JeffN

anyone who would do that to a ball joint can't even be close to being considered a tech, more like hack. Besides, something looks funny about the way it is installed

Adjustable ball joints are nice, it lets the alignment guy set up your front end to get it into proper alignment specs, so spend the extra cash and do it right. The benefits outweigh the costs by far.

alot of time when it fails leak down it is just the hose in the tank that connects the pump to the sending unit

The pedal pulsing will be warped rotors

most leaks are at the connections, at pump, at dryer, at condenser, at expansion valve and so on and so on. Get a o-ring kit from autozone and put them all in. If the o-rings are bad they will harden in colder weather and really leak fast

put a fuel gauge on it, see how fast it comes up when you turn the key on, and how fast it drops off when you turn the key off. I had the same problem and it turned out to be the hose from the fuel pump to the sending unit letting fuel blow by it.

From decodethis.com VIN 1J4FN78L1KL524191 Year 1989 Engine Type 4.0L L6 Make Jeep Driveline four-wheel drive Model Wagoneer Ground Clearance in. Trim Level Limited 4WD Front Brake Type Disc Manufactured In UNITED STATES Rear Brake Type Drum Body Style SPORT UTILITY 4-DR Anti-Brake System Non-ABS or 4-Wheel ABS Transmission 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Standard Seating 5 MPG Hwy 20 miles/gallon Optional Seating MPG City 15 miles/gallon Tires 205/75R15 Dealer Invoice USD Wheelbase 101.40 in. MSRP $23,455 USD Curb Weight 3491 lbs

Well, we had a dodge full size truck with a v6 (stupid) in it, he had it to 4 shops for low power until it came to us. One of our techs drove it alot trying to get it to act up and never could. Then one day it was unusually warm and when he drove it he turned the A/C on, vehicle was suddenly low on power. He put my Snap-On Modis in it to record the data stream as he drove it, got back to the shop and reviewed the data and found the high side pressure was almost 500lbs!!! He then determined that the aux fan was not working with A/C on and even on highway speeds the truck drove like a turd. He put a new aux fan in and the truck came alive. The compressor was working so hard it was trying to stall the engine in the truck, so when I say the fan should run factory it is because I truly believe the load from the A/C not being properly cooled would be much more than just a little bit more the electrical system would have to put out.

Most likely an out of round drum

If the aux fan is not on when your A/C is on your high side pressure will go thru the roof if you aren't moving fast enough. Sometime the engineers get it right.

is it a limited slip with clutches instead of the planetary gears? If so you need to put some limited slip additive to the gear lube

That gets me thinking, does the distributor you put in have the wrong tone ring in it, I didn't read back to see if yours was a renix or an HO but they could have given you the wrong distributor that has the others timing setup in it. The thing that got me thinking about it was we have a 2002 grand cherokee in the shop that the customer could never get to start, he got it for a song and the p.o. could never get it to run after the install of a new engine. After comparing a know good cam/crank waveform we noticed ours looked nothing like what it should. Figured out the p.o. had put in a 2008 engine that used a different tonewheel on the cam and crank. We put the proper tonewheel on the cam and that waveform went right to what it should be, tjhe new owner ran out of cash for us to pull the motor and finish the crank repair and had it towed out.

Hitting the crank was the reason I put power windows in

clean and tighten battery terminals

You have fuel, you have spark, you have injector pulse, so compression is really the last thing to check. But since you are grabbing at straws you may check the exhaust backpressure, if the cat got completely clogged it will keep it from running. (have only seen that once). pop out the O2 sensor and see if it will start and idle.

it is a crimp connector that attaches the a/c rubber hose to the metal line, not really serviceable.

did you make sure the rocker arms are moving up and down while someone cranks it?

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check for injector pulse with a noid light, also if it feels like it turns over faster than normal pull the oil cap while someone cranks the engine and make sure your valves are moving and you didn't break the timing chain

Change the thermostat, if you are under 190 on your temp gauge then it is opening way too early or stuck open

leave the map plugged in at all costs, check your intake bolts for tightness, if you have a bottle of propane hook a hose to it and spray it along the places that can leak vacuum like hose, where the intake bolts to the etc, etc and see if the idle changes. If it changes where you spray the propane you found your leak. A good place to start is manifold and egr valve

Ball joints creak when they dry out

yep

spend your cash at maaco and leave the rest alone :jump:

pressure should be 31 lbs at idle and 39 at idle with the vacuum line off the regulator and it should hold pressure when you shut the engine off