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Pm me your #. If were coming into town before you head out we can go to Americas tire and roll in with you guys. We may be a little late to catch you though. Its a good hour forty there and well stop for coffee at least once on way. I can put the Addy in my GPS and know within minutes of our arrival time once were on our way there and have had our coffee break. So might be able to make it work. Cheers, Jason

.....if your driving your MJ.

Your a tad, err....way late on this....... viewtopic.php?f=7&t=30552 Ya, I comented on the front axle. I didn't think it would hold up, and it didn't. Really nice rig though. I'd wheel it.

Our Namja CC members (so far, set89, cody4359, and I) will be meeting in Olympia Auto Mall at Shell station at 8am. Anyone from the area is more than welcome to convoy with us. Jason

I thought about this for my axle to keep lug pattern and unit bearing simplicity, but its just not worth the weak c and knuckle. I would never even consider putting hydro assist to that front end. Basically if you can bend the C's, tubes and break off knuckles knowing your running a 30 then there is no point in creating the false sense of security in having a 44 with those outers. JMO Brace that C!!!!

Hmmm, thats a might big stinger you have there. I like the wheels, tough looking.

That looks way too familiar. :( Willy Considering its high pinion and I was reversing (front end buried on lower crushers) uphill I'm not really suprised. Broke shaft and I'm sure the torque load on coast side of gear upon breaking of shaft was not very nice on the ring gear that was on half tooth of pinion. 30's and my foot don't get along well....lol.

I feel ya....I picked this one up used for $100!!!! I liked that price. Ya, they will get set up this time by someone that I know can do them right. I'm guessing that it broke from the shock load when I broke the short side shaft. Glad it was showing when I opened the diff or might not have known. Took me awhile to find the peice that broke off. It was one chunk completely in tact. I wheeled on the ring gear twice!! Guess I never hit the week point under initial power. LUCKY

Well decided it was time to put fresh u-joints in the 30 along with the aluminum outer seals and fresh fluid. This is what I found when I dropped the diff cover... Will order some fresh 4.88's monday and get them going. Hate putting $ into the 30, with my 44 sitting on the garage floor. Looks like I'll be running the 30 for Moab so gotta get it fresh for the trip. I have to many plans for the 44 swap to have it done by Moab. Did get my AEV rear 44 Diff/Driveline gaurd installed and got both the covers painted black and fresh Lucas installed in the rear diff. Some good came of the day. 44 Looks much better without silver diff covers. I like the clean simple look.

Beautiful truck and well deserving of "Comanche of the month" Cheers!

Thats a bad @$$ looking cover. Were and how much?

I'll try and stop by the dealership on Monday and talk with the guy. They set me up with there "best guy" they have, or so I was told. He did seem to know what he was doing and there is no question that it runs better now than when i brought it in.

I do care :cheers: I'm not really sure what they were doing but I do know that it is now running 4% lean(when I brought it to them it was at 18%). I knew it was running rich when I purchased it, but never had it checked and don't know why it started running lean once I rebuilt it :doh: . I didn't really look into how to go about fixing the problem beyond pricing the possiblility of a stand alone ECU and having it tuned on a dyno. It seems to be running better now than when I bought it, I'm not sure however if the milage is any better due to less fuel being dumped into it or what to compare it to from before it failed. (24lb blue ford injectors) I'm always up for comments or suggestions. If you have any comments or ideas on what else I could do to know what my motor is doing.....I'm listening. I will say even though everyone said it was fine I as well felt for 12k the cylinders looked bad.

I don't really make it over to naxja much, but set89 and I are heading up from olympia if you wanna join the comanche club (namja) convoy ;)

Just registered the MJ. Hope to see some of you there.

Thanks!!! I like your MJ too!

Thanks Partsmj. So the update. ITS RUNNING! and better than when I bought it. So, I finally brought it to jeep. They tuned the ECU, and replaced the plugs with basic Champions and replaced the Accel Coil with a Mopar one. They were great (loved the jeep) and allowed me to be there each step of the way. Was interesting watching everything imporove on the programmer readouts with plugs and then improve even more when the coil was replaced as well. I guess some things are better not being "upgraded". It will be in the lakefair car show tonight. Thanks for your guys links and help. All was appreciated!

Thanks RockMJ. Got the motor up and running and broke cam in. Once it idled down after break in I have a rough idle and rough respose right off idle. Once its to about 1500 it smooths out. The problem is once I actually drive the truck it shudders under any load. I can put along but if I try any amount of real acceleration it shudders and runs rough with no power (seems its running lean) I think I have traced it down to the cam sensor and ... sensor not being exactly in sync.(injectors and spark not exactly in sync) I have tried a few things and sadly feel I might have to just bring it to the local Jeep dealer and see what they can do on a scope and with there special distributor. I made an appointment for friday but will continue to mess with it tonight and tomorrow probably. Any ideas will be listened to. Cheers, Jason

Thanks drcomanche! Got all my parts compiled. Pulling the oil pan tonight and doing all engine clean up. Should be starting rebuild tomorrow morning! Excited to get the MJ back up and running.

I don't think you need to worry about your catalytic converter. For over 30+ years almost all of them survived hundreds of thousands of miles each. :thumbsup: Willy Actually, looks like the cat was new with motor. If so it only made it 8k or so. It failed on me and is why I ended up doing the whole exhaust over to go with a slightly quiter muffler at the same time and route it a little different.

Yes it did have proper break in oil. Have the reciepts for it. I do not know however if the cam/motor was broke in proper. But if it was, I doubt it would have made it 12k. Well I continue to keep researching. At this point I'm still leaning towards zinc being the issue. I don't deny I could be wrong though. I think either way there will be zinc in the oil from this day forward just to be on the safe side. Cats are a lot easier to replace than cams. WOW! The ole MJ looks great! I'm super impressed with the finishing touches you've put on it an even more excited to see you wheelin' it! I'm just getting back into the Jeep scence as I took a break over last 6 months. I stumbled across your build thread from my old build on JF. I am sad to see the cam/lifter failure, BUT as you said I feel like it was due to improper oil useage as well. I can testify that motor was broken in correctly (this wasn't my first motor rebuild) using Comp Cams Break-In oil. I can't speak to what oil the second owner ran but I had been running the Comp Cams 10w30 Muscle and Street Rod oil which has higher levels of zinc. I know it's more of a hassle to run it because you can't just run down to the parts store to pick it up but I felt it was worth it for the added peace of mind. Just an FYI, you can order it by the case from Summit, part number 1594-12. Again, you've done a AWESOME job with the truck and I look forward to seeing it back on the road. I don't get on CC much any more but feel free PM me and I'll give you my email address if you ever have questions. Thanks for the kind words. It feels good to know the builder likes were I'm going with the truck. Its an amazing rig. PM sent. Cheers, Jason

Yes it did have proper break in oil. Have the reciepts for it. I do not know however if the cam/motor was broke in proper. But if it was, I doubt it would have made it 12k. Well I continue to keep researching. At this point I'm still leaning towards zinc being the issue. I don't deny I could be wrong though. I think either way there will be zinc in the oil from this day forward just to be on the safe side. Cats are a lot easier to replace than cams.

Hey guys, Be sure to pick up a spare TPS for the truck. I have hood vents in my hood as well (not as big as yours) and I have lost my TPS do to water twice. (car wash..once. lol) With those holes directly over it I think you have a good chance of having the same thing happen. Just throwing it out there. LOVE THE TRUCK!!!!!! Cheers, Jason EDIT....Looks like your not actually cutting them out.

Its running comp cam 68-231-4 and 822-12 lifters. They were from Summit, and I reordered new ones from Summit. I ordered the same cam and lifters for rebuild. I don't believe there the cause for the failure. It could possibly have been a small piece of debris that caused lifter to fail. I believe though that it was to switching to mobil 1 and lucas additive...It became the first time the truck was run without zinc in the oil. I didn't realize or know to see if the lucas additive had zinc. Flat tappet motors need zinc, especially when the compression has been bumped up. I am putting this repair on myself to lack of knowledge to the motors needs and running a low zinc content oil. They have taken zinc out of most oils because it is a cataytic converter killer. Race oils still contain zinc and you can also get zinc addatives for your oil to fix the issue of our old school design motors needs. Also something to note. A buddy of mine built a 4.6 stroker and had the same failure, same lifter, and same cam lobe flattened. It was right when they were starting to take the zinc out of most oils. I have spent a lot of time on Jeep Strokers the last few day. Great info site except not having a search engine. Although once you put a header in a post it will show you possible posts that might be similair before your able to type your post. So kinda a search engine that can be used by starting a post and then not actually posting anything. No one on the forum seemed to think the carbon on cylinders was that big of a deal or to out of the ordinary for strokers.

Well got it tore down. bad lifter, and cam. Also notice the timing cover had some clearance issues. As of now, I'll reorder the same comp cam and lifters and hope it is failure due to improper break in or simply bad cam/ bad luck. For 12k miles it seems to have a lot of carbon buildup on cylinders too. Any comments?? can you spot the bad lifter? :thumbsup: