4play

Yep, I'm a cop. And I'm amazed at the people that have such a hard time pronouncing Walhalla. But it can be fun listening to drunks try :rotfl2: I'll bet you encounter a higher percent of people that are armed than do street cops.

I'm in upstate South Carolina.

My job can go from one extreme to the other. Some times, I literally catch myself falling asleep. But let some idiot get stuck on stupid and things pick up.... ever watch cops? ;)

a slight threadjack, but possibly related... My '87 (auto tranny) always takes two attempts to start. Hot or cold, doesn't matter. If it does, by some freak chance, start on the first try, it will die when you put it in gear. I also sometimes get the high rev when it first starts.

40, birthday in September And my 15 year old daughter prefers trucks to cars. :cheers: (my 12 y/o daughter still needs some convincing) :roll: My wife says when she finishes raising us, she's not raising any more. :D

http://www.jpmagazine.com/bree/154_0606_01_z+ask_bree_three+bree.jpg

I have the copy of the MJ build. JP did a nice job having it fixed up. But I agree that the JP (re)build is not practical for most of us; it's like an ad promo for the most expensive way to fix your truck. OK, they threw on a cheap paint job - I guess they couldn't find anyone paying to promote their painting services. It was nice to see the MJ featured, I just didn't find that article very useful or practical. And as for Bree, I don't think we are supposed to look at her face (thank goodness) :roll:

:dunce: At K-Mart of course.

The 3 strap tank is the 23 gal LWB tank. I hade to pull mine out - rust holes all in it :eek: . Replaced it with a 16 gal SWB tank. Biggest problem was the filler line was off. I probably could have set it further back, but the J bolt bent the rear mount while trying to get the old tank out and I was in too much of a hurry to try to fix that. By the time I got the filler working properly (without leaking), I probably could have easily just moved the tank back. :mad: Laziness does not always pay off. :dunce:

People do change things. My VIN decode says mine is a 4cyl., but there are definately 6 cyls there. :D

As I recall, they are generic fit. 1 size for small trucks, another for full size (it's been a while since I last looked). I have had them on full size trucks before. You may get the choice of a solid top or a split top. I highly reccomend the solid top. They can be opened from either side and have no gaps that can leak. :cheers: Every split top I've had eventually leaked. :mad:

Next day off I guess I'll pull things apart and see whats there. I think you are on the right track about the tach. Thanks much. :D

Wouldn't the TPS also affect idle? ( :dunno: trying to learn as well as fix my truck) It seems to idle ok.

The VIN is 1JTHR65T0HT053241 1 1 Country : USA 2 J Manufacturer: Jeep (USA) 3 T Type: TRUCK 6-7 65 Model: 4WD COMANCHE 7`BOX 5 R Transmission/transfercase: Automatic Transmission, Part Time Transfer Case 4 H Engine 2,5 litres, I-4, central injection 9 0 Control digit: Has passed check 10 H Year: 1987 11 T Plant: Toledo, Ohio 12-17 053241 Serial number 053241

I didn't fully notice the red line in the dim light while driving at night but mine also begins the redline area at 5500, the 5 is normal colored and the 6 is red; the red line starts under the mark that indicates 5.5. I did try starting in 1-2 and manually shifted up to the OD position to see how it acted. In 1-2 it never seemed to shift from 1st to 2nd, but in 3 it did seem to hit 2nd and 3rd. :hmm: Then when I hit OD it seemd to shift again. There's a local retired guy that has a reputation for being really good at tranny work, if I can just get him away from the other old men that hang out telling lies and drinking coffee all day, maybe he can give some extra guidance.

The engine idles around the 1k mark. And at 5k showing on the tach, it sounds like 5k. Guess I'll follow Oizarod's advice and drive slow until I have a chance to look further into this. Man, work really interferes with the important things in life.

OK, that would better explain no change in rpm. I assumed it worked like the "O/D off" button I am so accustomed to on the Crown Vics I drive at work. :dunce:

While driving home tonight I put the trans button on the "power" position. I was running an even 3k rpm and put the button in the "comfort" position. The tach did not register any change. Shouldn't it have reduced the rpms? :hmm: Further showing my ignorance, could running with low trans fluid cause the torque converter to not lock up? Or more likely it's just worn out? (My guess is worn out. The odometer is showing @ 225k miles but I doubt its accurate - the vin check I used from a link on this site indicates I have a 4 banger, but there are a couple extra cylinders there.) :dunno: My continued thanks for everyones assistance :D

Same here. Maybe its the way the PO wired the replacement radio :dunno:

I was hoping (partially) that was the problem (at least then I would know what the problem was). However, I tried watching/listening today while on my way to work. It seemed to shift from 1st to 2nd @ 15 mph/3.2k rpm; 2nd to 3rd @ 25 mph/3.2k rpm; and 3rd to 4th @ 35 mph/3.2k rpm. While running at 50 mph and 3.5k rpm, I dropped it from O/D to 3 and it revved up to @ 5k rpm. :hmm:

My DD is a 6cyl, auto, 4wd running 235/75R/15's (about a 28.5 inch tire). I think stock gears for the 30 front/35 rear. Back and forth to work I may run 50 mph at @ 3k rpm. Tonight I ran her up to 70 mph and was hitting 5k rpm. The tach indicates redline starts at 6k rpm. Is it me? or is this running a bit high? For what it's worth, I do have the power trans button in the off position and the floor shifter pattern is P, R, N, O/D, 3, 1-2. I was in the O/D position.

JY is JunkYard; not to be confused with a YJ. ;)

I think that's what are all doing .... only some people throw more than others. ;)

Square, I like that

I got it to load without any problems. :dunno: http://www.grapeapedesign.com/