05mxdiesel

I wish I would of seen this earlier. New years eve I bent my main leaf at the eye dragging the spring plate (SUA) over a log. It basically made the sping about an inch and half longer on the one side. I picked up a jy set yesterday for now though.

Yes transmission must be dropped unless you have a new external slaved AX-15. Plan to spend half a day or so to replace it. I did it myself but a helper makes it a whole lot easier.

Its probably your exhaust cooling and contracting.

I just did mine this weekend completely by myself. Its not too bad, with help, you could do it in 2 hours or less. A couple notes, if you split the transfer case from the trans, drain the oil from both. Also there is no need to drop the exhaust but it would make it a lot easier. Its a good idea to clean your cps and replace your rear main if needed. The two top bolts are star bolts, but the rest of the work can be accomplished by basic sockets and wrenches.

I actually saw your MJ in New Smyrna that day, I was sitting in McDonalds getting my kids food when you rolled past. The paint job looks much better in person.

I have the 9000 shocks and they suck on a 3" lift. One rear blew out after 4k miles and I only haul motorcycles. One front shock squeaks like crazy when cycled. Other than that they work fine but I don't plan on them lasting very long.

Definitely worth the $$$. Eliminates the tie rod end, rebuildable, tightens up steering, beefy frame mount, and easy to adjust for lift if you decide to go higher later on.

I just left the lines connected to the tcase after I locked my cad, the metal lines by the passenger side control arms I ripped out. There is a vacume line below the coolant overflow tank that needs capped.

I started replacing everthing in my front end to eliminate a clunk. I was convinced it had to be a control arm bushing, turned out to be a u-joint with no grease left in the caps. If your track bar is old replace it anyways, but check tie rod ends and the frame bracket for track bar.

I just replaced mine yesterday, 89 4x4 4.0 was 26mm.

Rob, also I believe Supertech all makes all models extended life cooland does not have silicates in it either. I think this is what I used in my bikes the last time I changed the coolant. Any truck stop will have HOAT coolant designed for big rigs that run cylinder sleeves and are not a parent bore block. Zerex G-05 is good stuff though.

I replaced my track bar with the double shear setup from Iron Rock offroad and I still have a clunk when turning at low speeds after installing a lift. Also check your control arm bolts and tie rods. I am going to start replacing my tie rods and if they don't cure the clunk, adjustable control arms are going in. My stock track bar bracket was nice and tight at 115k but the tie rod end on the bar was bad.

I threw this together in a day and about $70 worth of lumber until I decide whether or not to get new bedsides on the original bed. 64 inches wide, 8 ft long, perfect for hauling firewood, motorcycles or atvs. here's another one from another member below.

Thanks, looking to get the most bang for the buck with a new bracket.

I am looking to upgrade my trackbar since I installed a 3" lift and my stocker has someplay in it. On Motion's website he has an adjustable one with no bracket and the rockkrawler one for $20 more with a new bracket. His website says you do not need a drop pitman arm however others say you do. I would rather replace the bracket with a heavier one so any help would be appreciated. http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_30_232&products_id=126 http://www.rockkrawler.com/index.php?r_intro=no

When I bleed brakes I use a turkey a baster to suck all the fluid out of the master cylinder and fill it back up prior to bleeding. This helps especially when starting out with rear lines since it takes a while to get fresh fluid out of of the bleeders.

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The vacume motor can go bad and the easy and cheap fix is to lock the shift fork in. My 89 that I bought a few months ago was permanently locked over when I bought it. Whenever I pull into my driveway slow and there is a little gravel on the blacktop, the front tires will pull and slide on the gravel, only happens in slow speed turns. U-joints can also cause binding and make clunking and grinding noises.

Your cad is probably permanently locked which can cause a slight bind in the steering.

When you leave one of the bleeders open in the front, all pressure gets sent to the rear, which kicks the brake light on. While all the pressure is being forced to the rear, the bypass line from the height sensoring valve will get bled. If the all the pressure is not forced forced to the rear, air will remain in the lines. I spent two hours bleeding brakes and could not get them right until I found out the proper procedure.

Get 92+ Cherokee links, they are a little over an inch longer than stock comanche links, works perfect with 3" lift.

Here is a pic with 235/75/15 which are about .5" smaller than 30s and 3 inch rc lift. The pic is before I installed the add a leaf. It added about .75" to the rear.

Thanks guys, what a stupid place for it. Its not like there is no extra room in the engine compartment.

There is a small ball in the front passenger side fender behind the bumper. It looks to be some sort of vacume canister. What is it for? It is just sitting in there loose and was planning on moving it to the engine compartment. Thanks

Amsoil has plenty of ci-4 oil in 15w40 and 10w30 viscosities. Also I believe Mystik still sells oil that it is ci-4.