NewfieMJ

Original owner ? That's even more rare than a MJ with solid floors :laughin: You've done a great job keeping up with appearances , the truck looks very good .

Well , I just found a low k AX-15 and 231 for $100 . My vote is really leaning towards the 91 harness .

Thanks , but , I'm really not into that one , I want to build one of those HP's for my ZJ . I just finished a 8" ZJ build on LA's , and just wanna finish up my last project to the same degree , functional and mobile . Both mentioned jeeps were bought for the project's parts . The XJ is higher K so resale would blow anyways . That and I want my yard cleaned up .

Got an 88 short box with a 98 frt clip/doors already swapped over my 2.5 2wd powertrain . I'm ready to change that now but , I have 2 choices . 1) I have a 91 Manche with ac (missing condensor), 4.0 5 spd 231 4x4 . The gear box makes an awful clunk in reverse , gear work needed . Other than that , and rust , it works great . Also has the non disco +D44 combo :)3.07's :( . Engine is a rebuilt with low K , t-case works great . Engine is being used reguardless . 2) I also have a 98 XJ , it was the donor so far .4.0(bad piston skirt)+AW4+231 , drove great coming home except the knock was loud . HP+8.75 combo running.55's . Loaded jeep except leather . Nice decent interior . My contemplation here is which swap should I do . Convert the 91's powertrain into the 88 . Bolt everything in , no hassles just run some wiring for the pwr windows , mirrors and locks . The dash is in nice shape , no cutting the firewall , no splicing the harness , just have to get another ax-15 or Finish as intended and do the 98 full conversion , dash swap etc and run the auto trans . I do have a welder to cut out a section of the firewall and remount it . That dash would be cool in an MJ , I've seen them :) . The wiring should be straight forward enough and I will have both vehicles side by side . Wife would be able to drive it . Not sure how I feel about that , lol . But , I'm building a show toy , capable , but won't get wheeled much . Both have their advantages , what would you do ? I need to know , I got the 91 sitting in the garage ready to be dismantled .

Next year , I'll have a new trailer to tow behind the 32 ft motorhome I just bought . Gonna have to hook up and go wheelin' , that scenery looks sweet . Might not be towin the MJ though , most likely my LA'd ZJ . I'm ordering the parts for it within 24hrs . Just need new gears for the diffs . Time to get back into my building jeeps , 2 yrs later , the house is pretty much finished :) .

The control arms , steering linkage , shocks , springs and a few other items match . As was said , not really worth the swap with their age , but , the MJ did use solid rubber bushings as oppose to the "hollowed" comfort version in the ZJ . If the ZJ's are shot , and you need a quick fix , they will work . They are cheap and easy to replace . I use nothing but a hammer to change them in stock arms . Got a vid on jeepforum , same name except ZJ , not MJ , search my threads . Remove one arm at a time . 2 bushings are a PITA , those would be the 2 on the axle itself for the upper arms :eek: The axle on the MJ will be a vacumn disconnect , non-vac-disco on the ZJ . Gears shouldn't match , but , look anyways , you never know what PO's or Jeep can do . You could also run into some driveshaft issues . The 96 has a short pinion D30 vs the HP on the MJ . The driveshafts should be interchangable between the 2 . Don't think you were after the axle swap anyways , just the parts

I wouldn't be concerned with any strength issues , except maybe in the mounting areas on the axle and truck . But I would be concerned with "why didn't I just build long arms" issues . Your welding is alot better than mine ;)

Yeah , it's the factory bar . I saw the Comanche it came from . The guy is using it for work and has a canopy on the back now . I saw the add , and called him early yest. morning . He was having a garage sale and had this bar in it , thus the taped price tag . I bought it on the phone and less than an hour later had it in my truck homeward bound with a grin ear to ear . Those are the factory lights also :) , and the bar never painted . Gonna get some thin rubber to use as a spacer between the box and bar . The factory had rubber grommets , not sure why I didn't ask if I could have those too :dunno: too excited about the deal I suppose :D . BTW , I would have gladly paid 10X+ :D

Well , your a lucky man . My father suffered a severe heart attack 26 yrs ago . There's been alot of improvements since then of course . The needle they shot in your heart to reverse damage was only in the major centers at that time being so new . His enzeme count was 5800 (just ask your dr , that's deadly 99% of the time) His damage means 52% of his heart does not function . He has had a pacemaker/defibulator for over 20 yrs , been on meds to the point it took all his money and turned toxic in his system over the years . His past 10 years of comfortable living without and trouble is accreditted to natural products . His first 15 or so entailed many hospital stays and ambulance rides . He no longer takes any perscription medications , still has side effects from them though :( . Last visit , his cardiologist said "I don't know what your doing , but , keep it up" My father is very knowledgable about the heart and it's conditions . He also knows all the meds and their long term side effects . I know he'd be happy to tell you what he knows or answer any questions for you , after all , the guys who he became friends with in the hospital with less damage(by-passes , stints etc etc) aren't around anymore . As a preventitive measure , I take a herbal heart drop . BTW , my old man , just hit 68 in August PM me if you want his email

While browsing kijiji this morning I stumbled accross this Roll Bar . It's in great shape , fits my SWB , came with factory lights(I was told) Did I mention the price ? You wouldn't believe me anyhow :nuts: $10

You can run w/o the cat , you just need the 02 sensor still installed . You may or may not get a CEL , experiences can vary . You can be fined in the USA because it is a federal crime . Why is arguable , there's just as much evidence pro or con to it's benefits . Some facts about cats - they don't rob you of more than 1% power when functioning properly(I will say older cats are crap , the newer ones work and last better) - wheeling w/o them can result in teary eyes - vehicle inspections can require all original equipment functional - "According to Title II of the EPA Clean Air Act (Enacted Jan 1 1988) there are multiple regulations concerning the use or misuse of aftermarket catalytic converters, or the removal and/or modification of a stock catalytic converter. According to various parts of Section 203, all aftermarket catalytic converters must be EPA certified, and your car must have a gas conversion device of some manner. If not, both you and the installer are punishable of a Federal Offense by Section 205 (a). The operator's fine can be no more than $2,500 and the installation agency no more than $25,000." - there is no excuse not to run a cat , they can be had for the price of a tire .

First , 96 means an electronically controlled trans , not compatible with the OBDI on your 93 , it's trans is hydraulically controlled . The 96 XJ should have the AW4 IIRC . The 42RE (RH was pre 96) was used more so in the ZJ . Either way , it's easy to tell . Just look at the shifter , the AW4 has this pattern P r n d 3 1-2 The 42RE/RH has this P R N D 2 1 , and will have an overdrive button on the dash You also will not find a match in the bolt pattern on the bell housings . The Direct drive snap ring fails. It's common to loose reverse like this . You are looking at a full rebuild and maybe some hard parts due to damage . When you do rebuild/find another trans , make sure to remove the check valve on the line about 12" back from the rad . They restrict , and get clogged up , common failure cause . I have 200K on my 46RH , lots of service , no issues . Check valves were removed on both my 95 and my 98 5.9l Grands when I bought them .

The transfer case has a Viscous coupling or VC . It locks up when there is slipping between the front and rear axles . AWD's should be towed with all 4 wheels on the ground , or off . Your not going to want to use the awd case anyways . To swap them you just need a case stamped 94/06 or earlier , swap input shafts and your good to go . The input shaft on the 93-95 ZJ is 1.55" vs .84 on all 242's and 4.0 equiped 231's .

Cool , so no different than any other dizzy . Got the camera ;) , should be ok . I'm off tomorrow to get the engine , trans , and 231 for $300 . Hmm , what's the chance the 2WD cross member will work ? Only other options I have on hand are from a 91 mj 4.0 4by4 , or a 98 xj . That and/or a trip to the pick-n-pull . Geonovast , thanks for chiming in :cheers:

Thanks . Gotta change the dist. ? OK , I can see that , obI&II . Thanks for the heads up . This mean a trip to the dealer to set the timing ? Or can I get it "close enough" marking or using a light ?

Hey guys . The engine I bought this year is blowing oil everywhere from the dipstick to the PCV valve and has the fuel economy of a V10 , lol . Guess I got burned on that one , but , found another powertrain from a 97 TJ . The guy bought the jeep , drove it for 3 months w/o issue and only a small sweat from the valve cover noted . He's swapping in a 4.0 presently . I can get the 2.5(120K) the trans , and t-case , all for 300 . I got a new head gasket kit which I can toss on there already . My question is , will it fit with my own intake and sensors ? I'm pretty sure it will but need some confirmation . I just want this truck up and running . The trans and t-case are just a bonus cause the MJ is already lifted about 5" on 32's and I have a few axles I can swap in the front and spare driveshafts to cut and fit .

I'd just swap the 90 intake manifold , be happy it had a fresh gasket and no issue with it being a plug and play , assuming the distributor pick-up plug-in is the same .

I switched front clips from a 98 , it was a bolt on to my 88 2.5l . I also laid the 88 stuff back on the 98 with no issues , just had to swap onwe bracket for the whole swap . Fenders are an option that should be swapped as well viewtopic.php?f=7&t=29680&hilit=dirty+harry

I went with Rusty's rear springs . I didn't know about hell's Creek at the time but will say they look better than mine . I'm not too disappointed though . I got more like 5.5 outta them . I have 4.5 TJ coils in the front and will be adding 1" more to level the truck when I get the control arm drop brackets . I run RE super flex adjustable uppers , and IRO HD adjustable lowers . I have a HD Clayton's track bar and bracket to be installed as well as a ZJ pitman arm , but for now this is how it sits

Yeah , white acually might be alright . However I doubt I'll go this way . It's definately cheap but would never replace the quality of a proper paint job . I'm a fan of acrylic enamal myself . It's what I'll be spraying . No need for clear coat . I'm not a fan of spray/tremclad/rustoleum paints unless used on the undercarriage . Scratches the finish too easy without hardeners in the paint . But hey , on a budget , off-road rig , switching parts or just a new look , why not . To spend $2-5000 on a $1000 truck to make it worth $2500 doesn't make sense . If you can do it properly yourself , bonus . This is just another option .

Not sure how it was I stumbled accross this link . Just thought I'd share it with you . The pics look pretty good to me http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/sho ... art=1&vc=1 :popcorn:

Last week I wanted to clean up the donor 98 XJ , all stock . Part of the prep was cleaning the powertrain . Since I didn't care about the engine(piston skirt knock) and the battery needed a little charging , I let it run for the process . I hit every single square inch under the hood , every wire , every sensor and the ABS and PCM modules . All up close and personal too like 4-6 inches away and 2000psi . No stumbles , no issues , still starts fine , no bad effects , best of all , no dirt either . I've used a pressure washer for a long time on every engine in every vehicle . Yet to have an issue . BTW , if water was an issue in an engine bay , snorkel's would be useless ;)

Dirteatr717 Did you use standard u-bolts for that set-up ? Why the bottom plate , for the shock ? Assuming yes and yes for your answers , I can't agree that bottom plate was a good idea using a standard u-bolt(looks like it is) That would mean your bolts could easily wear into the 3/16s(i think) plate and become loose as time passes . If unnoticed , could shear the bolt and that's not good for anybody .

LIke this one you mean ? OP , get a photobucket account . You can copy the image code as I just did and show us your jeep

http://hellcreeksuspensions.com/ http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.m ... _Code=Leaf After buying Rusty's , and seeing HC's , HC's look to be the better choice . No complaints about Rusty's yet though . I pulled 7-900 lb loads last week with mine . It was tougher on the 2.5l than on the springs :yes: . It accually leveled mine out perfect . :thumbsup: