DirtyComanche

You want the correct engagement. If too short it may pull apart otherwise, which will probably destroy your driveshaft and perhaps your fuel tank and various other things. Conversely if you push the yoke in to try to make up for that, you might bottom it and break the tcase. I'd probably just order a SYE at this point.

I'm guessing that intake is discontinued. Can't seem to find anywhere that has it available. I'm debating doing something like it with my renix setup, but it's a little more of a pain to adapt to the throttle body on them.

The u-joints should be the same, assuming factory driveshafts.

The land of syrup, moose, asking politely for independence, and cheap Svt-40s.

It's only worth it to get rid of the stock airbox.

I don't think cutting down the slip yoke on the driveshaft was a good idea.

That sucks. Hopefully the justice system actually delivers.

I'm surprised you can find a rear D44 easily, but since you can I would say it's the best way to go. 35s are the marginal limit of a D30. At that point there is a lot of factors to consider. Wheeling style, power, weight, actual behavior of any added traction device, extra reduction, etc. With the gear style in the earlier D30s you will be able to break the ring and pinion at that point, and good aftermarket chromoly axleshafts, u-joints and a full case locker/spool will pretty much guarantee that outcome. If you're just going to tool around on trails, stock engine trans/tcase, I would not worry about it too much. If you want to do more than that I would go another route. Even the JK axle route, they changed how they cut the gears in them and they will actually hold up to 35s at a 5000lb operating weight. So, define what you intend to do and I will give you a more specific recommendation. Since you're regearing past the carrier split I can only assume you intend to buy a traction device.

The other problem is some of the 'obsolete' stuff is basically only made by Timken at this point. I suppose if there is a hole in the market that the Chicom manufacturers will pick up the slack though.

Are they actually going to cease production of all old bearings, or just not pursue contracts with OEMs in those sectors? If they cease production on old P/Ns of bearings, it will be ugly.

Sorry, it's a T50. I have an impact set, T30-T70 and E10-E22. Worth every penny.

T-45, IIRC. Might be a T-55 though. I'm going out to the shop right now so I'll check.

Anyone got any ideas for a name? Gangrene? Or is that too negative?

Mine only went 65mph on my trailer. But I was towing it with a Cummins so I probably got better fuel economy than if I had been driving the MJ.

Unless you're getting some amazing deal on those axles, pass... No point swapping a LP front axle in, even if it will 'work'. I'm hoping that rear was at least an 8.25", because swapping a D35 would be a real waste of time.

I misread the OP. As Rockfrog says, try an earlier year. Or just get them to tell you what they have it listed as covering (if they aren't dorks). They likely have it in their computer wrong. Or their Chicom supplier is not building them to spec, in which case try another brand.

Since it is specific to the knuckle, you may have a replaced knuckle... They can break in even a minor accident. Try the newer one.

You can cut that 'sticky out thinger' off the tcase too, IIRC. It's not there for any purpose that matters to us.

Save more money and buy both?

Still seems odd. Likely the original hubs could have been turned down and drilled to 5x5.5, and the spindles bored for the 1.5" 35 spline shafts (if they even needed to be). But that's me, like I said, I love FF axles.

Why the semi-float conversion? I personally love full float axles...

Yeah, 87 seemed to be the year that they had them on the shelf and went "Shoot, we better stick these things in some Cherokees before they go bad." Picture only, or you don't know, things get changed over the years. I've bought vehicles only for one a couple parts in the past, swap them out with whatever you have on had and resell. I KNOW people would do that for an XJ D44. Personally I'm going to say you're better off with an Exploder 8.8. They are very plentiful, so they are cheap, and they are strong and have disk brakes.

It turns out I know the guy who owned it before the guy who I bought it off. There was a lot of thought put into it. I don't know if all of it was good thought, so I'll have to do some poking around. It's an 88, started as a 2wd, probably a 4cyl at that. He swapped the 4.0L and AX-15 in, I don't know what year any of that stuff came out of but it's a Renix setup and it has the dreaded C101? connector above the brake booster. Tow hooks were very likely added, I will have to see if the braces are installed, but I suspect he would have known to do that. I didn't check too close, but I'm sure the bucket seats were swapped in out of an XJ. Were those mirrors the factory option tow mirrors for a MJ? It has been converted to an open cooling system also. There is no windshield wiper reservoir, guess he just never got around to that. I don't know if he bondo'd the body or if he had bought it like that? He also tracked down the XJ D44 to swap into the rear of it, but he took a job in another town before he got it swapped in. There is a long 2wd driveshaft in the 'parts' truck (in it, as in it's in the bed), so I can have that cut down to either fit with the D35 or the D44 if I decide to swap it in. Or I'll see if I can find a SYE and go that route. I'll have to check gear ratios either way. But before I do anything to it I will have to decide what the plan is. And look at all the junk in the back to see if anything in there is good besides just the D44.

In my driveway. Image Not Found Drove on and off the trailer pretty well. Didn't even need to jump start it, just had to squish one of the lugs on the battery cable so it actually made decent connection.

Is there a single CPS out there that actually has the wires secured as in the picture?