DirtyComanche

I don't think there's such a thing as a break even engine swap, unless you start with a vehicle with very minimal value (like my 86 that didn't come with an engine/trans) and then perform the most junkyard of swaps imaginable. If you want to do things clean, nice, and correct, just the 'little things' will easily add up to more than the vehicle can be resold for. Just swapping a 4L from an XJ can get expensive, since it typically turns into a large case of 'while we're in here.' Something like an LS swap I would be happy if resale was 50% of the money 'invested.' It reminds me of one of my friends coming over and looking at my "built" (sorta) XJ and saying "Wow, you probably could sell this thing for way more than you have into it!" Uh, no, I've got $10K+ in it, and it's a budget build that I might be able to sell for $5k. And that's not counting thousands of hours of labour.

The LJ probably would be comparable, if anything the LJ is heavier and would be more sluggish. Careful if you're using a big lift 258 cam, they are not that reliable.

Were you happy with previous power levels or do you want more?

Guys use the diesel oil because they believe it has a higher zinc content and that the zinc is good for the cam. Most of the diesel oils score worse on actual shear pressure testing, I believe because of the additive package being tailored towards dealing with the diesel combustion byproducts and having to be DPF friendly. Zinc (ZDDP) content is also all over the map with diesel oils (and gas oils). Also, when zinc concentrations reach a certain point it will become massively corrosive. This is quite possible to do with some of the break in/long life additives that are available if they are used excessively. There's also some chlorine based additives that will result in spectacular shear pressure results, but again, they're probably going to do bad things in the long run regarding corrosion. IMHO it isn't going to matter that much, there's millions of these engines running around with whatever the cheapest stuff the 10 minute oil change sells in them, with very few failures.

I use Mobil 1 high mileage synthetic 5w30. At least while it's cold. Plan to switch to the same 10w30 if we ever have a summer. You could probably buy the cheapest oil possible and as long as you change it and the filter somewhat regularly you won't have an issue.

I'd try the Eastwood product personally: http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle-qt.html You may want to drill a few more small holes in the channel to help get in there better. Everything else would be an insane PITA to do, and short of actually drilling the welds out a removing the piece I doubt you would get any better of results.

How often do you need to adjust it? Once, and then... Never?

I hadn't checked on this in a bit. Huge progress, and looking really good. I'm curious to see how that ZJ tank fits. What's your plans for a radiator? And is the exhaust looking like it will fit easy enough?

I assumed it was a 4L, 87 shouldn't be a V6... But it could be a 2.5L.

Read through Cruiser's tips here: http://cruiser54.com/ You'll want to work you way through the first 8 or so as you have time, and some of the other ones... Just cleaning up connections and grounds will probably help some things. Flush your brakes and make sure the brake and clutch master aren't leaking, they will wreck stuff if they are. Otherwise, update your signature to include a description of your truck, it will make it easier for other people to help you as you ask more questions in the future.

Your AW4 already has overdrive. It might not indicate it on the PRNDL, I don't know, I've never owned an XJ/MJ with a column shift. It's the same transmission as in your XJ, basically. You can swap a floor shifter in if you pull the shifter, cables, console, etc from an XJ that's configured that way, I believe there is at least a couple writeups here on doing it.

Good aftermarket gauges are fine, if anything they're a little more accurate than you need. Cheap ones are not. The factory ones are plenty good though and can be had for relatively little money.

The AW4 one is not as ridiculous as the AX-15 one.

Yeah, no impacting lug nuts on. Just use a torque wrench. Make sure the studs on there are in good shape and long enough too; I had to change out the ones on my rear D44 because they were a bit too short.

Vacuum leak is a good place to start... But could be as easy as the sensor grounds. Or the disty is worn out, or the wires are old, etc. I doubt there's anything seriously wrong with it. Buy it and do all of Cruiser's tips, along with replacing the plugs/wires/disty, and retorque the intake/exhaust manifold bolts. Talk the seller down because of the misfire.

What year is the truck?

I have the G2 adapters. They're cheap, but I don't see any issues with their quality. Just make sure you heed the warnings with adapters. Make sure everything is clean when it goes together, use the locktite, and torque check them within 100 miles, and check them every time the tires come off.

Mine isn't even as complicated as any of the ones that are commercially available. You could buy any generic small rod end for very little money from a good hardware store (the ones I used retail for about $500/each, don't buy them). So far I've had no issues with it, shifts nicely, hits all the gates how it should, hasn't disengaged on me (and I have a motor mount that needs to be changed). If it wallows out the hole in the stock shifter handle I will pull it and put a doubler of some sort on it.

Got the speakers today and threw them in. Turns out there was already some 6.5" Alpines in the door, but they're cheap junk. Night and day difference between them and the Polks. I then realized there is actually rear speakers installed. Hmm. Might have to look into what else can fit in there. Also I should probably change the door pins in the driver's side, and the striker has busted a bunch of the spot welds, and I definitely need a new door seal... That might cut down on noise a bit which would be nice.

There isn't enough of them out there to get an accurate price point. Price would vary wildly depending how clean the rest of the truck is, other mods that were done, and how well the swap was done and with what exact components.

I think this thread had good intention but is probably more harmful than helpful at this point. :doh:

Yeah, I saw they had good reviews and figured Polk generally makes good stuff. I think they should pretty much just drop into the hole in the door anyways, so it should be easy.

The stereo sucks. I'm not picky, but it's like listening to one of those tin can and string dealios back when I was a kid and Al Gore was still inventing the internet. So I'm ordering these: https://www.amazon.ca/Polk-Audio-DB651-6-5-Inch-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486969317&sr=8-1&keywords=db651

It's there for driveshaft clearance. If you're not lifted, you need it. There is massive gouge marks in mine because the exhaust was redone without it.

That looks bad. I'd guess there is more to the story though. I'd suggest doing a leakdown test to confirm that there is definitely dead cylinders. Or take the head off and just visual things. If it is dead, find another 4L. The 87-90 Renix version would be the most direct swap, but you can use a HO from an XJ Cherokee or ZJ Grand up until they stopped building them, but be careful with TJ/WJ engines as the later ones have different mount bosses on the block. To make the CPS work if you're using a HO engine you have to retain the flywheel or flexplate you have.