JeffN

clean your idle air solenoid out.

the dash components will all be the same, doubt the hoses are. Compressor may be the same, make sure you replace dryer and expansion valve when you do it,

helicoil it

could be the pickup coil in the distributor

the only right way is to put in adjustable ball joints

I was looking at a jeep commander we had at the shop today, the factory interior lights over the doors look like a perfect fit if you don't want the toggle part

make sure you didn't just knock the vacuum block off your heater controls, happens alot when removing/installing a radio

your blend doors are not working properly, i would check to make sure your heater controls are getting vacuum

Oh, the ones along the rocker panel? My 90 Eliminator has them along with some rubber side moldings mixed in and I hate them things personally.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MJ-JEEP- ... 492wt_1165

it has probably soaked into the clearcoat and the only thing you could possibly do it wetsand and buff it out

anywhere from 3 to 10 seconds

just wrap some fiberglass cloth around it and use some epoxy/fiberglass resin to repair it

if the pick up coil in the distributor is bad you would have no spark. Have you checked to see if your injectors are getting a pulse? You would need a noid light to check them

http://dpgoffroad.com/products/csf-hd-3 ... ed-system/ single row that the local parts stores stink, i would go at least 2 rows

your distributor could be 180 degrees out there is a compression tdc and an exhaust tdc on the valves

check fuel pressure, regulator could be bad

most likely is an injector washing out the cylinder walls, smell it and see if it smells like gas. If it is milky colored it is probably antifreeze and you have a blown head gasket/cracked head or cracked block

I am an auto tech and used the coolant flush machine we have at the shop, brand new water pump, not rebuilt. Did a block test to look for exhaust gas in antifreeze, antifreeze is brand new. Clutch fan works perfectly, as does the electric fan. Cap is brand new, fluid level is perfect. Took out the condenser and ran a fin guide over it, although the huge gap between the A/C condenser and radiator seems weird. One thing that bugs me is that there is no rubber "plate" for lack of a better word at the bottom of the radiator. It may be an air guide keeping air from going out the bottom of the radiator once it goes thru the condenser. Oh, i did pull the new pump off and made sure it had the right impeller blade on it for flow, my flow is excellent. I may go have a 4 core radiator made for it using my side tanks, this is driving me nuts

When it get 85 degrees and hotter out the only way I can keep this 90 4.0 from overheating is to turn the heater on full blast, not at all comfortable to drive like that. Using the A/C is a no go when it's that hot out. I am beginning to believe most of it is due to the airflow thru the radiator getting jammed inside the engine bay by not having a real place to escape while driving. I see alot of people put vents in their hoods to let hot air escape, but mine is a 2wd vehicle, not an offroad vehicle. What I am really looking for is ideas, I have a new thermostat, radiator has been boiled out and flow checked, Aux fan has a temp switch that goes off at 200 degrees and works fine. Under 85 degrees it runs right in the middle, just anything above that it gets really hot.

There are a couple wheel repair/refinishing places here in Columbus, they charge $75 and up per wheel. It doesn't look like damage that really needs repair as it isn't really the bead, just the outer lip. Any welder should be able to build up a bead on it, then you can grind it down pretty easily being aluminum. Those are the best looking factory Jeep wheels in my opinion.

That's Colorado red HE4

Stupid question I know but did you check the fluid level? Could be the pump isn't putting out pressure like it should also. If the filter is clogged it will not let enough fluid get to the pump also. I would do a transmission service and see if that fixes it. ****WARNING**** If it has not had regular fluid changes then the new fluid will not have contaminants in it and be "thinner" than the old fluid possibly causing the transmission not to move at all.

did you check fuel pressure? If your regulator isn't regulating it could blast past the injector causing a huge rich condition also Scope the ignition to make sure you don't have a faulty coil. Check the EGR valve and make sure it isn't sticking open telling the o2 sensor it's lean. Unplug the MAP sensor vacuum hose while running and see if the vehicle runs different and make sure it has vacuum at idle

says in the description AC works good