05mxdiesel

I used that method on my 05 dodge to get to the balljoints. The steering is alot stronger than anything I can throw at it.

You got the absolute bare minimum in one box. For those of you getting the rough country 3" kit, 92+ cherokee sway bar end links work perfect with this height lift. I got the nitro shocks with mine and yes they are a little firm, but the ride is nice and tight on bumpy roads. I also added CJ front brake lines since I was redoing the front calipers, rotors and pads. They are atleast 2" longer.

92+ cherokee links are exactly 1 inch longer than stock comanche links. Worked out perfect with my 3" lift.

I bought the semi metallic, which are oem replacements, ceramics wear the rotor more but last longer.

You plug the BOTTOM front outlet on the front metering block. The thread is 1/2" fine thread. The shortest bolt I was able to find in a 1/2" fine was 1-inch -- I cut it to the length that allowed it to just seat with an O-ring under the head, then I put a glob of RTV on the end before I installed it. Discussed in this thread, toward the end: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=22773&p=235043&hilit=bolt+proportioning+block#p235043 Thanks eagle I did not see that when searching. I would of already of removed mine but it was still functional so I left it.

You take the front "nose" line from the metering block beside the master cylinder and run a new line the whole way to the rear axle rubber hose. Then you remove the other rear line and put a bolt or brass plug in the metering block losing the bypass line. My previous post I was talking about the plug you need to buy for the metering block. Search proportioning valve on here, there is some nice diagrams and pictures. Is there anything wrong with your valve?

He still needs to find out the thread and size of the threaded inserts for our brake lines for the plug that gets inserted into the MJ proportioning valve by the master cylinder. Trust me I have searched through everything on here and other forums about the rear height sensoring valve. I ended up keeping mine for now and just repairing the rear lines, but in the future I will remove it. In all of the threads on here one person talks about the size being a standard size. The best thing to do, is to go to a parts store get a piece of 3/16 brake line, take the threaded fitting on the brake line and match it up to a bolt or brass plug.

I wish I would of saw this a few days ago after replacing calipers, pads, rotors, and all the rear lines. If you do any kind of brake work in the rear that involves opening up the system, please read this. I spent about two hours trying to bleed lines, while getting screamed at by my wife who was working the pedal. Everytime I went back to the rear I was getting air out of the lines. Thanks to who posted this before. Yeah, the rear proportioning valve DOES require a special procedure. First, bleed all four wheels normally. After that, the FSM says to do the following: Quote: After bleeding the brake calipers and cylinders the rear brake by-pass line must also be bled. Open a front caliper bleed fitting and depress the brake pedal to the floor. This will shuttle the by-pass differential valve and allow fluid to flow through the by-pass line. The brake warning light on the instrument panel will illuminate when the ignition key is in the ON position. This signals the shuttling of the valve. Re-Bleed the rear brake cylinders with the front caliper bleed fitting open. After re-bleeding the rear brake cylinders the entire system must be bled again. Bleed the brake calipers and cylinders in the following sequence: 1st -- Right rear 2nd -- Left rear 3rd -- Right front 4th -- Left front

I bought raybestos pads and rotors from jc whitney, it ended up being cheaper than rockauto due to shipping charges.

Cruising ebay today I was looking for bike parts and ended up with a set of fixed lower control arms for cheap, good for 4.5" lift. So when I get around to getting a new track bar, I will add a 2" spacer for the front. Maybe I should be looking into 31s now when I need new tires. I see the slippery slope coming already. Then I'll want new gears because these 3.07s suck.

Thanks guys. The interior is in good shape aside from the broken console around the trans and transfercase shifters. I have the bench seat which is in good shape and have to keep it incase I have to haul my two little girls. I haven't decided if I would keep the rollbar or not. It sure was a pain in the butt getting it out with rusty bolts and a plastic bedliner to contend with.

Also the serpatine belt had to be the hardest to replace out of all the vehicles I've owned. If I can find a wagoneer front dana 44, I have a isuzu dana 44 with disc brakes. Or I may just get a 8.8 or 8.25 and the leave the 30 alone. This is not a daily driver or a trail only rig. I sold my DD 05 Dodge 2500 CTD two years ago when I lost my job and been truckless since. I was looking for another yota or older ford ranger TTB suspended but I ran across this and couldn't be happier. This site made everything I ran into so far pretty easy with all the writeups and info. I know most of everyone on here wants a short bed but I love my lwb for hauling motorcycles and atvs. The 4.0 runs pretty well, I am going to do a tune up on it and replace the o2 sensor.

I then decided I wanted a small lift but all the vendors on this site had outrageous shipping costs. I went to JC Whitney and got a 3" rough country lift with their 9000 shocks. I also picked up rotors, caliper, pads, cj brake stock brake lines, 92 xj sway bar end links all for free shipping. I got everything together in the front minus a few broken bolts. Then I went to work on the brakes which led me to replace all the lines in the rear and doing a lot of investigating the rear proportioning valve since I thought mine was shot, but I just had rotten lines. I was going to lose the valve but ended up keeping it since it still worked. With the front all buttoned up for now I started cleaning up the frame painted two of the wheels so far. I took it out for a drive in a snow storm we got yesterday. It did really well but my brake pedal is still really soft. This truck reminds me of my 85 Toyota LWB i had when I was 18. With the lift in the front it is finally level. I plan to add a small spacer in the front later on after get a new track bar and lower control arms. When the weather gets a little better I plan on pulling the bed and adding the aal and new shocks along with some painting and cleaning up. I plan to only run 30x9.50s build a rear bumper and some small paintwork on the exterior and call it quits. I have motorcycles to take out on the trails, but this will see a little here there, more hauling than anything.

Ok so I bought this truck in January, it looked to be in really good shape for its age. Then I began working on it and realized it needed a lot of things, mostly minor. I brought it home inspected, horribly warped rotors, 1 out of 3 fuel tank straps, wouldn't warm up, fraying serpentine belt, but I was happy with with it. 114k on the truck and an older gentleman owned it, its whole life. I changed the fuel filter, replaced the fuel tank straps (had to make one j-hook) and checked the air filter. There was mice and bedding all through the air filter housing. Then I went to replace the thermostat and realized it did not have one. I replaced all the fluids and noticed some nice chunks taken out of the spider gears in the rear 35. Also thanks to this site the peugeot fluid swap was made easy. Then I started the ripping the interior out since this site makes everybody aware. I did not think I would have any rust, due to the vinyl floor and general cleaniless of this truck, boy was I wrong. A couple small holes and lots of surface rust. I wirewheeled the floor, por15 all the rust and undercoated it.

I just did this last week. If you have a angle grinder with a wire wheel, use that and for the areas you can't get to with the grinder use a drill and a small wire wheel. I put 1 coat of por 15 down and then two coats of undercoating. I only had a couple of small pin holes which I just tacked them shut with my welder. Also I wire wheeled the bottom of the floorpans and put the por 15 on the areas there was surface rust and then put about 3 heavy coats of undercoating. Pull up the firewall padding and paint under there as well.

I bought this two weeks ago, the only thing it really needed was a gas tank strap, air filter, and all of the mice crap cleaned out of the air filter box and cab. Anyways 89 LWB, 4.0, 30/35, Peogeot, 114k. Floors need a little work, as well as drivers rocker and bed wheelwells, otherwise really good shape for living in the rust belt. I wasn't looking for a Jeep Comanche but love everything about it.

I would like to hear some opinions on this as well, the 89 I just bought cranks forever too. I thought about changing cps first.