acfortier

Did the O2 sensors differ for a 1999 2.5L vs. 2000 4.0L? Does seem unlikely that both went bad.

#12?

Looks great! Except for the upside down grille

I noticed that too, though I do love the blue cluster more than the black/red one. I didn't think you could use the blue cluster gauges for HOs.

What is that mirror on the driver's side? Doesn't look like there is one on the passenger's side?

I'd love it if someone could make the '91+ Pioneer decals, but not sure how to go about that since it's on my truck.

Ha, don’t tempt me, I love me some AMC V8s

Ah, right--and I assume you can't find any more of the sensors to even use them? Makes sense.

How come the brake sensor won't work?

The top 231J is a NP231. The other numbers can be decoded, like in the image on this site: https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transfer-cases/np231

I had a Cadillac branded mountain bike that was pretty sweet, until it got stolen off of my back porch in Boston. Sigh.

I did the electrical tape method. There's actually still some stuck to the two bolts that I threaded in, lol. I'm swapping in a 32RH into my Eagle, which doesn't have a CPS, but the 32RH has a hole for it. I tried just a simple 3/4" plastic plug, but it doesn't really stay in the hole. The thickness of the bellhousing is the issue I think. @Dandxj, what hole covers are you referring to?

Preferably black, but I know that's probably as rare as hen's teeth, so gray?

Just need the female ends, not the retractors. LMK what you got!

Meh, oil is cheap enough, I probably wouldn't risk it

Yeah, I think after 5 years for conv. oil, and like 7-8 for syn. oil, they start to break down, even if they haven't been opened. I wouldn't use that Pennzoil.

Thanks for this! I did that similar testing with another person, but using those leads will definitely make it a bit easier. I'm not sure if the issue went away too quickly when I tested with another person, because after I verified voltage at the coil plug, it fired up again. I had in the past, and nothing came up. I'll check again.

I've isolated my issue to spark--pre-distributor. Actually, forgot to check the input voltage on the ignition coil when it wasn't working yesterday. Can't tell if it's a faulty coil, or if there is something else that controls spark is going bad.

Happened again today, sigh. Not sure what to replace next. Maybe I'll pick up a spare coil? @Minuit did you have a suggestion/recommendation to check?

After much debate, decided to pick up another NP128 from a JY instead of the more common NP129 (only had to drive an hour, so it wasn't too bad). If the VC goes, don't really want to have to deal with that... Needed a good cleaning, and picked up some degreaser from Home Depot. Seemed to work pretty good. Before: After: Should have thought about this first, but... it seems I can't get the 4WD to disengage no matter how I move the lever back and forth. Not really a big issue, since it can be in 4WD all the time, but seems a little odd.

Got COVID this past week, so haven't been able to work on the Eagle. I'm concerned with the slop of the current TC, so I think I'm going to get a replacement. $150 from a JY isn't too bad, and trying to decide if I want to go with another NP128 (open diff.) or NP129 (viscous coupling). NP129s are more common since they were found in more years, seems like the NP128 was '86 only. Why? Who knows... lol. It seems, from what I can glean off the web, that the NP129 is actually preferred. There's one nearby with 58,000 miles, so that's not too bad. Rebuilding really isn't an option--would cost way more (just like the transmission). Haven't taken off the old TC from the transmission yet, but I'm expecting the output shaft from the 32RH is different than the one on the TF998, and Novak kinda confirms it: https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/gearing Never taken one of them apart, but shouldn't be too bad if I need to swap the old output shaft from the TF998 to the 32RH. Also, not sure if I need to use the existing flexplate or the flexplate that came with the 32RH... Purchased some 6AN lines and fittings to plumb up the transmission cooler. Plan on replacing the transmission mount, u-joints on both driveshafts, rear main on the engine, dropping the pan and refinishing it, among other things. I figure, I'm there, may as well do it.

Should be able to pull the starter/inspection plate to see the teeth, then have someone rotate it via the crank bolt to see the entire thing?

Yeah, that’s what I feared. Hahah right!!!

Was slightly concerned about this NP128 I pulled out of my Eagle. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Iy_F09f7BiygBVnW8j3VALKA5UOqcGfF/view?usp=sharing Is that a normal noise?