NewfieMJ

It's only the top corner edges of the header that don't line up . The rounded edge sticks out about 1/4" , too bad . I tried just the header first , but wasn't long before pulling it off to install the fenders . It would be nice to swap the doors as well Check out my build thread , it's full of pics on the XJ body swap viewtopic.php?f=7&t=29680 If your MJ is that clean , I doubt I would change any parts . What you have is rare enough . You could probably fix the regulators with a little grease

That is a wierd one . Only got one thing for you to try . Turn the key to "run" , jump it off the starter to see if it starts . If it does , I'd suspect the ignition itself .

not much left on the list . Confirm circulation in the heater core . Compare temps to the in and outlet hoses by touch , careful , it's hot . Air lock , did you burp the system well enough ? Faulty temp sending switch . Water pump Head gasket , but your not mentioning any symptoms such as oil in the AF , milky oil , extra steamy exhaust or disappearing coolant

Nice looking springs . Better than my Rusty's . Mine have 5 ride leaf(i guess you call them) your look like they have 2 loads springs . I got lucky and had no issues with the bolts seized to the bushing sleeves . Soaking is a good idea . I would recomend new shackles or new shackle bushings . I zip cut the u-bolts , they sure do make a loud snap when the let go , lol , no dangers though . Just watch out where your sparks are heading :eek: . If you go this way make sure you cut on the "U" or you'll have to cut twice . You'll also need to disconnect the brake line bracket . You can manipulate the line to make placable(by drilling) to the load sensing valve bracket (if not rusty), if you didn't get the extended line . This works fine as long as you don't go flexing it out , then it would fall short I think . I bought the extended line , just never got it on yet as it came in after the springs went on . Mine is still like this but consider this a temp fix , I do . At least you won't get stuck short of parts this way . I hung the front bolt , then bolted up the diff to the springs , then the rear bolts . Don't be surprised if the shackle is point waaaay forward . Mine was , it went back when I finally put the weight back on the wheels . I still had to put pressure on the spring to get to , sort of , stretch far enough to reach the shackle . I didn't think they were gonna work initially but all went well . Don't tighten any bushing bolts until its on the ground , the u-bolts can be tighted to spec right away during the process . Good luck with the install .

This is a pretty nice MJ . You won't do what he's done for the money . Yup , needs a little more work to finish , but hey , you do want to get your hands on it and do some of your own work to it right :wrench: . Sounds like it needs some tlc , and all the parts are there . $500 flares I can tell you it will cost me about 7-800 to rebuild a diff with a regear so about $1500 worth of diffs The lift including tires . So , a grand for the wheels and rubber and say he cheaped out (lowest possible$) and spent $500 on the lift . That's worth another total of $1500 for the combo The trans/case combo could easily fetch back $500 together , you could get more selling the spares seperate . So , let's say there's $500 in spare trans/case parts He also says he has lots of other spare parts $$$ When you break down the parts , you get this one for free http://kamloops.en.craigslist.ca/cto/2372312126.html

Baby face I've been called by many women , they all seemed to love it . Maybe that's why I didn't settle till I was 38 , I wanted to share , lol . I'm 42 now , still can't cut a beard . After 24 hours from a close shave , I look like most right after theirs . I can easily go 3-4 days before shaving and not look bad . Hell , I think if you looked close enough , there maybe 1 or 2 hairs on my chest , but ya gotta look hard , LOL . I don't mind it at all . As long as it all stays on the roof , that's fine with me :thumbsup: , so far , so good Do I even look 42 ?

3:55 in the 44 is nice . The XJ's have mainly 3:55 . There's millions out there to match the 44 . Although I'd prefer the 4:10's , cheapest route is get another front diff too . Only issue I could see is , I think you have the 2.5 (given the 4:10's) , the 3:55 will slow you down a hair .

LP=low pinion HP=high pinion

Remove the hood via the 4 bolts on the hinge . You could even trace it out with a felt marker , but , I just used the obvious mark left from it being bolted on . I'm not even certain there is any adjustment on these 4 bolts I did that when I did my conversion from the 98 XJ , took the hood off the XJ from the hinge/firewall . Bolted it on , and closed the hood . Lined up perfectly . never adjusted it first or last .

pilot bearing goes in the flex plate , at least it did on mine(2.5) Look at the pic . Had them install it when it was resurfaced

:doh: excuse the brain fart , your so right and I'm dead wrong about that bearing . Sorry , watching a few different forums/threads and got some files in my brain mixed up :hmm: :rotfl2:

It was hard for me to commit to gutting my perfectly good XJ too! Once I did, I was happy, because XJs had a longer run, and are a dime a dozen, but a fully functioning, good looking MJ is like a Unicorn around here! (Northern Indiana.) Don't hate me , the 91 is an MJ :peek: I bought it mainly for the rebuilt engine with 30K that sounds sooooo good . The reverse has a major clunk , but still functions , forwards are good . The rockers are eaten , cab corners disintigrated , basically every panel would need work/replacing . Looks great from 20-30 feet away , LOL . It's definately fixable , but man , it took alot of coaxing to my girl to get another project when I took on my 88 . I need those parts from the 91 to keep building the 88 (which has original shiney paint on the floors) Once it's scrapped , listed and picked for parts , I have little doubt where it's headed . I made a promise to get it , scrap it , and get rid of it . You can kick my @$$ all over this forum , she has me by the balls :rotf:

Here's your clutch and standard gear , sorry , didn't mean to sound confusing . You'll see this takes the place of the flex plate and trorque converter on the manuals . The starter teeth are on the flywheel , as well as the notches for the crank sensor . What you see is all you need on the back of the engine . Not going against the idea of a new pilot bearing( I call them throw-out bearings , pilot is correct though) , but if you can't hear it , don't bother . Do it when you have your engine work complete and go to reinstall it .

Can't , it was a rebuilt I paid more for than my MJ , lol . I originally bought it for the lifted ZJ . After going so high I decided to get a waggy box (4bolt) for added strength . This one has maybe 4-5K . But hey , if you do the adjustment , good chance you won't need one either . I just got back from a trip to the city and the MJ drove freakin great compared to before . I was really impressed , the steering was really tight , wandering to a minimum and on the way back , had about 5-700lbs of wet mulch on the back , again , it still drove great . The load gave me a little pull to the right but not major and easily handles . I also have about 20mph winds on the way home . Yeah , I'm really impressed what a little adjusting can do for the jeeps steering . I'm definately doing the same on the 5.9 , and maybe my 07 Ram 3500 as well .

The auto should have a flex plate , the starter gears will be on the torque converter . Just remove all the auto-stuff from the rear of the new engine , bolt on your pressure plate , and then clutch assembly , drop 'er in

Thanks , that was the only question I had left to confirm on the swap . Looks like I'll be stripping the 91 very soon , like , maybe start today :) . Almost hurts to take apart something that runs great but the gear box is hooped and the cancer has eaten the body . I could fix it , but , it was bought for the engine , t-case , D44 and a few other pcs , now it's kinda in my way . As rare as these trucks are , I could have had 3 more given to me in the past month . I may still pick one up , a 89 long box 2wd . Some minor front end damages , and a bad rear diff , not too rusty at all .

Decided to try adjusting the steering box today , the original from the truck . I started to release the steering shaft from the box , but the damn this would not slide no matter how hard I pried . I removed the air box completely , still no luck with the shaft sliding/colapsing . To hell with it I though , I'm gonna do a quickie adjustment on the box . Using a long and short screwdriver , I managed to get the lock nut off . Then , using a grinder wrench , I was able to tighten the nut/adjuster . I then marked it when tight , made another mark 9mm counterclockwise to that mark , and adjusted the nut back to that mark . Re-installed the lock nut and air box and took it for a spin . Huge difference . Drove much straighter , had little to no play and felt as good as a worn box could , lol . I didn't do the over the top adjustment , doubt it would change much , may still try . This took about 45 mins to 1 hour . Wasn't that hard , never did anything to spec , but the results were really good . Got to say I would recomend this to anyone with a jeep . I'm gonna do my 5.9 next . Perhaps keep that shiny new box on the bench , lol . The adjusting nut was about 1/8-1/4 turn loose before getting tight , it was out quite a bit . Only advice is watch your marks when tigtening the lock nut on I'd certainly try this before spending money on a new box . My little write up is ok , but here's a TBS on the adjustment http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1997/19-10-97.htm I did the bearing preload

I would really suggest you buy a whole jeep if considering this swap . The donor jeep may have ABS . 2 sections of the firewall should be cut out and transplanted in yours . Non CAD axle would be a plus , also , you'd need the slip yoke from the rear driveshaft (29 spline vs 27 on yours) , plus what's said above . You'd also have 3:55's vs a most likely 3:07 Yeah , I got my donor already :) Curious about the fuel pump though , will a 91 MJ's tank and pump work , or does the XJ pump "have" to be fitted ?

Here's stock on 32's , but it won't turn without some decent trimming :brows: I lifted it since , this was just fitting for a laugh . Thought I'd post the pic to show if anyone wondered about 32's with stock suspensions.

Wow , not cheap stuff . 2 outta 3 were a $1000 . Definately not worth the money IMO. The day I spend $1000 to disco my endlinks as oppose to manual doing it , is indeed the day I give up jeeping , or won the lotto , lol . One day I will come back from a wheeling trip and my jeep won't even be worth $1000 :ack:

I would think after everything that's been replaced , it's the coolant sensor , the one that sends signal to the PCM . I assume there is 2 on the 88 4.0 , the other being for the dash light signal . The only other sensor I have known , not seemingly related to , but still had some weird effects was the 02 sensors . It's pretty common on the 96+OBDII 4.0's but one hell of a hard thing to figure out going in blind . No codes , no CEL's from either mentioned here . Wish I was more familiar with the older systems to further help , I love a challange , lol .

I certainly could ship it to you sir , but , I highly doubt the $30-50 to ship from Edmonton Canada to PA is worth it . (I just paid UPS $37 to ship brakelines from MN) I got one off the jeep and in the garage from my 95 Orvis . PM me if you still want it I can ship it out this weekend . Surely someone on here can get this man a bracket within the countries boarders . Shipping would be about $5-10 comparably .Better yet m hit a scrap yard , they probably have dozens , oh wait , PA , that's in the rust belt . Hmm , ok , well , you know what the price of shipping will be . PM me , mines rust free . If you know or have a buisness address to ship this to , I could probably get the shipping much cheaper . My buddy just ordered the same lines and got the shipped to his work for $21 :( , know we know , all of our stuff gets shipped there from here on .

So , your talking about the driver's side track bar frame mount ? I'd replace the bracket . They can be had off ZJ's , XJ's , TJ's and any other MJ . They don't often have an ovaling issue , but , someone forgot to tighten the TRE bolt , or put the pin back in . Hell , if you were close enough , I'd give ya one .

2" ? Doesn't make sense . 2wd vs 4wd axles are all set up the same , they even use the same track bar . I just jacked mine 4.5-5" and it threw the axle 3/4" to the pass side giving me a measurment difference of 1.5" side to side . That's providing they were equal to begin with . Remember , when you measure the difference from the same point on each side , you divide that number in 1/2 . That's how far off center the axle is . Reguardless , you axle shouldn't be shifted more than approx 3/8" @ 3" . I would personally want a new track bar either way cause I'm just that way but as said , you should be able to get by without it too with minor handling effects . Got any pics of this set-up ?

This is your main issue OP . 1) count the turns from lock to lock on your steering wheel 2) divide that number in 1/2 , from one side lock , rotate the steering wheel to center (ex:3 full turns , turn 1.5 turns to center) 3) Lock the steering as close as possible to center 4) Coming off the steering box pitman arm is a TRE with an adjuster attached , it goes to the passanger side . Using a 15mm or 9/16 , loosen the 2 clamp nuts on that adjuster . You may have a little issue adjusting , those things like to rust . Have a pipe wrench handy , that always works :brows: 5)using the rear wheels as a reference , align the front wheels until they point back at the outer edge of the rear tires . This will get you close and you may have to tweak it one way or the other from that point to make it perfect (easiest if the wheels are off the ground) . Your steering will now turn equal amounts left or right , reguardless of your axle centering , which , would not be off by enough to cause much more than a little bump steer/wandering