H3RESQ

A pretty picture.

I would personally go the half door route, make them removable but have a set of half doors to switch too. Keep in mind if you ever get into a tree or rock without the door completely off it can catch and create more damage by getting inside your cab and smashing your b pillar area pretty bad making it hard to ever close the door upon re installing. At least with a door on it will usually still open and shut after a bad encounter with tree or rock. As for structural, anyone that has had a XJ and wheeled it hard knows the tailgate issues that can happen, and thats with it there. So I would say rock sliders are a must for structure support without doors for wheeling. For street, I think most states require a certain amount of drop inside cab to be legal without doors. Check your local laws to see before hitting the open road. While your at it consider what you will feel like in that unlikely chance of being T boned. I think half or tube doors are best for vehicle protection, personal protection, and safety. I once saw a guy roll with no doors and get pinned in his rig because a rock about the size of a 33 inch tire was in his lap. Somehow he got real lucky and it didn't break any bones. Oh, and most importantly. MJ's just look funny with no doors at all on them... :cheers: but thats just opinion as well. Cheers.

Thanks guys! So got on a ramp today and used a tape measure. I shortened my rear bumps to proper length. The front is currently as I got it and bumped by the shocks. I took measurements for front and will hopefully get some bumps set up for it next week. I forgot to take pictures when I ramped it forward, but here is a couple of it backed up the ramp. Going out to Elbi tomorrow for some fun. Looks like good weather and rig is ready for some more action.

Best bet is a axial ax-10. There are less exspensive rtr crawlers but none that have near the aftermarket following. You can get one new or look on rccrawler.com's for sale section and pick up a used one. If you go new che k out tcscrawlers.com or your local rc shop. If they have crawlers they will have axial.

Ya its weird. I see a mj every couple days in olympia. Not many built though

I know, but I'm inviting mj owners/comanche club guys. Not cherokee or huge turnout situation. Plus just had to throw a little razzing out. :)

Well....meeting 8am at Walmart parking lot by Roy y So....two posts, no responses. Is everyone on here really just WEB WHEELERS?? :hmm:

I'll be up at Elbi about 8:30 this sunday.

If anyone on here has questions as far as electronics, build, suspension, etc etc on there RC's let me know. You can also find me under H3RESQ on rccrawler.com. I have been into RC crawling for over 8 years.(created/designed Mantis chassis, sold to DNA for production) I competed on pro level for over three years, but retired last year. I drove for Castle Creations, MaxAmps, Holmes Hobbies, TCS, and VP. So I can probably answer about any questions about there products. Also, Check out TCScrawlers.com. They have the best customer service you will ever find within the crawler world. Kevin is a great guy and has been into crawling since the early days of Super's being the top class and 2.2's being built with TLT axles. You couldn't support a better guy that supports the crawler community like no other. Cheers, Jason

If you can get a second person, have them sit and slowly work the steering wheel back and forth just past the dead spot. While there doing that look under the front and watch every joint, bolt, link end, steering, etc. one at a time. You can usually spot whats loose or worn by doing this. Cheers, Jason

Gosh, thats just to bad it forced you into that upgrade. :drool: :cheers:

Got to the rear bumpers tube work today. Not to many pictures of actual work, was busy doing the work. Got some pics of the welding (my weak point, thank goodness for some friends that are great welders) Here is the finished bumper. Now I gotta figure out if I'm going to leave the front bumper alone or build a new one before I send it all to powdercoat.

Love the truck, can't wait to wheel it more. I feel ya Korie, its tough when ya sell a rig to see it after. Cheers

Oops, I always put it behind my back to check my blind spot when entering freeway too. J/k

Lap belt is on.... Ha....Years of wheeling have made me go back and forth from just the lap or the shoulder on too. Just depends on how hairy the obstacle and how much it is locking up on me when I try and lean to see stuff. .......always a lap belt on though.

I didn't build it. I am the third owner since built. I am and have however began to mod it for wheeling. I have a thread on it under H3RESQ ...build continues.

Jason. I live in Olympia, Wa. Go by H3RESQ on all forums.

Hey guys, My name is Jason Been on here awhile and guess I have yet to post up here and introduce my MJ properly. It is my 4th Comanche I have owned. The basics....90 Eliminator, with 99 XJ exterior/interior conversion. D44 rear, 30 front locked at both ends with Detriots. Chromo's f/r as well. 4.7 stroker...Keith Black forged pistons, Harland Sharp rockers, port/polish, etc, etc. 35's held in place by a Rockcrawler long arm, and spring over rear.

NICE! Gosh I love white comanches

Going with a couple friends to Tahuya on the 14th. Any comanche guys are welcome to join. If you have not been there it is very mellow. 31's are about all that would be needed. everything has bypass, or can be skipped cause its just a turn around at end of obstacle. 33's,1 locker, sliders, and a winch(and we have winches so thats not a must) will get you anywere in Tahuya. Also...if your comanche is not ready yet but you want to get out, I might have my passenger seat available. PM me and I'll give ya my number if your interested.

i run a 10'' stroke shock with a 4'' stroke bump stops. so @ ride height the shocks only have 1'' of compression before the start of the bumps & @ full droop the bumps hit the coils. i recommend to go with a 2'' stroke bump stops (shorty's) this will give you more affective compression & they will not hit the coils like mine in the pic's. for me , Fox makes shims to adjust the stroke! i need these to fix this problem! Perfect, thanks for the info. Once I lower mine I will only have the option of the shortys. I'll probably have only a inch or 1.5 before the bumps hit pads with 2" bumps.

There are many link options, I still believe that bushing at frame and johnny joint (or like joint) at axle create best street ride. I've tried many lifts and styles over the years. Sand, dirt, and water will reach joints at both ends. Maintnance is key to anything surviving. Joints at one end create plenty of flex for any dd wheeler, anything beyond doesn't really help you in real world wheeling.. just my opinion, right or wrong

I average 13mpg. Best is staying at 60 max on freeway...that nets almost 15mpg. Around town or over 70 I'm getting 12.5 at best!

Great thread. My only comment to add would be that I would have the adjustable end of link at axle and the bushing end at frame (err, unibody) makes for a quiter setup and I personally find it easier for fine adjustments at axle end.

Junkyard zj (93-98) grand cherokee is the way to go on a budget. Most any pull apart junkyard should have them.