lostissues

I have yet to finish it, like a lot of my projects its about 50 percent done. :shake:

I have that exact same overhead, I got it at a JY for 10 bucks. I plan on putting a remote face plate for a stereo.

good another one for reference, I just picked up a 98 Cherokee to hopefully do the swap with.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/55208_9010.htm

shocks are pretty much junk now. been bottomed out a lot and one has a large dent on the side. the mounts are further back on the uniframe, moving them back more would be to much of an angle. and I cannot go much lower on the "frame". I could move the bottom shock mounts to the bottom of the axle tube but it would still fully extend at full droop.

vacuum canister http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/89-xj-f ... post417764

I need longer shocks in the rear of my truck. I am SOA with a 6in lift up front. I had RC (not 2.2 the older ones) shocks in the rear. when the shop put in my rear 44 they didn't do anything with the shock mounting position so it had about 1in of down travel before the shock bottomed out. so finally got around to moving the top shock mount to the rear of the axle to give it better travel. set it so that at ride height it was half extended. well fast forward to last weekend wheeling, the shocks reached their limits when the axle was at full droop, to they tore the top shock mounts right out. so I am looking for longer travel shocks but hoping to not break the bank. suggestions? Thanks.

quick search looks like the first 2 may be not as bad as I thought. they are made of LLDPE (Linear low-density polyethylene) (thanks wiki) which is similar to the material the "real" snorkels are made of. the fiberglass would most likely not hold up to a hit as well as this stuff and could crack compromising the waterproof aspect of the snorkel which would mean dead engine.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-XJ- ... 500wt_1182 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JEEP-XJ- ... 860wt_1166 these are fiberglass molds made from safari snorkels, you can see that they had to blur out the "safari" http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-Che ... 235wt_1164

I agree, I just have no idea if you can even bend 3 inch tubing like that.

the bushwhackers mount and go up to the body line above the wheel opening, the ARB has a small indent in the bottom to allow it to go over that body line. it looks like you can make them work together but you have to trim the bushwhackers. in my opinion thought the airflow looks a ton better. and the ARB may fit with trimmed fenders, I was thinking about mine but I trimmed a lot off so a little cutting would probably be fine. ARB: Bushwhackers: Bushwhackers and airflow:

try to avoid the Chinese ones. I have heard they are poor build quality/poor materials. I know that the ARB will not fit with bushwhackers and probably if you have trimmed your wheel wells. I cannot bring myself to pay 300+ for a snorkel, but If I found a use airflow for the right price I would jump on it. I totally agree that most of the PVC, dryer vent, cheap crap you see a lot of people do looks dumb. but I have found one guy that made a very nice one and I plan on using his as a starting point for me to make one. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f177/bes ... ost8190125

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Front-St ... 737wt_1195 those the ones your talking about?

no real help on how to fix your problem. but you should never replace fuses with something bigger. the reason you switch burned up now is because you put in a bigger fuse and allowed the current to flow through the switch and burn it up. prior to the fuse swap when the circuit got overloaded it would blow the fuse to protect the other parts of the circuit (switch/wires).

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/dash-removal-35444/ :cheers:

did the same, but got an auto dimming mirror, and I have and auto dimming with compass and temp but no lights that I may throw in my subi

sony = not stock paper crap cone = stock

well I needed the 4wd one, I ordered a 1209 national parts seal, but www.rockauto.com has them listed as for the ax5. most other sites I looked for information on said it was part number 19601 and a Timken seal part number 710319. I ended up pulling the old seal out and taking it down to the auto parts store with me and with a visual comparison it looked like the 1209 was the same size as the one I pulled. I put it in this afternoon and it seamed to install fine. so we will see how it will hold up. Thanks for the info Pete, I will bookmark that page for future reference.

looking to see if anyone knows the part number of this seal, I believe I have the ax5 seal on order at a local auto parts store (can't remember what part number I gave them) but I'm looking for the correct one so that I have that number on hand. Thanks. 87 4.0 Ba-10 np231. I know that I should just swap out the puke goat but I just want to get it going so I can do some wheeling this year instead of just looking at the damn sitting there all the time.

http://www.rcplanet.com/Axial_1_10_SCX10_p/axi90016.htm http://www.rcplanet.com/Pro_Line_Jeep_C ... 333300.htm may be able to find them cheaper by looking around. regular bed http://prolineracing.com/bodies/jeep-co ... lear-body/

ELABORATE! please

Dammit, I really do need to paint my truck, I have been wanting to paint it desert tan for a few years now, I just want to do a few things like bob the bed first. I will be going up in the fall. and I did not see any zebra Saturn.

you mean you have an 88 MJ? lots of parts are interchangeable, some require a little creativity to make it work but you can. the doors should be the same size. you may just have to keep messing with the shims.

got the video, it doesn't show your buddies truck though HiVUdtaEmCM

he was fine, it was a relatively slow roll over, he saw it coming and shut everything off. so your buddy was in the dodge? please be sure to thank him for being able to stop. had he not been able to it could have been a lot worse. :bowdown: my sister posted the video she took of it on her Facebook page but I cannot seam to pull it off to put it on youtube