DirtyComanche

Not all aftermarket glass is the same thickness either.

Check your fuses? And fuseable links?

Do what Hornbrod says. Or move the swaybar forwards via poorboy methods, which is to drill new holes and either slip tabbed bolts in, or use a threaded insert, or slip in a nutplate. The factory put the swaybar too close to the coils to begin with, IMHO, it only gets worse if you move the axle around any or are playing with the pinion angle.

Both of you guys see good hot summer weather, eh? Do you have any other mods that might be relevant, such as hood vents? I've been out of the Jeep stuff for a while, so I don't remember lots of things, but was there major documentation of early HO engines having heat soak issues? I'm still messing with the exhaust, so the intake isn't back on yet anyways.

IMHO it's a supporting mod. You do supporting mods so your other mods work correctly or better. This is a low compression 'truck' engine, the factory ignition system is beyond adequate for that. So, does anyone make one anyways? Not much point getting excited if there isn't one. Although I'm sure you could adapt something else to work.

Spoke too soon, they sent me a FedEx Ground label. There isn't such a thing here. I'll call them back tomorrow, I've run out of care right now.

I recently purchased a cam position/sync sensor off them, they had it listed as fitting the 4.oh when it actually is for the 2.5. Since their automated return process doesn't work well for this, I simply called them and explained what was up. 2 minutes on the phone, the guy looked up the part and went "Yup, that ain't right. I'll email you a prepaid return shipping label." 1 minute after hanging up the phone there was return instructions and a label in my email. I'm guessing they set their automated return thinger up that way to prevent abuse.

I debated wrapping the header. My tick with the heat shield, other than being ugly, is it's effectively an intake manifold heater. Not that I should care too much about performance at this point, but I'd like to wake the motor up a bit because I think I'm on the bad side of the power/weight ratio for snow. It being ugly isn't a big deal, everything under the hood on this thing is ugly. When I go it there was probably more oil on the outside of the engine than in it. A piece of clean stainless would look a lot better though.

Well, that's a reassuring thing to find.

I'll put it back on then. Too bad it's so ugly.

Is it kosher to remove and discard the intake manifold heat shield on the Renix 4.0L? I assume it is there to help prevent overheating the injectors or fuel rail, however the HO does not have one and has no such issues. I'm just plugging away at a header swap right now, and debated removing the heat shield as it might make it easier to put the intake back on. If it serves no practical purpose I would rather do away with it permanently.

Nifty, well I won't worry about getting a spare. Tempted to get a whole disty though, but I really don't need one (even as a spare).

Not all 89s have the AX-15. It's a mid year change. So don't think you're safe from the Peugeot just by buying an 89.

I know the ECM can guess correctly without it. Any long term issues of doing that? Or have half of them failed and nobody ever realized it?

For only $6 more I could have got a complete distributor. Durr.

Yup, Rockauto has it listed wrong. Arg.

Where is "here"for you? Canada. All the truckers use VHF FM too, normally they're on Lad 1 or Lad 2, or whatever their company channel is, even if they're just hauling on the highway. The railways use it too, so you can listen to see if they're running a train in your area (if you need to cross), or you can potentially call them and get them to relay if you have an emergency. Same with the highways crews. Need a medivac? The responding helicopter, ambulance, SAR, etc, will have VHF FM. Basically, CB is dead, stemming from it not being used commercially and not being regulated. There isn't much point having a radio if there isn't anyone that will answer you.

I ordered a bunch of spare electrical parts because my credit card wasn't maxed. The cam position/sync sensor has listed on it that it's for a 2.5L 84-90... Did I get the wrong one? Intended application is a 89 4.0L. Googling doesn't look good. Omix-Ada 17241.02

I use a handheld VHF FM. A face programmable Icom that cost a pretty penny. I keep looking for a good used Tad M10, because that would be easier to use and have better range. People do not use CB here as it is quite useless, all radio controlled roads are VHF FM within 138-174MHz.

the short beds have the "X" cross brace also. Yup. Not quite the same shape. I don't know if there is space behind it for one or not. Honestly, the factory put the tank in a pretty reasonable location.

They are not all the same, you have to pick through them. I know guys that have been using them for years, eventually you have to go through the trucks at the wrecker and find another when you wear it out. Would I use one in a shop? No. But I'd rather not carry another 100lb jack with me, since I already have a bumper jack and strap that can lift an axle if need be.

The OEM scissor jacks from larger trucks (Dodge foolsize seems to be a good place to find them) work really good for that as long as you build a base for them. They're lighter than a floor jack.

I had a local place pull a rear window for me. The had no qualms, even when I told them it wasn't exactly something that could be replaced. Look for a glass shop that's run by a bunch of greasy old chain smokers, they're your guys.

Oh, watch for the driver side top door hinge tearing off. Pretty common. Check the other ones and the strikers. They're easy to fix, providing you can weld sheetmetal. And always check the around the steering box for cracks.

Personally I'd just look for rust, body damage, and cracks. Everything else can be fixed, IMHO, and often for not a lot of money. Check for rust on the firewall at the clutch master and brake master, if they're leaking the brake fluid peels the paint and causes rust. It's not a huge amount of fun to repair, but not the worst repair to have to do. Paint bubbling around the window seals (front or back) isn't a good sign, worse if it's full on rust bubbles. As said, floor pans and wheel wells. If the front fenders are starting to bubble around the flares, at least you can get them. The box, not so easy. Look up and inside the box, it rusts from the inside out, hard to fix. If the battery has leaked at any point, the area around and under the battery tray will be rusted. Potentially quite badly. The good news is it's not that hard to fix since you can cut the section out of an XJ, the bad news is it's still a time consuming repair. Rockers, cab corners, and the pinch seam under the door tend to be a problem. I replace them with tubing, but again, time consuming repair. If the seat brackets are rusted, the floors are probably pretty bad too... Doors at least can be stolen from an XJ. There was another place I wanted to say to look for rust, but it's not coming to me.