DirtyComanche

Not all 89s have the AX-15. It's a mid year change. So don't think you're safe from the Peugeot just by buying an 89.

I know the ECM can guess correctly without it. Any long term issues of doing that? Or have half of them failed and nobody ever realized it?

For only $6 more I could have got a complete distributor. Durr.

Yup, Rockauto has it listed wrong. Arg.

Where is "here"for you? Canada. All the truckers use VHF FM too, normally they're on Lad 1 or Lad 2, or whatever their company channel is, even if they're just hauling on the highway. The railways use it too, so you can listen to see if they're running a train in your area (if you need to cross), or you can potentially call them and get them to relay if you have an emergency. Same with the highways crews. Need a medivac? The responding helicopter, ambulance, SAR, etc, will have VHF FM. Basically, CB is dead, stemming from it not being used commercially and not being regulated. There isn't much point having a radio if there isn't anyone that will answer you.

I ordered a bunch of spare electrical parts because my credit card wasn't maxed. The cam position/sync sensor has listed on it that it's for a 2.5L 84-90... Did I get the wrong one? Intended application is a 89 4.0L. Googling doesn't look good. Omix-Ada 17241.02

I use a handheld VHF FM. A face programmable Icom that cost a pretty penny. I keep looking for a good used Tad M10, because that would be easier to use and have better range. People do not use CB here as it is quite useless, all radio controlled roads are VHF FM within 138-174MHz.

the short beds have the "X" cross brace also. Yup. Not quite the same shape. I don't know if there is space behind it for one or not. Honestly, the factory put the tank in a pretty reasonable location.

They are not all the same, you have to pick through them. I know guys that have been using them for years, eventually you have to go through the trucks at the wrecker and find another when you wear it out. Would I use one in a shop? No. But I'd rather not carry another 100lb jack with me, since I already have a bumper jack and strap that can lift an axle if need be.

The OEM scissor jacks from larger trucks (Dodge foolsize seems to be a good place to find them) work really good for that as long as you build a base for them. They're lighter than a floor jack.

I had a local place pull a rear window for me. The had no qualms, even when I told them it wasn't exactly something that could be replaced. Look for a glass shop that's run by a bunch of greasy old chain smokers, they're your guys.

Oh, watch for the driver side top door hinge tearing off. Pretty common. Check the other ones and the strikers. They're easy to fix, providing you can weld sheetmetal. And always check the around the steering box for cracks.

Personally I'd just look for rust, body damage, and cracks. Everything else can be fixed, IMHO, and often for not a lot of money. Check for rust on the firewall at the clutch master and brake master, if they're leaking the brake fluid peels the paint and causes rust. It's not a huge amount of fun to repair, but not the worst repair to have to do. Paint bubbling around the window seals (front or back) isn't a good sign, worse if it's full on rust bubbles. As said, floor pans and wheel wells. If the front fenders are starting to bubble around the flares, at least you can get them. The box, not so easy. Look up and inside the box, it rusts from the inside out, hard to fix. If the battery has leaked at any point, the area around and under the battery tray will be rusted. Potentially quite badly. The good news is it's not that hard to fix since you can cut the section out of an XJ, the bad news is it's still a time consuming repair. Rockers, cab corners, and the pinch seam under the door tend to be a problem. I replace them with tubing, but again, time consuming repair. If the seat brackets are rusted, the floors are probably pretty bad too... Doors at least can be stolen from an XJ. There was another place I wanted to say to look for rust, but it's not coming to me.

Buy whichever one is the longest and on sale? I have a Hi-Lift and a Maasdam Jack-All. Both are quality units. The Maasdam does not have a removable handle, which is a bit of a minus, but I've honestly never been in a situation where it have been handy to remove the handle or anything like that. The Hi-Lift has more features in general, it came with a spring clip to hold the handle up and an attachment for the top for pulling. Neither are really needed, I made a wire clip for the Maasdam, and I always carried the correct shackles and chain to use it for pulling, without needing any attachment on it. I always bring a scrap of plywood to use as a base in soft mud, or you could buy the base Hi-Lift sells. There's a fab shop that's part of RuffStuff that sells a really nifty base now too, actually. Come up with a way to secure it so it doesn't walk away... Or hit you in the head if your truck stops suddenly/rolls/etc.

My XJ had one. The PO removed the bulbs from every single interior light on it for some reason. I haven't had time to dig into it, but I'm assuming one of the door switches is stuck/bad.

If the angles are right it won't vibrate. But unless it's a pavement princess I would be getting a SYE.

That one was pretty bad. I need to look at the other one I have in more depth. A tree fell on it. Unfortunately it might meet a fate like this one.

The 3 piece/slider windows I have all seen are glued in. But I'm sure there's more than one style. I absolutely hate everything to do with glass and would pay to have it done. Granted, I did manage to cut the windshield out of my parts Dodge Ram and install it in the other one without breaking it.

That's more Eagle's comment. :D But here's what I will tell you, all the early XJ/MJs (with 4.0L engines) used the highest pressure TC style steering pump that was available. They can also be turned up more safely... However, IF you install a reman pump you may get ANY TC pump back, as they are all 'the same' in the opinion of the people who overhaul them. Also, many of the remans do NOT bench test them for pressure output, or if they do they have a very wide acceptable range. The factory new pumps had the regulators adjusted to +/-25PSI of spec, IIRC. The remans are obviously nowhere near this level of quality. I believe the TJ pumps were also the best of the TC pumps. If you swapped a worn out, or bad reman, for a good factory pump I KNOW you would see a difference, as it could easily be as much as 30% more pressure from the good pump VS the marginal one. 4cyl TJ pumps also came with a remote reservoir, if somebody needs that to address packaging issues. It's somewhat less than ideal with a 3/8 supply line, but it work for factory type applications. The WJ pump with the factory hydraulic fan is even more hot-rodded than the other Jeep ones, they ported it for high flow and installed a different reservoir to reduce cavitation issues. Pressure remains the same though. Now, if you go and buy a reman version of these, you might just get a junk TC pump with the WJ fittings on it, which actually would be really far from ideal as it would probably cavitate in any application.

^^^ This is my issue with the spacer, 3 holes or 4? Three holes, and it's just a beefy spacer. Four holes and its a stronger steering box mount/spacer because it's bolted through the frame to whatever you have on the other side (like mine will be, I'm in this process right now with the 88 along with a winch bumper). My 4 hole spacer when mounted to the box, has no adjustment because of the three steering box holes in the frame, then causes the the fourth hole to not line up. Are you not using the fourth hole? My plan, bolt up the three, drill across from the outside, pick up the fourth. Kind of think not using the fourth hole gives away structural strength. Weld that plate on if you want it to be really making a difference. The 4th hole is too far away for it to matter anyways, given the direction of the forces that are being applied to it, if you're just to bolt it on. That said, as long as the other side has a plate on it, and the holes are to a reasonable tolerance (something the factory got wrong), you should be fine with it just bolted on there. I would slip (read that as file or die grind) the holes in the frame so that plate can be aligned correctly to use the 4th hole... Then make sure the plate on the outside is drilled absolutely correctly for where the holes need to be. Most guys were seeing loss of torque on the bolts before they really started tearing up their frame. The poor tolerances of the factory holes along with the aluminum spacer deteriorating were often to blame. Also, remember that just because a bolt feels tight, as in it can't easily be removed, does not mean it actually has the correct torque (tension) on it; instead it may simply be seized into the steering box or retained by the factory thread locker. The factory steering box bolts also featured high tolerance hardened washers for a reason, it was the band-aid for the poor tolerance on the holes, be sure you retain them. The other real big secret, which I don't know of the aftermarket actually addressing (I don't buy fabricated parts much, so I am not always up on what is available), is to tie the outer steering box brace into the bracket for the track bar. I don't have a picture of how it is done on my XJ, and I am packaging things differently than most people would, but the whole point is that as your steering is pushing the axle around, the same force is transmitted back through the track bar, so by tying the two of them together you are addressing the critical area. Most aftermarket track bar brackets are a garbage clone of the factory design, which was adequate for the intended usage and lifespan of the vehicle, however it is less than ideal when larger/heavier tires/wheels/axles are thrown at the vehicle. Mine is tied in from the 4 factory attachment points plus all of the steering box bolt holes and bumper/tow hook holes (and I welded the thing on). Basically, I don't want excessive movement in this area, as it is a high stress area, and movement will result in metal fatigue and lose of torque on fasteners.

Chrysler then went the other way with that. My JK has damn near zero feel to it. Drive it, get used to it, learn to love it. But yes, the early XJ/MJs have very light steering if everything is working correctly. That's a big if though.

The bearing supports for the sector shafts are a gimmick. Yes, they're popular, people say they work wonders, but hear me out. Once you're seeing the levels of force required for it to be doing anything, you will instead see a torsional failure of the sector shaft. The way the box is built from the factory it is very capable of taking the load applied to it, as well, that's what it was designed to do. You won't see a failure of the frame rail with it properly plated on each side; beyond that you need hydro assist or better.

I've seen XJ/MJ boxes blown apart and I don't see how they could be variable. I also have seen no reason to believe they are based on all the stupid things I have done trying to make steering work. I also don't feel they drive wrong. Anything you're noticing while driving them is the result of the pitman arm being a different length than the steering arms, but the effect is fairly minimal. The factory didn't always get it wrong.

Looks good. However, if you want it to be quite a bit stronger, I recommend you add pieces to it like this: Image Not Found I'd say the red ones for sure, the blue ones are a bit more optional. Unless it really is just for looks. Otherwise the pieces that are sticking out will get bent rather easily. As I said, it's more about design than materials.

Not butthurt, just have zero use for installing a downgrade. The front driveshaft is so nicely protected on a HP setup, and the angles are so much more happy. Going to a LP front axle throws the driveshaft right into the fodder zone, unless you have really low mounted control arms. Either way, the operating angle increases by a couple degrees and you get closer to maxing the double cardon out. All u-joints live longer if they are 'working' (misaligning) less. Economics will sway me though, but my wheeler has a HP D60 in it for a reason.