big66440

Just got mine yesterday and mine also goes to 4.98V and open loop at idle, it fluctuates within the 2 volt range during cruising from what I've been able to see. It wills lowly begin climbing to 4.98V at a red light if I'm idling long enough :hmm:

I'd be interested in doing the same thing, I searched on line a while back and found a guy that swapped that birds nest with a newer style ( XJ ) fuse box but didn't give info on what amp fuse he used for what circuit.

Just an FYI, I got my new Mopar CPS and was extremely disappointed to see " Made in Taiwan" on the bag.

My CPS was soldered directly to the ECM, I guess there was a TSB to bypass the "harness" so the ECM gets a stronger signal according to some bits of info I found?. I placed an order for a new Mopar CPS ( Part Number T0739789 ) and have 2 Delphi weatherpack connectors to do it right. I'm planning on modifying the new sensor to advance the timing and drill the holes to get it closer to the flex plate to cover all the bases.

Thanks Hornbrod :cheers:

Hey that write up looks familiar :yes:

Which solenoid is that?

I ran the 710's for at least 2 years, then I recently got a pair of the famous 746's and my truck is running noticeably better and it seems it's getting better fuel mileage. Unfortunarely I didnt document anything but my daily route is almost the same and I have noticed a small improvement.

Good question, I will check that as soon as I have a chance and report back. How long should I crank the motor to get a voltage reading? should the reading be steady?

Sick and tired of everyone getting "hurt" and offended over everything lately, :shake:. I hope Jeep seriously considers offering a regular cab short bed version of it :drool:

^^^^ Did all of that, everything checked out. I've tried 2 different fuel pressure gauges too and everything was within specs and held pressure even after shutting it off for at least an hour . The funny thing about this issue is it is a lot worse when I try to start it for the 1st time after it's been sitting all night ( or a very long period of time) and the weather is cold, it almost seems like the ECM isn't getting a signal to enrich the fuel injector pulse for a cold start. Once the engine gets even a bit warm I can start it up without a problem, it's less evident during hot summer months but still needs to be cranked longer than necessary when the trucks been sitting for a while ( overnight ).

^^^^^^Yes I sure have and they are within factory shop manual specs.

I have to crank my engine for at least 5-10 seconds ( sometimes more than once) every time the engine is cold. I've done all of Cruisers tips, replaced the coolant temp sensor with a brand new Mopar one, tried several junk yard IAT sensors and not a single one has been able to fix my problem. Once my engine gets even the slightest bit warm it'll start right up :???: That is also the sign of a failing fuel pump or regulator. I've tried priming the heck out of the system many times to build pressure to diagnose the regulator and injectors without success, still does exactly the same thing.

Don't know for sure but for MJ's the 95-96 XJ Cherokee or WJ Grand Cherokee booster/master cylinder combinations are the most popular. There's lots of info on the net that covers swapping them in. XJ's, ZJ's and WJ's all have a 1" bore master cylinder so doing the guess work on piston ratios is unnecessary. I'm personally using a 96 XJ booster/MC, WJ front brakes and ZJ rear disc's and my truck will do a front flip if I slam on the brakes fast enough :yes:

I have to crank my engine for at least 5-10 seconds ( sometimes more than once) every time the engine is cold. I've done all of Cruisers tips, replaced the coolant temp sensor with a brand new Mopar one, tried several junk yard IAT sensors and not a single one has been able to fix my problem. Once my engine gets even the slightest bit warm it'll start right up :???:

What year is your truck O.P? if you have a "bolt in" rear axle Dana 35 you will need these as well ( Mopar 5083678AA ) to keep your rear wheel seals in place.

Amen to that, this should be on the " must do" list of every Comanche owner.

So the "power latch relay" could be the cause of hard start/ long cranking condition for a cold motor? assuming everything else such as the IAT ,CPS, ECT sensors and idle control valve are functioning?.

I've been running my Brown dogs (rubber mounts) for about a year and a half, you will feel/hear more of a "humming" at idle because of the stiffer rubber. I don't mind it so much since it reminds me of my old muscle cars :D ,It's a personal preference thing.OK that's good to hear. All you hear from people who don't like them are that it shakes so much you bounce around in the seat and parts fall off as you go down the road. I figured it wasn't too bad. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk The tuning on your engine has A LOT to do with it.

I've been running my Brown dogs (rubber mounts) for about a year and a half, you will feel/hear more of a "humming" at idle because of the stiffer rubber. I don't mind it so much since it reminds me of my old muscle cars :D ,It's a personal preference thing.

It did for me.

Thank you,according to the ebay seller they were cleaned, flushed and ready to be installed. Somehow installing the 746's made a much more more noticeable difference/improvement than the 710's. Maybe I got ripped off with the 710's ? maybe they weren't serviced and just made to look clean?

^^^ Doubt it, you would have other much more serious problems if the oil pump had failed to the point it would start causing over heating issues.

The one's on the driver side by the booster might be for the wiper reservoir pump? I don't have one on my truck so I can't say for sure. Has your truck been serviced lately? any work done?, for what it's worth you should double check your intake/exhaust manifold bolts are tight, I tightened the ones on my friends XJ this weekend and he can't get over how good it's running. Good luck and welcome to the forum.

Yes, I replaced the Ford "710" injectors with the Volvo 746's. I found the replacement injectors on ebay ( back flushed and cleaned ) for 80.00 dollars shipped for a set of 6, the 710's I replaced were also back flushed and cleaned but I don't remember what I paid for them. Fuel economy has at the very least stayed the same, if not it may have been improved slightly but without numbers and calculations I can't say for sure. I had the 710 injectors in my truck for approximately 2 1/2 years.