acfortier

100% agree. Even if it's the simplest things. I can't imagine paying someone to swap out a radiator. I spent yesterday putting the trailer hitch on my MJ all by myself, and it was nice to be outside wrenching, if it took me longer because I was by myself.

Got the interior pieces installed, some of the epoxied washers didn't make it... but they're somehow holding the pieces tight so something worked Decided to put in a new door seal on the driver's side while I was there--easy enough! Got the Euramtec lights wired up with the correct terminals in the correct spots per: Waiting on an order of those nice extra wide flange head philips screws from eBay to start replacing the crappier ones. Used those flange head ones for the trim pieces, so I poached from the instrument cluster. Ended up installing Krusty's hitch today, outlined here:

Just got around installing on my '91 today, since the weather was decent. I'm a bit confused since I didn't need to use the provided nuts and washers? Not sure if earlier model MJs don't have the welded nut in the frame rail like mine? I had the same issue as @mikekaz1 with the spacing on the shackle bolt. Mine also isn't centered under the bumper--not sure if it's my truck or something else, but you can kinda see it here: Spacing on the passenger's side between hitch and bumper bracket: Which is a lot bigger than the driver's side: Also ended up somehow stripping one of the welded nuts in the frame rail for the bumper bracket bolts. Not idea how, wasn't even using power tools. Took the bolt out and ended up taking some of the threads with the bolt, whoops! Should be fine enough, I don't plan on towing THAT much, lol. Also, I have a stock-ish exhaust (fairly certain they are all Walker pieces and the clearance between hitch and exhaust pipe is extremely small--it'll definitely bump going down the road. Going to see if I can bend it, but probably not a big deal.

Yes, that sounds about right. Middle was off completely. I wired them up today with new terminals, Pink > Yellow > Black. Now, in the middle position, they work with the doors, but up or down seem to always be on. I think that's correct?

Yes, pink was wired to one end, yellow to the other, black wasn’t connected in the middle. Pushing the light from down to middle to up would induce flickering, at least for one of them.

Would have been hood and header panel, seems unlikely. It's probably likely someone just bought the chief stickers and slapped them on. @kryptronic actually purchased a set in his build thread.

Yeah, I’m assuming the yellow wire is the same as the black w/ tracer.

Yeah, those were already there when I bought the truck. I planned on putting the correct size on.

My dome lights have been flaky at best... It looks like the black wire isn't hooked up to the Euramtec light at all, should that be connected to the middle terminal on the light? I assume pink is still power, and yellow is the switched ground for the door?

I wonder if there was a custom order to put those decals on the hood. I can see this on the build sheet, but isn't very descriptive: K2B STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR K3A STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR KKS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR KWS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR

As of recently, my truck starting leaking oil... badly. After some investigation, I thought it might be the oil filter housing, so replaced those o-rings. It got some-what better, but not completely gone. Outlined it here: Also, during that replacement, the no-start issue came back. Really strange, still can't figure it out. Anyways, haven't done much to it since then, but decided to tackle a couple nagging light issues. First, the dash hasn't been put back together completely in some time. Was waiting on a few different things, so I may as well complete them! I realized that the HVAC deck should be illuminated, and it wasn't. Took that all apart, found the bulb--seems to be burnt out. Ordered some LED replacements to swap out. I've added fog lights, and since need to put the switch in place. SEM Color Coat'd (with Landau Black, as I had it on hand) one of the switch covers, and it came out great. I noticed that I don't have a light that illuminates the trim ring around the cigarette lighters--went ahead and ordered that piece from eBay. Had to swap around an LED bulb in the cluster since it wasn't turning on--had it in backwards. The A-pillar on the driver's side wasn't sticking in correctly for some time. The holes for the push pins were covered by the new headliner, so I cut that back and replaced my make-shift pins with some I got from Team Cherokee. Additionally, one of the screw tabs was completely broken, so I decided to use some epoxy and a washer to fix it. Hopefully it'll hold up. Seemed pretty strong, so I decided to do the B pillar as well, since that one was broken.

That's... strange. Yeah, Google searching 1991 Pioneers doesn't show any others with hood decals.

Pioneer should too--or at least mine does.

Strange--the parts catalog doesn't list the hood/header panel decals for the Pioneer..

Oh, you're right--Google gave me the wrong company.

I wonder if they'd be able to work with the one that's already on my Comanche. Are the hood decals still kicking around? Actually, I just realized, Phoenix Graphics is located in Nashua, NH. I could probably reach out and bring my truck to them...

Let me know if there's anything you need from me to help with this! A paint job may be closer in my future than I thought

Oh, that'd be EPIC! I wonder if they'd be able to make a short bed one from the long bed kit.

Decided to give SEM Color Coat a whirl (since I had some already) and didn't come out too shabby!

Dreading the day I want to repaint my truck since I don't know if I'll be able to replace the decals...

Wow, under $100 USD per each wheel is a great price. Quotes around me were $150-200 per wheel to refinish.

Same here. Traded my black buckets for a black bench, call me crazy!

What ended up being wrong with the original 2.1L?

Assuming it is an actual Metric Ton and someone didn't just swap in the badges and leaf packs... yeah, it doesn't make sense to swap out the D44 for a 8.25.