skidoo_j

it is not a standard size. it is not any npt that is readily available. see my prior post... i took it to every place that sold something that sold something with threads. it is tapered, but i don't recall the threads

I second the impossible threads. its metric pipe or????? nothing at any parts store matched, nothing at fergisuns, nothing at fastenal, and nothing at dealer. I made brass plugs and sealed both.

I'm still looking for a set of them for myself.

there are slight curved plates on the underside of the wheel well. The brackets at the cab are 3 parts on each side. here's some pics another member shot for me. 100_0977 100_0975

so you get all excited and pay their membership before looking for the car.

There maybe lots of them listed on that site, but it's old data. Trucks that sold months ago.

That about sums up my photos. The drivers rear plastic won't sit all the way down, so it's visible through the rear window. I'm hoping maybe it will relax shortly and I'll be able to get the screw in that's above the cab lights.

Got it installed today. It's good, although not perfect, its steps above what I had. The issues i had were back corner on driver side didn't fit well. and it creased on each side when locked in with clips so grab bar screws fit. I set it in place with painters tape over the Velcro so i could maneuver it easier. http://www.flickr.com/photos/skidoo_j/sets/72157632907708839/

Installed my headliner from smsheadliner before after

Got mine today. Ive got it laying out to loose the curve. How long can i wait to install it? Better to store rolled if going to be awhile?<br />

That's what I figured. They took advantage of a girl who was in a bad place.

Damn she ended up going to a mechanic. They quoted 560 over the phone to replace her radiator and upper lower hoses. I was under the impression when quoted the price included the water pump because I told them to replace it while the radiator was out. The Jeep gets dropped off and it turns out the water pump wasn't included and the mechanic tells her that a water pump is not related to the radiator so no need to replace it now as it cost the same to install later. I guess he's lucky I wasn't there. I'm pretty sure the word you DMF would have come out of my mouth as I explained to him how the radiator connect directly to the water pump and that if the radiator cracks the pump is soon to die and it's 1000 times easier to do it all at once as it only takes an extra 15-30 minutes vs pulling the radiator in 3 months to replace the water pump when it goes out. She already had paid to have the car towed to the mechanic and decided screw it just have them fix the radiator and replaces hoses at a gouging $560. Four hours later she gets a call and the water pump needs to be replaced and they want $250 to install the pump. How in the hell do they screw someone so bad. The radiator and front grill should be off and out, and it's going to take $200 in labor to replace a water pump. I went through and started pricing out everything I would have replaced if I had done it from a new serp belt, thermostat, coolant, heater hoses, upper lower hoses, new water pump and fittings, new rad cap, over bottle, tensioner for serp belt, including prices of gaskets even though most parts came with the gaskets. I mean everything I could think of for a new coolant system except for a heater core and retail on parts alone through autozone was 380. Does $500 in labor seem extreme to anyone else?? It's a 2001 jeep wrangler 4.0

Well had she not moved to Georgia that was on the plan for maintenance this spring. So now she's up a creek with out a mechanic.

I have a friend who is mechanically illiterate that just moved to Brusnwick. I walked her through changing her Oil over the phone, but today as she pulled into work her 2001 Jeep Wrangler spit coolant all over. She has not clue how or what to do. I'm hoping someone would be willing to take a look at it for her or recommend a shop that will not rip her off. She's broke, just got a part time job and desperate in need of her vehicle. Thanks

This is our point of contact. The comanche club member received a promotion in a different division. I never received a member card or anything. But Devin did all my quotes by email or you could call him directly. Great guy.

if it's totally random, you've got a short. if coming on when in 4x4 i'd say maybe vacuum is activating the switch. You could unplug the wire going to the switch under the pressure tank and see, or follow your vacuum line from there out and see if the vacuum line still goes to the back of the transfer case

I Netted about 4.75 for a rear lift, I used ruff stuff spring perches and ground the down as much as possible and used xj shackles. I'm running 4+1 metric ton leafs. What i put up front was some rusty's 305 the heavy duty ones, then got a set of jks acos to be able to level it out perfect. To get the rake i wanted i think I adjusted the front to about 4.5.

What did you do with the vacuum lines? did you reconnect any of them so that they controlled the switch? the vacuum switch is located under the pressure bottle. It looks like a blue ufo...

It means your vacuum system has activated the switch for the light. Which typically indicates that the vacuum has activated the shift collar on you passenger side disconnect, and that there is now power going to your front axle.

Should be pretty big, I've been donating indirectly through 4wd.com

4wd.com has lock rites on sale as of today. If you also search on here you can get a comanche club discount too. just have to call to order through a specific guy.

Anything that's slick. So even if it's fresh powder, if there's just a touch of ice. Once both tires (Left and right) of one axle loose traction in snow the tires will go sideways if you don't let up under power when it happens. So if you are driving under control it's manageable but I use 2 wheel drive in snow if i get stuck then will put in 4 and take right out. The rear end behaves like a quad when locked except you can't lean and use your body to control the slide. Before I put the no slip in the front I could actually drive in four wheel in snow with little to no problems. Again only referring to on road concerns as the road is crowned and there are other people you can hurt. If you're off road and don't care about your rig bomb it.

Being as this is going in the front end I'd recommend leaving it an open diff if it's going to be a daily driver. I put the richmond no-slip in my front end. I still have the CAD with a posi loc, and i'm about 50/50 if I'd do it again. Now it is completely transparent in 2x4 with the posi-loc disengaged. I've never ran it on the street with the posi engaged and in 2x4. People claim they've had no problems running them in jeeps with solid passenger axles, however IIRC all three manufactures state and advise against running it in the front with out free hubs or CAD or some sort. With mine as a daily driver I debate on pulling the lock rite out of the rear. It's a b*@$£ on my tires. Now it does make the truck a tank. All four spinning is nice in a scenario when it's needed. When in 4x4 with posi engaged the turning radius is about 1/3. Even if you take it out of 4x4, if that locker up front is locked turning around is a b*@$£. If I were personally to do it again, I would get a terra 2-low for my transfercase, get a solid passenger axle, and get a select locker up front and either a select locker in rear or a truetrac. (I guess this is what i plan to do, but $ just seems to not fall from the trees)

How strong of winds are we talking? A gable vent would serve this purpose as long as it's an unfinished ceiling in the garage. You could get one of the closeable type gables too. if you want to try the wings, you could get like a brake drum from a diesel do some fabing for a bracket and you could use a board and screw it to the drum. this way you could turn it to find the best position. If we're talking really high winds just a 2x4 tied back to the structure at the top would work.

Is the roll up door the only access to the shop? you had/have a way to break the vacuum created by the wind IE opening a west side door/window before you open the garage door the dirt intake would be minimized. It's like a car's air draft, you could at a vertical spoiler on the walls and mess with the angle length and distance off the building. What it would allow you to do is control where the accumulation occurs. Maybe allowing you to prevent it from happening.