Blue88Comanche

You are experiencing the day of pranks, tomorrow you should be able to spell your favorite Jeep model again. Check the resistor on the drivers side of the engine compartment, forward of the windshield washer tank on the fender. there should be two wires. if that went bad you will experience pump issues

There is a link in my first post to Hornbrod's fuel pressure gauge mod It just adds a gauge to the fuel rail

I installed the fuel pressure *gauge mod and idling at a cold start is at about 30 - 31 psi Another question, is there a difference between the Renix and HO fuel rail? That port the gauge goes on seems to be located differently on Hornbrod XJ. * Edit

Myself, Joe Cool, and my younger brother chilling on the tailgate of my truck.

Found his actual page. Like the Backbone this thing REALLY strengthens the front of an MJ/XJ. http://www.orsfab.com/index.html Link did not work for me try this http://www.orsfab.com/ or http://www.orsfab.com/bumpers.html

The fuel pump is likely to be the original.

When you get the linkage be sure to get everything. Including the body side linkage mount. I think those where also different between the transmissions.

Here is that alternative linkage i was referring to http://www.bsfab.net/?p=26

I know I have a small vacuum leak for a year or so. It just started acting up in the past week and more so today. But on the way home it did fine.

Look on my build thread for the Novak cable install. I had a reference article to another method of replacing the linkage. It would need a junkyard trip and a few items from the hardware store. I think it's page 9. But I know it's there. I can post a link here when I get back to a computer if you like. Edit: I also have the Novak install in the DIY section it will also have that reference.

the best way is to remove the cover and if you get something looking like the picture below, you have a lunchbox locker. Note the lunchbox locker replaces the spider gears and this as the inside of an open diff with the stock spider gears if you don't want to remove the cover, make sure the TC is set for 4wd. lift the axle high enough so the wheels spin freely. Now spin the tires if the other tire spins in the reverse direction then you should have an open diff. to test functionally of an auto locker may require two people. spin one tire till it stops and hold it, then spin the other tire the same direction till it stops, next spin one tire in the reverse direction, it should not stop and you should hear a ratchet type sound coming from the diff. Edit: If you do remove the front diff cover get a picture and post it if you are still having trouble.

I would ensure the cad is in the locked position using the above provided link and keep it locked. Now something that was not covered yet is, do you know if your diff has a locker installed? It could have a lunchbox locker and that is what the mechanic was referring, along with stating the cad was locked.

Today on my way to work the engine in my XJ started acting up. A few times while I was at speed it felt like it lost half its power for a moment then picked up again. Once while sitting at a red light it almost stalled while idling. I am currently at work so I can't check on anything at the moment. But I have ordered the parts to do Hornbrod's Permanent Fuel Rail Pressure Gauge Mod. I have been wanting to do it for a while and decided now would be a good time. How would one go about testing fuel injectors? As far as I know, they are the ones that came with the truck from factory. This weekend I will check the spark plugs, if I have the money I may replace them anyway. The Plug wires where replaced within the past 5 years, I just don't recall exactly when. The Jeep has about 185,000 Miles. I am 85% sure most of the sensors, ignition, and fuel components are original, less the spark plugs and wires.

So I have to look for another AX-15 MJ/XJ to scrounge at least the linkage & front driveshaft from. Bummer. Any chance the BA 10/5 Transfer case linkage would work? There is enough adjustment in the linkages that it may work. I used the NP231 shifter linkage on my LJ with the NP242 I installed and made a very minor adjustment. You could always buy Novak's cable shifter and not have to worry about it. The problem will be the transmission side TC shifter bracket. When I went from BA-10 to AX-15 I did not have that bracket and could not hook anything up. And those brackets are different. That's why I bought the Novak cable shifter kit.

I have a NP242J on my AX-15 and if i recall correctly it is a med length input. so does it work, Yes... Do I have any issues, No...

I would look into the WJ LCAs. it fixed my rubbing issue with my 10.5 inch wide tires

Yes my Signature has links to various manuals including the 1988 FSM EDIT: the folder 88 FSM contains sections of the FSM in PDF format, if you want wo download them all at once, look under the reference docs folder and download the 88fsm zip folder. if there is anything anyone would like to contribute to my "repository" send me a PM

:popcorn: going from 92 to 97+? I can't really help with the swap, but while you have the fenders off that would be a good time to install the later in fender windshield washer fluid tank. it will free up some room in the engine compartment.

I mostly did this mod to keep my tires from rubbing the LCAs. was anyone going to do the UCA swap as well? I plan do do it in the future when i get around to replacing the axle side UCA bushings.

If I had a/c.... I'd cut a12 out of the ecu. install a relay with pins 30 connected on ecu side and 87 to the truck side. would also wire c2 at the ecu probably with a diode contact a to truck b to ecu c to switch then cut wire d2 and attach a diode with contact a to the truck spliced to pin 85 of the relay. contact c to the diode do your switch and output ( B) to the ecu. final wire to pin 86 to ground. what this would do would allow the override to lock the ecu in constant high rpm with out runing the a/c pump constantly, but would still allow the a/c pump to cycle with the thermostat as designed. If really needed i can draw out a schmatic of this idea and others could comment or use it. Let me know if it's desired. That sounds like an awesome idea for us with AC.

They pulled everything apart and check the bearing, races, and gears. He said it looked fine and to bring it back in a few weeks for another check up. It rained over the weekend so I was not able to check the pattern yet. After driving it more it does sound better than when I first got it back.

The front drive shafts are balanced, the 4wd system is rated at normal road speeds. my cad has been locked for a while before i swapped to a Non-CAD HP D30, I know not of the issues you where having. even with the front drive shaft removed i did not notice a difference.

I would check the Vacuum lines running from the transfer case to the CAD and the 4WD switch. If you wanted you can lock the cad so it is always locked. this way if you will have 4wd and not worry if the cad actually locked or not. I won't hurt anything to have it locked over, and in 89 or 90 they did away with the cad all together. EDIT: Here is the cad fix link http://comancheclub.com/topic/17377-cad-fix-1/

what year is your truck?

Looks like that coupon was a limited quantity. It is no longer valid.