cody4359

i knew what i was doin lol, free lowering kit when i heated them :yes: . i was going for bumpstops, not ride quality. also i was 18 so i had no $$ and didnt care about ride. lower spring=firmer ride, weather its a heated coils, cut coils, or the proper lowering coils they won't ride factory like.

are you goin to keep the abs/pump? i need to make a bracket to mount it infront of the booster, havent thought about it much and havent looked either.

hack it up and toss in garbage can. was it a buck? if so keep the rack so next chrismas you can dress up your mj as rudolf

hmm dunno what to tell ya then :dunno: if its coming from the front and its a 2wd wheel bearings would be my guess, but it only does it when its engaged in gear.. throwout bearing or piolot bearing???? thatd should be a fairly cheap and easy fix. kinda hard to tell without tearing into it. rarely but sumtimes you can talk to a tech at the dealership and theyll partly help diaganose it

maybe try taking the front driveshaft out and thatll tell you if its your front u joints or not..... but then again not like your engaged in 4wd when ur cruising. worth a try since its free

could be a different noise all together but in my zj theres a rubbing/grinding noise occasionally. its the wheel hub bearing, sealed unit so i can't grease it, but its dryer than dog poop. bearings need lube or theyll be noisey and fail, and the clunk is a sign of bad u join/cv joint. drive it til it breaks, then ull know for sure what it was :yes:

here ya go :) go get em!! http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44558

ahh gotcha, i was thinkin CADB was kinda long

[quote="TerraWombat" I will send the SRT-8 police to your house to confiscate it from you. I won't allow you to have one if you're going to put 24's on it. IMO the 20's don't fill thoes big wheel wells enough, and anyways I'm not goin to go into debt for a toy, gotta pay my house off first and get my mj up to par. do the really have srt8 police????? :help: :rotfl2:

how bad is the rubbing sound? increase with speed, intermitted,? have you drained your tranny to see if theres metal shavings inside? noise coming from front or rear?

the long math is: 2011-1988=23, 23+31=54, buy the way I'm 24

id love a srt8 grand cherokee, lower it with bags, 22's-24's, do some power upgrages and go get in trouble with it. also an old FSJ bobbed and on 38-40s mj with 6-8" lift, 33-35 pitbull rockers, rubicon 6sp with the rubi crawler with selectable lockers front and rear also the jeep hurricane concept would be fun

ok i have the 4 door panel and door wiring, just the mj didnt have pwr anything. so your sayin i can get the pwr stuff from any year mj/xj (wiring to fues block)?

i put 97+ doors on my mj and need the wiring that connects to the doors. i have the 4 door interior but would prefer the 2 door wiring then ill just get a 2 door door panel.

when i think CAD i think control arm drop

ya darren your not to far away but that drive stinks lol just drove to portland twice the last 2 weeks and seems like it takes forever..(i know woodland is a lil b4 portland) I'm use to driving to anacortes and bellingham, more to see so it goes by faster. ive seen a few threads with you tryin to sell your truck, u still have it or did you get sumthin else?

HOLY RUST BUCKET!!! like you said tho it makes good practice and is a bit fun. what guage metal did you use for the frame? and a few of you pics need a space between the http. looking good so far and for $50 your only out a tank a gas. I'm diggin thoes spoked wheels

i like hawk pads, low dust improved braking

i agree, sweet rig. the stance is great. with 5.5" lift and 33s how bad does it rub offroad? or did you make longer bumpstops?

i forgot about that. theres a thin metal bracket thats spot welded in 4 places i think. it holds a plate thats threaded. the first door i did i cut a section of the inner cab out with a cutoff wheel so i could see and used a chisel to bend the tab back and forth until it broke off. then on the other door i saved some time and just reached behind and broke it off. i imagine you could take a small drill bit to the spot welds too.

well I'm cody and ill be tossin me $.02 (stupid computer doesnt have the cent sign) around here. i work industrial construction as a apprentice millwright outta local 204, almost journeyed out. anyways hello to all and i look forward to passin time on here :waving: Image Not Found Image Not Found

oh ya i understand lol but maybe compare prices, the alabama head is gusseted where the stock one crack and i think they come with some of the valvetrain, just me but id pay an extra 50 to 100 for a quality part for sumthing important. and you could use the old wiring harness just find and swap out the blinker and parking light connectors. itd be a little work but either way you have to mess with wiring

i got a cheap 97+ header on ebay for $40 composite plastic or sumthin. then i got a real one, like $220 with lights ect. they both fit nearly the same but the ebay one didnt have the threaded inserts for the grill. they were either square or round i forget but they were diff then my mj inserts. havent checked the 97+ to see if they just changed design of the inserts. cowls hoods are badass but being a penny pincher i can't justify pain $400-500 for a darn hood. ive seen a few places that alabama cylinder head makes really food heads, theyre $500 tho. you get what you pay for somtimes. by the way thats a cool name you have :yes:

the dents will come back with use :yes: looks good. are thoes wheels m/t classic? why will you be cuttin the fenders? probly a dumb question but does it rub with the 32s or will you be putting bigger tires on? hope youll be making a cool bumper, not some of the cobbled up pieces of scrap ive seen on a few rigs :ack:

dunno but i just cleaned everything up real good, sprayed with cheap belliner and cut a pool noodle to fit between the fender/unibody to keep my door clean. can't get much cheaper than that