llhat

not sure if this thread will help, but gives on advice. https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/aw4-troubleshooting.4244314/ page 23 of this pdf file may be or assistance location in the adapter housing to transfer case (much later years it is on the output of the transfer case) there's also test procedure (but i think this publication is actually for later vehicles) https://cdn.xjjeeps.com/pdf/en-us/aw4-transmission-service-information.pdf

That internal crud does not bode well for low voltage current and detecting small variations... guess someone liked washing their engine a lot?

found a 100 pack of aluminum ones on the evil bay for just a few bux, were in mailbox today. think my 94 GGC with 5.2 had a 'nylon' sealing washer.

don't confuse fusible links with a fuse, there's not a fuse "in" a fusible link. the fusible link has a design where it fails at a certain load (amperage), this is done by carefully engineering the wire itself. replacement fusible link wire should be available at local NAPA or other FLAPS, but nothing entirely wrong with new regular wire and a fuse block.. choose your poison... probably a good idea to consult the FSM (electrical) to see what each one controls,, they are for different circuits.

no, in 'our' investigation did not test speed sensor, i think mainly from the prospective in my situation, the vehicle tried to start movement in high gear, at that point in the logic, the vehicle is stationary and there would be no input from sensor. this would lead one to believe the speed sensor would trigger a 'shift', not a default solenoid application of the first gear solenoid and subsequent signals to S2 and S3. yeah, being able to sort out the TCU at board level would help the 'hobby' of these vehicles.

in my instance, the nss would allow starting in P and N, prohibit in other ranges, and did not have reverse lights... and after i replaced the NSS, had reverse lights and starting, but still would try to move in 'high gear'... but when i looked a the manual's wiring diagram (after Ohm's advice and him saying probably TCU), noted there is an input to the TCU from the NSS providing a signal for D position. So there's the "possibility" this connection in the NSS is not sending that small voltage signal telling the TCU "I'm in drive, take over" Yes, know frustrating and been there... As I just do not know the testing at board level for the TCU, there's still that possibility of a defective unit.. from the assumed ebay seller.

understood, Cup is the 'race' that is in the hub on each end The bearing itself is composed of the cup, and..... Roller is the cylindrical bearing Cage is over the rollers and retains them cone goes over the spindle, rollers ride on it. You cannot see the cone without breaking the cage and removing the rollers, don't do this unless you have a new bearing... but you can do a post-mortem on the assembly The rollers can have bad spots, but you may be able to see them when cleaned cup same way, visible wear any wear (spalling, fretting, pitting, etc) can make the bearing roar.

just following up to see if this is sorted.... one can examine the outer cup surface and the rollers visually, but the issue could be on the cone where the rollers contact... not much way to examine that surface without destroying the cage there's still the possibility of a bad bearing if there's no improvement on the noise..

with the fuse removed, the solenoids are null and void, the shifter changes the manual valve to direct flow directing internal fluid flow, otherwise the solenoids fire to perform the shift. you pull the lever down to 1-2 and with a good tcu it will shift to 2 on its own, otherwise, it will stay in first gear. agree about 'someone' to get to board level on that box for testing and repair, there is a thread on here about someone replacing a resistor on board. he reported most failures have been solder joint failures probably as an effect of age and heat. I found a seller on evay that stated 'rebuilt' tcu, but they were not inexpensive at all... then there's the complete alteration to do toggle switch application of power to the solenoids to manually switch, getting overdrive and converter lockup... but one has to remember to unlock the converter at stoplights.. there's writeups on this process also... IIRC it bypasses the TCU. @Ohm really helped me with tracing out the connectors, etc.. it is frustrating trying to 'fix' but once it is........... betta

made the decision.. a LOT of factors involved... my use and the mud terrains just did not seem like the best fit... was offered a couple of off-brands in 30/ 950 and 235 and if there weren't some issues with the retaining screw on the hub cover, may have gone on with this off-brand, don't even remember name.. option given for the next day... and made decision.. Falken Rubitrek 235's Looks good, rides good, noise lowered... and no bumping, etc in steering... those 30 x950 goodyear gsa times had given up the ghost.. cupping, dry rot, and my records showed they were installed in 2003, and seems tire dated 2003 also... and <25k miles... it was time.

is it possible the evay TCU was also defective... that was my concern also with any purchase there. in my quest, i "knew" my NSS was not proper, as there were no reverse lights. I bought a new one on evay (taiwan mfg) and it worked. Your situation was different than mine, You stating 'starts off great in D, no shift' and My situation was D was a high gear start "and" no shifts. so sounds like if you are starting off with D and D is giving gear ONE, either logic in TCU (through resistors, etc) or a Solenoid problem inside the transmission Have you checked resistance on the the solenoids? it 'can' be done at the connector under hood near transmission dipstick, or at the TCU connector... (see my older thread with advice from Ohm... i do see where you state manual shifting is possible, so on the electronic side is the path.

you indicated reassembly, did you remove both bearings and clean and examine the rollers and races? if your noise remains and you did not do this, will probably continue to make noise also follow that posted above on seating, In all my years never used a torque wrench...

i'd give a big thumbs UP and proceed as normal!!! U get the seal out??

thanks for this, soon to replace tires on stock height 1989, when i obtained it @ 72k, it had 235 BFG all terrian C loads on an aftermarket 'centerline' looking wheel, @ 140k replaced with take-offs 30 x9.5 GSA goodyears with a 'accessory' jeep wheel polished, but seemed to have deeper backspacing than those others on the back i would hear a 'click click' st times from a rub on emergency brake cable, and on front lower control arms at times. originally had steel wheels. Now debating on dropping back to LT235 or staying around the 30 x 9.5 (my 'tire guy' has some mud terrrains he took off of his scout... will decide next week.) it now wants to drop out of OD 'quickly' at speed (3.54 gears)... but pre 2000 when driving it a LOT it would get up to 23mpg.

on most of the stuff i worked on in the past, took a drift and from the outside of the hub, put the drift on the inner bearing and gave it a whack or two the seal and bearing should drop out... If you want to pry, do it at "A" , B is the seal lip, it's gonna be trash anyway and if I 'know' i have the replacement I'll go in the opening with a seal removal tool and pry er out, even a big screwdriver will work as a lever the threads... hmm, yea a die may work, but you could also take a triangular 'swiss' file and restore the 'vee'... but the outer diameter of the thread has already suffered. this bearing nut is not torqued to an extreme amount, and the cotter pin will keep if from loosening from rotation, but there is the risk of the nut letting go linearly and no longer retain the hub... sort of depends on how the nut interacts with the root of the thread on the spindle. how much risk... I won't say.... but them are some boogered threads.

oops, thought he was measuring pads... rotor lip bit more difficult... but a regular anvil micrometer will bridge the lip... but if no divider style measuring caliper, then probably no micrometer either. the jaws on the vernier may be relieved near the beam.. that may bridge the ridge

guess talking about an outer 'lip' on the edge of the pad.... in a small section take a file and knock the lip off then your measuring caliper's flat surface can access the flat part of the pad.

noted the comment on bearings seizing on the spindle.... seeing in your sig yours is 2wd, so there is a conventional spindle (IIRC) and not a bearing pack. so you could pull the hub and check the bearings by removal of caliper and the castle nut under the spindle cap. the 4wd are a press fit bearing pack and most do not have the press or adapters for the press to remove the bearings without damage to them. 'simpler' to replace the bearing pack in most cases. these are usually sealed bearings. on 2wd should be 'regular' tapered roller bearings and their matching cup, look for 'fretting' of the rollers and in the surface of the cup. bearings probably not too expensive but try to look for top shelf quality bearings and get the seals while at FLAPs, as well as good bearing grease. good luck.

ok, another thought, I believe the is a 'tip' on upgrading the ground wire on the TPS wire bundle.... maybe search will find it. otherwise ground you multimeter negative, then probe ( from memory "A" wire on connector for the voltage with your multimeter positive, I'd think if you get the reference voltage, then the ground circuit in that bundle could be the issue. at one point I believe the 88 electrical manual was posted here as a PDF file, you may can find the pin out for first, the supply wire on the C101 connector (that 'may' be the source of issue during that procedure) then trace back to the ECU connector. I am unsure just who posted that link to the manual, but 1988 was last year for C101 connector.

? did it run after the c101 delete? How well or how bad? one would think with that low voltage, the ecu would not 'respond'.... Possibly a bad back probe connection... I ran into this with testing the transmission solenoids for resistance at the connector... You're probably going to need the complete wiring data to trace to the pin-out on the ECU connector or re-test at the TPS connector by back probing ...with the connector still connected to CPS...

yeah, i had to "buck it up" too but it sure is nice not manually shifting this auto transmission.... not sure what cost would be for a bench technician to test the TCU board components, some report age on solder joints is an issue, as well as failed transistor/resistors or other board level components. the speed sensor is also a 'testable' part...

think that may be the key there... though some of the tests we ran on wiring helped narrow it down I did have a problem with NSS, but replacement only got me back up lights in reverse there's some TCU on evay, but many are not sure "IF" they work... I got lucky on one source there. If you find a good source, share "after" you are pleased. it may not be a bad idea to have a spare there's a thread here about one fellow that found a bad resistor in his TCU and replaced it.

Sorta on the subject.. for the female side of the belt, who offers the sleeve that stiffens this side? is there a better alternative? (gray color)

with the fuse pulled you 'should' have been able to manually shift the transmission to 1, then move toward D (it skips 2nd and goes to 3rd) you will not have overdrive or TC lockup... I drove mine around for a good while manually shifting [it would try to start off in 3rd gear, then would 'go' when i moved the lever to 1] According to a recent thread just down the way, read it even though the title of the thread seems not related... The TPS may be a decent trial, but you 'can' test the output ( I think analog meter is preferred to see sweep and any dropoffs) otherwise look at an older thread i started..(it is about 7 pages back !) it had a LOT of tips from Ohm and tests to wiring.... Ultimately 'my' issue was the TCU, but there were a LOT of red herrings along the way... including the NSS... I do wish for you expedient repairs!

sounds like really good news. the shifting issue being fixed was an added benefit, but the inputs from the TPS are also 'part of the plan' for the TCU, mine was not as simple. good luck with the rest and enjoy the drive..