treklight

Nice LED's. Is that hard to do? I would definitely like a how to for that one.

I had a couple hours, so I read through that build. He modified XJ stiffeners which did look like a huge PITA. I guess I will start looking at fabbing out some plates and going that route. Has to be better than nothing. Yes that build thread is :drool: That was some serious coin he dropped.

Thanks Eliminator, That's exactly what I wanted to know. So the XJ stiffys are not worth the time and effort to modify? Is there anyone that makes MJ specific stiffeners? Is plating good enough? I might be able to mock up some cardboard templates and have them cut with some rosettes and stitch weld them on. I know its not as strong as something with a bend in it, I am just too tool poor to make bends that contour to the frame. :dunno:

Yeah, I saw a build thread on here, where you have to saw off the tab that slides on the inner frame and then weld them to the stiffies. Thanks for the input, forgot that I would need to do that.

Ok, I ordered my Rock Krawler 3 link X Factor and I was looking at getting some input on the difficulty of modifying a TnT or Ruff Stuff etc. frame stiffener to fit the Manche. I really don't have any fabricating skills, just a couple of friends who are expert welders. I know how to use a grinder, and could get the plating cut where our body supports are etc., just wanted to see what everyone else has done. Pictures would be a big plus. For sure I am putting on the Liquid Iron Industries in the front of the Uniframe. I also would like to weld my tabs for the lower control arm mounts onto the frame plating/stiffeners. Looking to draw upon the wealth of knowledge you all have. :bowdown:

Looking good. I can't wait to be doing this swap soon! How many hours would you say you have to get it to this point? Good Luck and keep us posted.

I would like to see your console, once you have it done. Its not the quickest project to complete out there. I would like to see how you incorporate the stereo face, that would be sweet!

My headliner was substantially heavier than stock, however, with all the fiberglass and added resin it was very solid. I found that with the way the headliner is held in place, the weight was a non issue. I have had 0 issues with the added weight. I would venture my headliner with console was around 8 pounds. Did you find your console yet?

Half your day is spent coming up with validating reasons to give your wife why you really needed that part.

I had it covered in an OEM headliner material. I am not sure of the specific brand or color. I went slightly darker than original. Be careful as you can with your headliner. Don't take short cuts, remove all the trim pieces including the b-pillar trim around the seatbelts. I also applied resin on the top of the headliner as well to lock the headliner fibers as well. One thing I forgot to mention was to go over the headliner with some slightly rough sandpaper for better adhesion of the headliner glue. Good Luck! Can't wait to watch your project develop :cheers:

Thanks RockMJ! To attach the console I used a piece of thin flat aluminum. I think it was 1" by 1/8". Since I fiberglassed the headboard it is rigid enough to hold the weight of the console. I cut the aluminum to about 8 inches in length. the aluminum straddles the console on top of the headliner. There are a couple of screw holes on the inside of the sunglass door. I drilled these two opposing holes through the headboard and through the aluminum. Then put your proper length bolt and nut. Be careful not to overtighten, underneath the fiberglass is foam. I suppose I could have used washers in place of the aluminum strap, but I used the aluminum as a way to provide weight distribution across the headliner. It worked fantastic. There is one screw in the front of the console that goes into the sheet metal that the visors screw into. As far as tips go, this was my first time ever working with this stuff and the upholsterer asked if I would take side work, so take your time, be methodical and you can get good results. Here are main pointers. 1. Set up a big enough space to work in. 2. Work clean, you will get such better results. 3. Don't just goop on the fiberglass resin, it is very labor intensive to sand it down. 4. Use breather mask 5. Take your time, take your time, take your time 6. Be careful when drilling anywhere near the outer skin sheet metal. If your drill bit grabs it will take you right through, leaving a nice hole. 7. Run lots of wires if you want to add switches etc. I pulled off of the interior side lights to operate the dome light and vanity mirrors. 8. Have fun and have your headliner professionally done, especially if you're adding contour. Good Luck, I hope you're starting with a console in better shape than mine was. You can PM me if you need any assistance along the way.

You're more scared of whats under your carpet than you are the boogey man.

Jeep sold all the tooling and dyes to a China company that now makes a knock off called the 2500. Of course you all knew that. Why don't they just buy them back, make some minor styling mods and remake the comanche nearly as it was, just meet all the impact, safety, and mileage(fiat diesel anyone?) requirements of our lovely government? Seems like we could be building it in a couple years? Isn't retro styling the "in" thing right now?

I read the Dakota replacement is going to be uni body similar to Honda Ridgeline. I think the concept is the Dodge Rampage? What a cluster! :shake:

Welcome. Nice grill and black interior. Winning! :drool: