stand driving the 2.5L... They make my JK seem fast. Is there any glass left in that thing?

I had a 99ish Dodge 1-ton 4wd diesel on my trailer, thought it was in gear (swore I checked), undid the straps and kicked the chocks. It took off and mangled my ramps on the way off, then mowed over some trees before coming to a stop... Was really glad I didn't get caught up in that thing when it went. Be careful...