Blue88Comanche

very nice! :drool:

Went out to the pick and pull with Mom and Dad to look for a brake booster for dads MJ, we ended up finding 2 comanches!!! 1986 LWB 2wd V-6 and a 87 SWB 2wd I-4 here is our loot, Tailgate in good condition, Tail lights in good condition, 2 pairs of side vents, load sensing valve, MJ rear bumper, MJ tire hoist, and a 01 XJ brake booster

had an awesome u pull it score today! saw 2 Comanches!! will post pics and more info in tge pub after I get home tonight :yes:

awesome! thanks guys :cheers:

I have an 4.0 I-6 form a 89 XJ thats been sitting on my trailer for the past several months. I am not sure what i want to do with it. the motor ran fine before i removed it from the donor. I am just not sure what to do with it. I have never really messed with the engine aspect of our MJs so i have considered using this motor as a learning experience, removing and replacing things i normally would not touch on my running MJ in fear of messing something up. another thought was to store it for when one of our engines explode.... err stop running... what would be a good method for long term storage? and what type of prep work should be done? any other ideas? if anyone wants to come pick it up i am fine with that too... I just want to get the use of my trailer back lol

I have come to the point where i need to hook up the transfer case linkage. I have an AX-15 mated to a NP242. All i have is the leaver on the TC and the original Z linkage from the BA/10 np231 combo and the 242 shifter gate. what i don't have is the bracket that mounts to the AX-15. does anyone have a picture of it?

Having my MJ gave me the opportunity to learn about these tough little trucks, and i have learned a lot in the past 4. I started out with a old faded blue Jeep MJ, spent time, money, and more money on it now its a head turner. so here is what my MJ got me: Compliments People offering to buy it.. (not going to sell it) basic repair skills general automotive knowledge I otherwise wouldn't have looked into (gears, axles, engines, tires) an unnatural obsession with Jeeps Discounts at my local auto parts store Discount at 4WD.com (wouldn't have happened if i did not have my Comanche to find this awesome website) ComancheClub.com window Decal But I still don't have a girlfriend, or A/C... Guess I can manage without both for a while.

Fruit trees just don't produce fruit sugar to make an appreciable dent. Sugar beets would be one of the better sources for you. Under ideal farm conditions sugar beets will produce about 40 tons/acre/year. Thats with petrochemical fertilzers and pesticides, lets assume you have neither since after all we are talking about the end of the world as we know it. Second, lets assume you are not a professional farmer who knows exactly how to farm to get the best yield. I'm going to round off those factors and say under the best conditions you get a 25 ton/acre/year yield. Sugar beets typically have a sugar content around 17%, the problem comes in efficiently extracting the sugar from the beets. If you were just to mash them up and ferment them you would not get all the sugar out in suspension where the yeast can eat away at it. One such method to extract sugar is to use alcohol, sugar is highly soluble in alcohol, so mash your beets up and run the mash through an alcohol wash. Run the sugar alcohol wash through some sort of still (a passive solar condensation still would be ideal here so you can reuse that alcohol. But again, there will be loose here as well. I suspect you will not get the full 17% as under ideal conditions, in fact I think you will be lucky to hit 10%. Getting higher yields is the sort of thing companies like Cargill pay PHd Chemists and Engineers 100k + a year salaries for. So far we have 25 tons/acre, 3 acres, 10% yield of sugar. That gives us about 15000 pounds of sugar........thats an appreciable amount of sugar, but we still need to convert that to alcohol. Wild yeasts will have a very low yield, bakers yeast are better, and distillers yeast is best, however without a continual supply of fresh yeast it will be difficult to keep high yeilds up. So we will assume under ideal conditions you can keep a bakers strain of yeast propagated. Now the next issue you will run into is having the proper nutrients for a high yield wash, with a good source of phospate(DAP etc) you will run into a wall real quick. All said and done without proper nutrient washes you will hit about 9-10% yield at the highest. Now what that means is that you will have a low alcohol wash that is going to take more energy to distill than a higher % wash. The Enthalpy of vaporization for ethanol is 0.841 KJ/gram. The Enthalpy of vaporization for water is 2.23 kJ/gram. The energy density of ethanol is 26.8 kJ/gram At a 10% wash: 2.23 * .90 + .841 * .10 = 2.1 kJ/gram 2.1/26.8 = 8% of your product that will need to be burned to produced the heat required to distill your product at the bare minimum. Thats not counting any other thermal efficiency losses.....even a 20% figure is realistic and damm near as good as you could get. so you have 15,000 lbs of sugar.....you ferment that, make a bunch of low % wash, and then distill that. Assume you are not doing a vacuum distillation you are going to hit about 95% output with a reflux still, that equates to about 1040 gallons of 95% alcohol. Assuming a 20% efficacy loss you have 832 gallons of fuel. Now compare to gasoline, gasoline is about 48.1 kJ/g compared to 26.8 kJ/gram. That means the pure alcohol has 55% less energy than non ethanol gasoline. Lets look at it another way, that 832 gallons of pure alcohol is more like 458 gallons of gasoline. Thats not even looking at how much of that fuel you will need to use to plant/grow/harvest and transport the sugar beets to make the fuel. You need lots of sugar. Source: ME with a background in alternative fuels and a distiller. :hmm: I think my headache got worse trying to understand what was just said... lol

I think the heaviest thing I hauled was before my MT springs, I had filled up the bed of my MJ with oak logs till I noticed it was on the bump stops. thankfully I was only taking it about 100 yards to where our fire was for Christmas one year. 4lo was mi friend for sure even with the 4.0

the donor I had was a 1990 XJ limited, it has tweeters mounted there and they did have a bracket if I remember correctly. after the storm passes I will dig around the shead and see if we still have that part of the dash.

i don't remember if i used the 97+ XJ or the WJ booster and MC but i had to enlarge the hole in the brake rod and gring a flat edge on it. i don't think i had to hammer the lip by the booster when i put the brakes in but i did hammer on it later when i was replacing the clutch line. here is my current setup on my Blue MJ (4.0 / AX-15).

and if you really wanted to you could disconnect the wire that activates the a/c clutch on the compressor

:popcorn:

when you changed the fluid did you check the teeth on the ring and pinion gears?

where can i get a replacement clip for the center console lid? thanks

if you drive on the beach or launch a boat into the gulf, just rinse off the undercarriage well and you should be good. My grandfather never did that and it is still in good shape.

you plan to drive through salt water? My MJ has lived less than 2 miles from the Gulf of Mexico for the past 23 years and it does not have any major rust issues. or at least the frame is rust free anyway.

putting the brackets in the proper place was not all that hard... well it would have been easier if the rhino liner wouldent cover up the hole just after i drilled it.. but my MJ came with bucket seats, I havent even wanted to take on the task of putting in bucket seats into dad's MJ.

good to know :thumbsup:

I got my center Console back in, hopefully this time for good. and this time i actually used all the mounting hardware, so its not going anywhere any time soon :D Still need to swap out my front axle, replace the U-Joint of the front drive shaft, and connect the linkage for the transfer case. But at least I can still drive it around town.

it feels like the rear is locking up, but after i drive around some it stops. but my Jeep does pull to one side a little when brakes are applied. I am not losing any fluid however so if a cyl failed i am not currently losing fluid. I already had some new rear brake shoes once i get new drums i was going to replace the rear brakes all together, i have already replaced the springs and the self adjuster on both sides.

this only happens every now and then, but If my MJ has been unused for a day or two, after i start the MJ and and the first couple times i barely tap the brakes it acts like the brakes lock up, but it usually stops after it has run for a few min. and the brakes work like normal. I the only brake modifications i have done was upgrading the BB and replace the Master Cyl with what ever was attached to the newer BB.. I pulled a BB from a WJ and a 97+ XJ, I do not remember what combo I ended up with, all i know is the brake petal is a inch or so farther out than the clutch and gas petals. I still have the Prop valve. thanks,

i have General Grabber AT2. Is there some method to find the ideal pressure? I don't tow or haul with it often and the last "heavy" load was a trailer with 1000 lbs of gravel.

As the title says, What is the proper tire inflation pressure for 31x10.5 R15 tires for our MJs? Currently I think they are at 30 PSI.

got my center console installed