Kenosha Warrior

Yep, they be dummy lights. So, the main sensors you need are the Temp Sender on the back of the head and the oil pressure sensor. As for the p/n's I'm at a loss.

As am I. Ill scan the doodles and ideas Ive thrown onto paper in the morning anyhow.

thats what I plan on doing and then modifying it to work with my application and idea. I'm not going to re-invent the wheel, I'm making the wheel neater.

hey now there pal, I legitimately gotcha lol. You werent going to do the standard shifter as the control mech :P this is a bit of a ways off, soon as I can muster my first 2 years tuition ($4000) then this project will fly. Until then, plans and drawings.

JeepCo explained it perfectly. But I still want it to look like a factory truck, so thats where the clutch pedal being retrofitted to control the t/c lockup instead of the button on the automatic shifter.

Interesting. Do you plan on retaining the NSS? All the AW4 drive circuits (1-2-D-OD) are routed through the NSS, so you would need a 4-speed shifter. And Park, Neutral, and Reverse are mechanically operated by the shift cable, so I'm fuzzy how this could be done too. :popcorn: I'm taking a floor shifter and hiding it in the center console. pop the console lid, shift from park, rev, whatever. I'm just going to take a shift tower and gate it so it will only go to the 4 positions.

Ever seen BrettM's electronic AW-4 controller? It sets up the control of the transmission's gears as a manual selection. The trans won't shift automatically, its left up to the driver. What I'm trying to do is instead of a bank of switches to control the upshift/downshift and t/c lockup features is to use the parts from a manual trans truck and have the gear positions as intermediate switches, so 1st gear position of the shift tower = first gear of the AW-4, the electric contact would tell the trans 1'st gear please. Someone else can jump in and explain the workings of the AW-4 controller and such as I'm not good at explaining that idea.

thread-jack x2 What part of Ontario are you in?

So in talking with JeepCoMJ on MSN tonite, I hit on an idea. I want to take a shifter tower, modify it so it sits in a bracket and the first 4 forward speeds are contacts that control the gear selection that the switches in the AW-4 controller kit essentially control. The clutch pedal will control T/C lockup. The next part is using a bucket seat/full console setup and cut down a floor shifter and hide it in the center console. The final should essentially look like a factory standard trans truck but with the coolest setup I could think of to control that AW-4

yeah. it was the ballast resistor. bought a new one from crappy tire and its running good, not getting superheated and such. def the issue from day damn one. argh. I checked the FP with the schrader valve, had 34psi at idle, revving it brought me up to around 40ish. The fuel filter is brand new and I even tried it without the filter on it for a bit, no change with new filter/no filter but old filter was disgusting. I had black gas being shook out of it.

well, lets hear some ideas. This is what is exactly happenig. I can start it fine, if its cold. Run it up to op-temp and then around 10 minutes later, I will give it throttle and it will sputter, like a misfire but not as violent. within as little as 5 minutes or as long as 25 minutes, it will start to make less and less power, eventually I can barely make it move the XJ in first gear. ideas? Fuel Filter is out of the equation.

alrighty then, may as well try a new one. never hurts.

So mine crapped out, when it gets too warm, it starts messing with my FP. CUtting in and out, along with a half-shot fuel filter, made for a $#!&ty-running 4.0. Now Ive got all that bypassed, and now I need to know something. The ballast resistor, is it ok to run without it? I just want to solder those wires together and call it good.

How far can you pull out the clusterbefore the speedo cable becomes tight? Ive got the same issue with my gas guage. It sits flat level pointing at the speedo and when I get to 1/4 tank or less, it moves around like an electrocuted drunk.

Get down near the bell housing on the drivers side and unplug the CPS, plug it back and and see what happens. Oh, more info like auto or stick?

Be safe and remember Pics or ban! :cheers:

when ambition and the time to do it arrives, I'm making a writeup for it. Till then, its in someone else's glove.

Ive got about 3" of forward movement when I unbolt the fuse block. What I'm going to do, is 1 by 1, take a terminal, cut each wire 1 by 1 and match it with the new block, but Ive got a twist. I'm remounting the fuse block where the little speaker grille is by my left knee. Water and Clutch fluid will (hopefully) never reach it. Its a tedious process thats for sure. Ive got to extend each wire 1ft.

Start from the top. Buy a new master. Bench Bleed it, then bleed your brakes as per usual. My MJ did the same thing and Bendix Masters, from experience, will do that with age and being sat around. don't kid yourself when it comes to brakes. A new master will whip this into oblivion.

If I ram on the brakes, mine will puff a bit of oilsmoke from the few drips that meet the exhaust crossover pipe under where my rear main is leaking. The oilsmoke will go backwards and up through the engine bay.

sort of a hijack. rotors on a D30 (4x4) just slid over the hub correct, no ripping things all apart?

But though, if I connect the reg. to the vac port. The jeep runs sluggish, won't accel at ALL, sputters and stumbles through all gears and I can't give it any throttle if there is load on the engine.

I wanna wire it up for a manual switch. How would I go about doing this? Its already wired in for the stock setup but I want to be able to control it. No real reason, I just like being able to control my rig the way I like. hints, tips? where's the best power source or can I just slam a switch in there as a splice?

So my pressure regulator is fawked?

I unplugged the vac line running from the Intake Manif and going to the Fuel Pressure Regulator on the fuel rail, right at the front of the motor. If I plug the manifold nipple with my thumb, it idles like crap and bogs down with any load on the motor. If I leave it open, the jeep runs like a raped ape. What gives?