cody4359

passanger side rocker

without the 33" tires asked the guy what the $$ would be, $1000 went and test drove it, during the test drive the slave cylinder bled out and had to put fluid in it, felt really guttless for a 4.0 with stock tires, saggy headliner, dsah light don't work as well as blinkers, numerouse cracks in windshield, horrible brakes. i didnt feal like bartering and didnt have a trailer to tow it home so i left it. didnt pull the carpet but the underside was rust free. http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/2252556942.html

looks good except having to remove the control arms when i do tranny services, and yes its a 4 link but only the 4 bolts for the crossmeber are holding it on, so strength wise it looks the same as the clayton minus the removeable center section and an extra $1500 (yes i understand it comes with all the extras and could probably be purchased cheaper as just brackets) and rocky-road has DBs with gussets/braces behind them for $215

the surface rust looks like its only from where the paint had been chipped off. i might just get it for a backup or decoration

http://claytonoffroad.com/product_info. ... cts_id/110 how about you consider something that's not garbage. because if you read the very first post in this topic you would of realized that i don't want a radius arm setup, or 3 link.

ive been been trying to find somewhere that will just let me buy the brackets. summit racing so far is the only place that advertises the DBs/arms and they want $800 ive emailed jeepspeed and somewhere else lastnight but still no reply. anyone have any leads on just the brackets?

outside eatonville,wa my ex-gfs puppy, this little guy had a huge personality lol goldendale,wa back in eatonville

a little late to be posting this up, but I'm my opnion i wouldnt run DBs without the brace. some say its un-nessary but id rather be safe than sorry. the point of building your rig is to make it better and stronger, not taller and weaker http://www.rocky-road.com/xjcad.html

they look like the rustys flares http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.m ... _Code=BODY

ya i aim the :thwak: twoards me. i just went out and looked an the rocky-road DBs on my xj and they are similar to the skyjacker except only $220 and 2 pieces. ive been looking for a place to get only the SJ DBs but their still asking $800 for the DBs/arms, it just looked better built than my rocky road ones. i wasnt too happy with the fitment of my rockyroad DBs but i may just use them.

thanks. i was browsing CL and found one for $50. don't need one but if it was a steal i was goin to get it

hmmmm...... that was helpful :thwak:

is anybody running the skyjacker subframe? i saw a mj with it last week, and didnt think to ask how he liked it. also he had a shop install it and i don't know how much work or what would have to be done to make it work on a mj seeing as its an xj kit. ive read that their heim joints wear out, but I'm not concerned with that. the thing i like about this lift is its a 4 link, not a radius arm, and the center section bolts in so tranny service is still easy. I'm not a rock crawler so huge flex isnt what i want, just mud and trails with alot of hyw driving and 4 mounting locations on the frame seems alot stronger than 2 as with a radius, and I'm not interested in a 3 link. http://www.skyjacker.com/product.php?ProdID=8285

coming along nice and quick :wrench:

whats a decent price for a mj tailgate thats free of exterior dents but worn paint/slight surface rust?

cool, thanks guys edit: thanks terrawombat for the detailed pwr distribution explanation :thumbsup:

is the wiring any easier on pre 96, doesnt have such an integrated window wiring into the rest of the harness? i was expecting a pwr wire into the fuse block going to the driver side switch, then the passanger wires running from the driver side to passanger side. now that was probably a pipe dream but seemed simple enough to work

what a PITA. thats a negative on the 97 interior, 89 mj, with 96 xj 4.0 wiring harness. ive read a little about doing this wiring and about all of the articles said something about the cross harness, jp magazine had an article sayin they had it mostly working with homemade wiring, but it probably needed relays or somthing. I'm terrible at reading wiring diagrams so i may just have to search for manual window/door panels if its goin to be so complicated edit: i was under the impression i could grab the pwr window/lock harness from any year xj, are pre 97 and different than post 97??

ya a pic wouldnt hurt. by chance did you lable driver/passanger/front/rear?

one of these days I'm going to search the wrecking yard for my door upgrade wiring (97+ eletric windows/mirrors/locks). i have a few question, the harness I'm looking for, does anybody know if its on the upper side of the dash, or underneath? is it just wiring or is there relays that i will need? i have a fealing that i will have to tear the dash out of the donor to get what i want, and it will be more clear then but I'm just trying to figure out what I'm looking for looks like. does anybody have a picture of the cross harness pulled out? thanks

4.0 with aw4, then get a cheap commuter car for mpg.

if it was a diesel id say keep it lol have you used the pacesetter header before? i bout a banks torque tube, spendy but lifetime warranty. thinking i coulda been just as happy with a cheaper one tho.

are your putting the same exhaust stack in the bed??? :peek:

the 30-34 mpg results werent in his mj

now mr brando, i wasnt implying that you were lying. just hard to believe that 7 mpg gain could be had with a warm air intake, and with a spectre filter at that. but if your getting repeating numbers it must work, or you constantly do your math wrong :hmm: :D either way :chillin: