big66440

You're right sorry to have been so vague, I live in Los Angeles and won't be doing any off roading with them or driving through snow and don't care too much for a "luxury car ride" I can get a really good deal on Wrangler SR/A's which was my tire of choice but other jeep forums have mentioned many times they don't go very well with some jeeps (personally I wasn't convinced to blame the tire),,, by the way thank you for your response it is very thorough.

Do you guys have any tire/brand preference for stock size tires I'm looking to replace mine with 225/75/15's since mine are worn, out of round, old and I'm almost convinced they're causing my death wobble, I've read and heard to stay away from Good Year Wranglers are there any brands that are preferred? my truck is stock height and suspension 2WD and is used as a daily driver,thanks.

Very nice ride!!! I miss my bro's 70 /440 charger, had to get rid of it and got himself a @#%$& MINIVAN!!!!

Sorry I haven't gotten a chance to take pics, this morning I started my truck (hasn't been driven since this last Sat Jan 11th) and there was no squeak from the belt whatsoever until about 10-15 minutes of driving, I've noticed throughout the day it won't do it when its first started and the engine is cold, I won't have a chance to really get my hands into it until Saturday but I've made a list on things to check from fastest and easiest to more involved 1; straighten belt (it seems to be a little off on the smooth fan pulley) 2; remove fan and run engine and verify it's not an accessory bearing going out 3; check pulley alignment 4; replace belt I think by the time I get the the 4th step everything should be ruled out leaving only the belt to blame, what do you guys think? any suggestions?

I agree if there's air in the system it will kill you power assist, I replaced a PS pump and pressure hose on my step sons accord and spent about an hour and a half pulling my hair out because i couldn't "bleed" the air out turns out the o ring from the suction side of the pump had gotten crimped,,,, took 10 seconds to fix :doh:

Seems kind of weird for them to only act up once in a while, my experiences with bad power steering pumps are they whine like crazy and or leak and the power assist goes along with it, is there excess play in the steering? I'd stick a magnet in the fluid and see if it actually IS metal shavings then I guess there would be nothing left but maybe a new gear box and a good flush,,, just my 2 cents.

That's exactly what's going on,in fact I can see that side of the serpentine belt (engine side) fraying just a little, I'll try to post pictures as soon as I get a chance

I didn't measure if there was a difference, I should have just for peace of mind I figured being it was a factory part and it's been mentioned many many times to remove the oil slinger when that part number is being used I relied on that alone.If the oil slinger is at fault I've thought of cutting the outer diameter of the slinger small enough to fit it through the oil seal on the timing cover and calling it a day since I DO NOT want to spend all that time tearing into the engine bay just for that.

I replaced my timing set (Cloyes C3085) and harmonic balancer (Mopar 33002920AC) I removed the oil slinger as required and now my serpentine belt is not lining up properly, it's too close to the engine side of the pulleys, everything else was left alone do you guys have any ideas as to what may be an issue? 89, 4.0/AW4, 2WD comanche

I'm going to be replacing my timing set this weekend and installing a replacement harmonic balancer from Mopar but it says the oil slinger can not be used with this updated part, I know what it's for but do you guys think it will be a big deal to run my truck without it? I have an 89 base 4.0/AW4 2WD, thanks.

Thanks guys ill pop one in this weekend :D

I've had a problem with my turn signals cancelling properly for a while now, when I turn the steering wheel to the right even by very little it cancels almost immediately but when I turn the wheel to the left it takes almost a full turn if not a little more to cancel, my steering wheel is perfectly level when driving straight and my wheel alignment is dead on, can anyone please help I have access to an alignment rack if needed,thank you.

I love mopar but have to agree with you guys,I work for an engine rebuilding supply warehouse and we make tons of money on the 2.7 3.7 and 4.7 Chrysler engines (but we sell as much for ford 4.6 and 5.4 :P ) I hope the pentastar engines and newer tranny's had some serious engineering to keep them from further ruining Chryslers image as piles of junk.

99.9% of all the parts I've bought for my manche have been from rock auto,they are the best,,,I have that magnet to!!!

I'm running the Jegs one on mine, seems perfectly fine except for the fact that the plastic knob broke off,it's no big deal I can still turn it with pliers.

Maybe I just got unlucky. it happens,,,, I was a bit surprised when it happened I trust the bosch a lot more than the airtex,I threw that in because I had to get home on a sat afternoon while I was working as a mechanic for a shop and thats all the local autozone had we'll see how long it lasts.

That is an awesome RR,my oldest brother had one right out of high school,383,air grabber,pistol grip 4 speed I used to get butterflies in my stomach riding in it, it was fun but scary :yes:

I have though about this many times and I would consider it if I didnt have other projects on the side and if I didnt live in smog pesky California,I'm a huge Mopar fan and have a lot of respect for the /6 but like others have mentioned time,money,energy spent is a bit discouraging besides the 4.0 is a GREAT engine and can have an o/d aut tranny readily adapted as well as other manual trannys I just don't see "it" on this one.

I ran the Bosch one listed above(69302),it lasted less than a year I'm running an Airtex now it's twice the size we'll see how long it lasts, seems like MJ's like eating fuel pumps.

my mistake Id I didnt read it correctly,the tire shop should have a plastic insert that rides on the bead part of the wheel and it keeps the wheels from getting scratched,,,,I scratched a wheel on accident myself and thats how I found out about that "insert".

The tires got stretched?

Cool,did you feel a difference in the brake pedal feel?

Have you had a look at any of the suspension components? when I got my manche that was the first thing I did and lo and behold practically EVERYTHING had to be replaced and you bet it made a night and day difference.

You guys are bringing up good points,but since I'm planning on putting some serious miles on my manche as a daily driver I'd like to have a firmer brake pedal feel rather than that soggy feel,its a stock height manche by the way.

Since I'm going to be under my comanche doing some suspension work I want to look into upgrading my rubber brake lines to steel braided ones.I did some homework and turns out the rear brake line on the manches is different than on the XJ's do any of you guys know if using the XJ line will be too much trouble? if so is there a vehicle that can match the comanche's set up?thanks in advance.