Bacon

amen brother :bowdown:

um, do you mean an MJ at the junkyard? cuz there is no such thing as an XJ long bed.

oh yeah, and any exposed (bare) metal will begin to oxidize -read: rust- within 24 hours simply due to the moisture in the air. at least here in eastern canada that's the way it is. i'm guessing in texas it might be a different story.

rust has nothing to do with temperature, and everything to do with salt and moisture. salt on the roads- here in the northeast, our roads are sanded/salted in the winter hence the older vehicles in this area of the continent are usually much more rusty than in say alberta, where it gets colder during the winter, but they don't use salt, they only sand the roads. salt in the water- any vehicle which has been used to tow a boat/jetski and has backed into the ocean (salt water) doing so will be rusty from being dipped in a salt bath constantly. even vehicles which are only a few years old will deteriorate rapidly if they have been used like this. moisture- when moisture gets trapped, say inside the boxed in frame rails of our comanches, it will cause rust. rust from the inside-the worst kind. by the time you see it, it's too late, the whole area is fubared. as for the comanches being more prone to frame cracking...well, the "frame" on our trucks is (correct me if i'm wrong here) double stamped sheetmetal. which while relatively strong (mostly because it is boxed) is also very thin. this means the rust has less metal to eat through before it causes catastrophic damages. mine cracked above the front hanger on the passenger side leaf spring. i was on a trail when i compressed that side flexing, and when i got home, i found my frame had cracked and compressed on itself about 3/4". not fun to try and spread back out without breaking it more before welding. if your truck is dirty, the cracks will be harder to see, if it is covered with some sort of undercoating, they will be harder to see. basically if you don't see bare metal (or at least paint), they'll be harder to see. hell, if you have a bunch of scaley rust, it might be hard to see the cracks. clean under your truck, get a good light, lie underneath and have a look. you shouldn't need to put in on a lift- you'll still see the same thing, the only difference will be whether your lying on your back looking straight ahead, or standing up, looking up. if you find any cracks, please fix before driving, safety first. 8)

first thing first: i am ungodly jealous of you guys down south and your rust free jeeps. here in the northeast jeeps start rusting at the friggin dealership. after seeing your truck, i'm gonna go out to the garage and slap my manche for letting itself go. second, with TJ flares, you could fit 35's now :brows: i bet with TJ flares you could fit 33's at the stock height. i have TJ flares, and am currently sitting at about 6" of lift and i bet i could fit 37's. mind you, if my manche was as clean and rust free as yours, i'd kick guys like me in the shins just for suggesting cutting the fenders. anyway, nice find man. u suck. :D

hehehe, i was late for work yesterday cuz i had to read the article before leaving. very nice MJ, one of the cleanest builds i've ever seen. mind you, we could all have beautifully modified MJs if we all had 17G and a wharehouse full of custom parts now couldn't we?

i'm going to buy a set of u-bolts tomorrow so i can finally put the 8.8 under the manche. i need to know dimensions. the tube diameter is 3.25" correct? that's what i measure anyway. what size stock to i need? meaning how thick is the bolt itself supposed to be? for those of you who have an 8.8 spring over with no blocks, what dimensions did you get? 3.25" tube, 1" for spring perch, 1.5" for leaf pack, .5" for spring plate, so 6.25" total (ish). 8" long u-bolt should be good right?

does anybody have the wiring diagram for the headlight circuit on a 91 MJ? i have a weird "sometimes they work, sometimes they don't" thing going on with my headlights. it's either a short somewhere, or a bad ground, but i don't know where the grounds are, or which wires underneath the dash or hood belong to the headlights. actually, now that I think of it, it might be in any of the lighting circutry. if anybody has these diagrams, can you please email them to me @ cstfullarton@hotmail.com? thanks in advance.

3rd year university. on my way to work when the first plane hit. didn't know about till i got to work. i worked in a pub on campus. we watched the coverage on the big screen the whole day. lights up, no music, just the tv. very surreal. i remember watching the second plane hit thinking "did that just happen?!?!?!?!?" seemed like a bad dream that just wouldn't end. and i'm canadian :Canadaflag: . i'm a police officer now (RCMP) and know what it means -and what's going throught your head- to be running toward the danger when everybody else is going the other way. nothing but respect for the men and women who died trying to save the lives of others that day.

sounds like a vacuum leak to me. check all vacuum lines for cracks or slices. replace any and all that look suspect.

excellent plan

Eagle-my bad. "friend" can mean a lot of things. you know, rather than saying "this guy that my sister once dated four years ago for about a month and a half" or "a guy who played a couple games on my ball team last summer", you say "friend" cuz it's just plain shorter. after reading my post, i realize i might have sounded a bit assholish in my response, but i didn't mean to. i do know that the dealership where i live are con artists ($450 for a radiator!?!?!?! :eek: ) i will replace everything with used parts until i rape and pillage every old comanche and cherokee i can find before i ever go to the dealership for anything. sure, you never know how long used parts are gonna last, but like you said, that's why they're cheaper. it doens't mean they're no good. it just means they may be good for a shorter period of time than a new part.

I wouldn't count on a junkyard ballast resistor. It could fail tomorrow. I was advised years ago by a friend who was a Jeep service manager that the ballast resistor is a highly unreliable part. Chrysler used to use them in their ignition systems and Mopar mechanics always carried a spare in the gove box. I always carry a spare in my Jeeps. (Although it is possible to bypass it by just jumpering the wires.) and i wouldn't trust a service manager telling me used parts are junk. of course he'd say that. he's the service manager. he wants ppl to come to the dealership for everything so they can get raped on prices for parts and labour. i will now carry that piece of wire with me in the glove box. if the same thing happens again, i can use the wire to get me to the parts store. oldjeep-my guess? somebody has either by-passed that resistor and connected the two wires together permanently, or they've used a different resistor (from an electronics store) and connected them that way. just a thought. you'd have to find the two wires coming out of the wiring harness and find out where they go.

Thank god for the internet. my manche died on me in my buddy's yard on saturday. i had no friggin clue why. it would start, but would not stay running. checked a bunch of things, got out the wiring diagrams. changed the tps. that didn't work. was kinda discouraged (thought my fuel pump died). then i remembered seeing a post on here (prolly this one) about somebody having a similar issue. i searched, i found, i read. i then disconnected the two wires leading to the ballast and connected them with a short piece of wire. the truck fired up and stayed running. i disconnected the wire, and the truck died. beautiful! found the source of the problem. a quick trip to the boneyard, one used ballast later, problem solved. thanks for the info guys.

i had similar issues going on a while back. the internal regulator in the pcm was fubared and all sorts of weird things were happening, including my lights turning off out of nowhere(not fun late at night with no street lights on a twisty country road) i replaced my puter, and everything is better now. well, regarding this issue anyway.

how much longer is the 95 dak line? i'm about to go from 3" to about 5" or 6"(soa 8.8 w/2wd leaves). will the 95 dak line be long enough?

Intended, or un-intended, excellent pun!! :cheers:

lol, i figured either you thought i was gonna try to put 8.8 discs on the 35 or it was a dig because you somehow knew how long the 8.8 has been sitting in the garage waiting to go under. as in "the brakes won't do you any good on the axle sitting on the floor" :cheers:

i'm not sure who wrote this, but i want to know how they got into my house to watch my dog and cat for inspiration. i know the cat thinks the dog is retarded. :D

what? i already have an 8.8. it has drums, i'm going to put 8.8 discs on the 8.8 i have to have discs all four corners. i'm not putting the discs on my 35. i'm just wondering about the prop valve.....

i'm about to put a 8.8 out of a 94 explorer (at least that's what i was told it is) under the rear of my MJ. it currently has drums. i have 35's and want discs for better stopping power. i found a 96 crown vic in a JY nearby with discs i need. my question is this: will my MJ prop valve work with discs in the rear? or will it @#$% it all up?

so, what'd you end up with for shocks front and rear?

ok, where's the little smiley thing for choking? 7 grand for an MJ?!?!?! holy $#!&. is there gold in the frames on some of these things? the only way you're gonna get 7 grand is if you have 15 grand worth of mods/parts. yikes. even 2 grand for an '86 4 cyl 1/4 ton seems like a windfall to me.

Hi, my name is Justin, and I'm a recovering ricer. :roll: before i bought my first YJ, i had a 240sx (still my favourite car, i'd like to have another just for cruisin around in). anywho, when i had my 240 for sale, this kid (17,18?) and his two buddies come lookin at it. they want to know "how fast does it go?" "well, it cuts out at about 195km/h". they ask why i'm selling it. i point to my 87 YJ with 33" boggers on it (4.2 carbed, 3.07's), "new toy" i say. "how fast does that go?" they say. huh? u kidding? how fast? "a solid 100km/h with a good run downhill and a strong tailwind" seriously. "you, backhand your buddy for asking a stupid question will you?" ok, i didn't say that last part, but i was thinking it. confession: i've fallen off the wagon. i bought an 03 Mazdaspeed Protege last year. nothing says trying to re-live my teenage years like a turbocharger, spicy orange paint (that's the name Mazda has for the colour-spicy orange :nuts: ), and a big spoiler blocking most of the rear view (factory piece, i usually make fun of ppl with those) ZOOM ZOOM BABY!

Damnit, evertime i look under mine, i still see a D35 there. what kind of magic potion did you use? er wait, 3years huh? ok, so i've had mine for a little over a year now, so maybe if i wait 2 more years, i'll have a D44. lol, i don't know you, so i won't call you an @$$-pirate or anything, but if we were buddies, i'd make fun of you relentlessly. i hope your buddy does. oh, and some guys just have all the luck.....